Matt_Colie wrote:
Riven,
Most reputable places have "Torque Bars" that they use with the air wrench to set lugnuts. These control the final torque. I can't answer for CW.
You can probably get one on Craig's list or at Hazard Fright on sale. But, if it is a click type, it will out of calibration. If you can find a bending beam type, they have less resolution (you don't really need much) but they cannot loose calibration.
Matt - the automotive lab refugee
Hmmmmm ....... an automotive lab
refugee!Disagree!..:(
Especially with your first paragraph!
Any shop using an air wrench to set torque on lug nuts -for sure-
has (recent) former Taco Bell employees doing the work!
"Your lug nuts require xxx pounds of torque - my air wrench is set for that."
Yeah right!
EVERY reputable tire shop should *only* use an air wrench (on lugs) to
*snug* the nuts.
Final tightening is done with a TQ wrench, which is most often a click type.
If a tire shop is *not* following this procedure - call an immediate halt.
Snapped (broken) or "stretched" wheel studs can result.
While *YOU* are watching for the proper wheel mounting procedure....
If you don't hear that "click" - the lug was over-tightened to begin with!
The local Costco had a standing contract with a local company to replace broken studs. No cost to the veh owner, just lost time. Finally got smart - re-training program for the former Taco Bell folks.
BTW - I have both beam and click types, check the calibration/s
for both regularly, and never have had a mis-calibrated wrench.
(Including the HF wrench I leave in my trlr)
OP - The only drawback to HF TQ wrenches is the short length - but the price is right!
If you prefer something better, Home Depot has a nice (long) 1/2 inch TQ wrench for about $85 - with warranty.
*NOT* a refugee...:W
.