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adamrwinters's avatar
adamrwinters
Explorer
Jan 18, 2015

Towing Capacity

So I was hoping to get some opinions from some folks who have real life experience with towing travel trailers. I am a newbie and have been doing lots of research about towing capacity so when I purchase a travel trailer I am towing safely. So below are the details of the tow vehicle and trailer I am interested in. I would like to know what experience people think of the setup, ie: safe, too much weight, etc. Thanks for the input!

TOW VEHICLE: GVWR 7200 GCVWR 14000 MANUFACTURER TOW CAP 8300
FULLY LOADED TOW VEHICLE(people, cargo, gas, etc.) 6500

TRAILER: GVWR 7500 DRY WEIGHT 5800 FULLY LOADED (cargo, propane, etc.) 6500 LOADED TOUNGE WEIGHT 645

So this information calculates to a GCVWR of 12,850 (92% of max limit) and a GVWR of 7,045 (98% of max limit). I do plan on using a weight distribution set up with sway bars. I did add that weight (actual equipment) to the tongue weight, however not sure how much weight that will offset from the tow vehicle...I am assuming that the 98% GVWR will decrease a little due to that. So I would love to hear what people think about the setup. I know I am pushing near the max ratings, but how will this affect that actual towing? Unsafe? Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks!
  • Some of the numbers don't look right.

    645 lb tongue weight seems too low for 6500 lb loaded trailer. Tongue weight under ten percent, could create sway issues.

    Average tongue weight being twelve percent, would equal about 800 lbs tongue weight.

    Weight of WD hitch (about 100 lbs) must be added to cargo weight. Add that weight and the available payload is less than the tongue weight. Once the combo is all hooked up and run across the scales, I think payload and GVWR will be exceeded. If you're not over, you'll be so close, you will worry about anything or anybody loading up unplanned for, as it / they will put you over. I've been there, it kept mother in law from riding along, and she didn't like getting on the scale.

    I can tell you from experience, towing that close to max (and possibly a bit over) weight ratings, can be very unpleasant. Prior to traveling, you'll need to watch weather reports, morning, noon, and night. If the reports call for any kind of head winds or cross wind, plan on back aches, neck aches, white knuckles, and cramps in arms and legs. The pains will subside in 36 - 48 hours. Just in time to head home from a weekend camp out. Hopefully you will have the flexibility to travel, only when the winds are with you.

    I think you should look at lighter trailers.
  • adamrwinters wrote:
    FULLY LOADED TOW VEHICLE(people, cargo, gas, etc.) 6500

    What do you estimate was the weight of "cargo" plus "etc." when you weighed the truck?

    Any load which can be carried in the TT rather than in the TV will reduce the load on the TV.
    For example, if you shifted 400# of cargo to the TT, the TT's tongue weight would increase only by about 13% of 400#.
    The net reduction in load on the TV would be about 348#.

    Also, a properly sized and properly adjusted WDH can cause a load equal to about 25% of the tongue weight to be transferred to the TT's axles.
    So, a loaded tongue weight of 1000# would only add about 750# to the TV when WD was applied.

    However, you must keep in mind that the weight of the WDH (80-100#) must be included in the TV's "cargo".

    These adjustments might not keep you from exceeding the TV's GVWR with a 7500# TT.
    But, they might help to keep you under GVWR when considering a lighter TT.

    Ron
  • Towing a #7500 DRY TT with a #7200 GVWR 1/2 truck is not going to be fun, no matter what the numbers say.. ;)

    Just cause the "tow rating" of that #7200 GVWR truck is over #8000 has no bearing on a travel trailer... That's NOT what the truck towing rating is considering.. ;)

    I wouldn't tow that weight trailer with my #7700 GVWR MAX TOW equipped F150... My truck has a "tow rating" of over #11,000 too... ;)

    I'd tow a #7500 "wet" trailer all day long with my truck.. :)

    Right now, I'm towing a #5000 "wet" trailer and it's a dream to tow! :)

    Towed the same trailer with a 97 F150, but it only had #6250 GVWR and I was over that, but it still did well..

    But, I've been towing trailers of all sorts of configurations and combos for over 35 years (I'm only 51), so I have some "experience" to look back on... Some of those combos was maxed out on the truck and I was lucky to get to my destination! Other's I went coast to coast with and enjoyed the whole trip. (work related, so it was 14 hour days driving by myself!)

