Towing a RAV4

Dutch, thanks so much for the info. Everything you said took all the anxiety out of out of play.

One last question: I'm assuming you wired yours so the amber blinker lights work. If that's the case, how many diodes did you use?

Vermilye, thank you for the links.

bhooperdoski wrote:

Dutch_12078 wrote:
When I wired our RAV's for towing 4-down, I connected the diodes to the rear light wiring at the driver's side front kick panel. It took a bit of hunting and testing with my meter to find the correct wires, but they're all there. I chose to fully wire the lights so the RAV's lights work exactly the same as the separate brake and directional lights on our coach

Dutch, some questions:

1) When you say the driver's side kick panel you're talking about the plastic panel to the left of the clutch pedal, right?
2) Are there any tricks to removing the kick panel?
3) Do you remember any of the color combinations of the wiring you tied into?
4) How did you get the the flat wire into the area where you made the connections?
5) Are there any tips and/or tricks or anything else you can add to make the job less painful?

Thanks.

1) Yes, that's the panel. It also helped to remove the plastic sill cover on the driver's side to get a little more slack in the wires while sorting them out.

2) On our 2002 and 2011 RAV's, the kick panel is held in place by a stamped cap nut at the firewall end, and once that's removed the panel just snaps out at the other end. The sill cover just snaps off by pulling it straight up. I'd expect your '98 to be similar.

3), Sorry, but no I didn't note the colors, and as I recall, they differed from 2002 to 2011, so I'm not sure if your '98 would be the same or not. On both of our RAV's the tail/brake light assemblies are accessible through small rear storage compartments on each side, so you may be able to figure out the colors going to each bulb there.

4) My tow wiring harness is made up of individual wires, so I was able to feed them through a new hole I punched in the existing large rubber firewall grommet with a screw driver. I used a piece of mechanics wire as a fish wire to pull each one through. You may be able to do the same by separating the individual wires in the flat bundle. The ground wire of course, just need to be attached to body sheet metal anywhere it's convenient.

5) I've included any tips I could think of above. Ask away if you think of anything else I might be able to help with.

I don't know how Harbor Freight's LED toad lights are, the incandescent ones have two major faults:

1. The wire is so skimpy that the bulbs "glow" more than "light"

2. The magnets are so weak they won't hold the lights in place if directly exposed to the wind the towing creates.

I had a set that didn't last one trip. One fell off and disappeared somewhere on the road. Only a 70 mile trip. The HF clerk objected to the return because "there's only one light" - DOH! They gave me a gift card.

vermilye wrote:
I have no idea how the side panels of a 1998 RAV4 compare to a 2008, but this page describes the process of installing the "Trailer Wire Harness". This is for setting up a RAV4 to tow, not for being towed, but is does describe how to remove the panels to get from front to back.

I ran this, along with a charge line & brake controller line using information from this page setting up my 2010 RAV4 for towing my 17' Escape trailer. Took most of a day to make the run.

on my highlander's kick panel, it was a tight squeeze getting the box behind there. it pushed the panel out a bit and the pedal for the brake would brush it and sort of hang up.
bumpy

I have no idea how the side panels of a 1998 RAV4 compare to a 2008, but this page describes the process of installing the "Trailer Wire Harness". This is for setting up a RAV4 to tow, not for being towed, but is does describe how to remove the panels to get from front to back.

I ran this, along with a charge line & brake controller line using information from this page setting up my 2010 RAV4 for towing my 17' Escape trailer. Took most of a day to make the run.

Dutch_12078 wrote:
The wiring kit you linked to is intended for hooking up a trailer to your RAV, and will not work the other way around. The 4 lights to 2 lights adapter will not work in reverse unless it's different from the one I have for my utility trailer that's towed by my 2002 RAV4. When I wired our RAV's for towing 4-down, I connected the diodes to the rear light wiring at the driver's side front lick panel. It took a bit of hunting and testing with my meter to find the correct wires, but they're all there. I chose to fully wire the lights so the RAV's lights work exactly the same as the separate brake and directional lights on our coach. When we bought our current 2011 RAV4, i did exactly the same installation again. It saved running wires all the way to the back.

Dutch, some questions:

1) When you say the driver's side kick panel you're talking about the plastic panel to the left of the clutch pedal, right?
2) Are there any tricks to removing the kick panel?
3) Do you remember any of the color combinations of the wiring you tied into?
4) How did you get the the flat wire into the area where you made the connections?
5) Are there any tips and/or tricks or anything else you can add to make the job less painful?

Thanks.

I will sell you a set of magnetic lights for 7.50 + shipping. I used them on my old toad, but used diodes on my new truck so I could just plug in.

If interested, email me mtgreenlee76@msn.com

The Fatman wrote:
$23.00 at Wal-Mart magnetic towing lights with 4 pin hook up keeps it simple

x2, or from Harbor Freight a little cheaper.
bumpy

Dutch_12078 wrote:
The wiring kit you linked to is intended for hooking up a trailer to your RAV, and will not work the other way around. The 4 lights to 2 lights adapter will not work in reverse unless it's different from the one I have for my utility trailer that's towed by my 2002 RAV4. When I wired our RAV's for towing 4-down, I connected the diodes to the rear light wiring at the driver's side front lick panel. It took a bit of hunting and testing with my meter to find the correct wires, but they're all there. I chose to fully wire the lights so the RAV's lights work exactly the same as the separate brake and directional lights on our coach. When we bought our current 2011 RAV4, i did exactly the same installation again. It saved running wires all the way to the back.

First, Fatman, I don't want to do that.

Dutch, I like what you're saying. I'll try to get back to replying to your post tomorrowing morning because I need more information.

The wiring kit you linked to is intended for hooking up a trailer to your RAV, and will not work the other way around. The 4 lights to 2 lights adapter will not work in reverse unless it's different from the one I have for my utility trailer that's towed by my 2002 RAV4. When I wired our RAV's for towing 4-down, I connected the diodes to the rear light wiring at the driver's side front lick panel. It took a bit of hunting and testing with my meter to find the correct wires, but they're all there. I chose to fully wire the lights so the RAV's lights work exactly the same as the separate brake and directional lights on our coach. When we bought our current 2011 RAV4, i did exactly the same installation again. It saved running wires all the way to the back.