    Now that I only tow a TT to "relax", I like towing a rig that does not stress me out and wish I was off the road... With my current combo, the road trip usually ends too soon! I love towing with a rig that I don't have to stress about... :)

    Good luck with whatever you get!

    Mitch
  • TOW VEHICLE: GVWR 7200 GCVWR 14000 MANUFACTURER TOW CAP 8300
    FULLY LOADED TOW VEHICLE(people, cargo, gas, etc.) 6500

    TRAILER: GVWR 7500 DRY WEIGHT 5800 FULLY LOADED (cargo, propane, etc.) 6500 LOADED TOUNGE WEIGHT 645


    From the figures you're giving above, you only have 700 lbs of payload left (7200 - 6500). Typically, a 7500 lb trailer "could" have up to 1125 lbs of tongue weight (7500 x .15). Even using your "estimate" of 6500 lbs, you "could" have 975 lbs of tongue weight.

    Realistically speaking, 13% would probably be closer to the actual percentage and would therefore be 6500 x .13 = 845 lbs.

    However, you are showing less than 10%....and that ain't good. Light tongue weights will almost always result in trailer sway. If that is the mfg'ers listed "dry" tongue weight, you most certainly will have a lot more than that once loaded.

    So, you are over your truck's payload capacity using any of the above percentages. As previously mentioned in an above post, forget the towing capacity and dry weights...for the most part, they are useless figures.

    Speaking for myself, I would look for a much smaller (lighter) trailer.

    Ron
  • You have one of the smaller half tons with that 3,825 RGAWR and most likely will
    be your limiting factor, or weakest link

    Choices:
    • Load lightly for both TV & TT...hope with crossed fingers
    • Get a bigger TV
    • Get a smaller TT


    Why said using your numbers...the only way to truly know is to weigh it and if
    not possible, then use their maximums. Especially the trailers to work it backwards
    to the TV

    A lot depends on how you load, how big your family is (the stand used by all
    OEMs is the insurance actuary's 150lb person for each seat belt), etc, etc

    Guessing has the risk of guessing wrong and then break down sooner than later
    somewhere out in the boonies with a spouse mad as a wet hen yelling you for
    making that risk management decision (AKA gambling)

    Note that my 8.6K GVWR has a RGAWR of 6,000 lbs. Your 7.2K GVWR has
    a RGAWR of 3,825 lbs...+2K less than my 3/4 ton truck. That is where
    most of the weight (no matter fiver or tongued) goes when towing

    Here is that simple formula in graphical form:

    Finding Towing Capacity
    Below quote and diagram from the above thread

    BenK wrote:
    Agree with most of the advice given and add

    The below diagram will help you understand, decipher the HOW2 figure it
    out to do the simple math towards finding your actual rating numbers

    First, here is the diagram of how the ratings system looks like in a
    graphical form. Hope you can see that if you go over any *ONE* rating,
    that the rest of the system can be within, but that one overage becomes
    the weak link....limiting factor

    howmuchcanitow howmuchshoulditow


    You also need to load and weigh your TV as suggested. That is the basis
    for all in this scheme

    On that, you need to decide for yourself whether you believe in the
    ratings system or not

    If not, then all of this is academic and do whatever you wish, but know
    that you then have taken all the OEMs off the warranty and liability
    hook. You will now own both warranty and liability

    If yes, then read up, ask questions to learn HOW2


    This is an old chart that shows how GM's tow ratings looked like back
    in 2001 or whenever they printed these documents

    NOTE that there are BILLIONS of bucks behind it, but so many...most
    people take any individual number as an absolute. Meaning that there
    are other factors...and most of that is embedded in the fine print
    Not just this OEM, but *ALL* OEM's do this, as that is the only way
    they can compete for your dollars.

    GCWRchart

    Do wish the OEMs would have continued to publish charts like the above
    As today's info is much tougher to find...many times wonder if it is
    so well organized today... Personal opinion...the OEMs no longer have
    marketing folks who understand towing heavy anymore. Plus their demographics
    surveys no longer show 'enough' buyers towing heavy...so an almost lost
    art in building TVs for heavy towing

    Also note that was back then and now things have changed. Mainly in
    the sciences embedded (design, engineering, process, material, etc)
    have gotten better. Mine is a GMT400 series truck. The above GCWR
    chart is for a GMT800 series truck, yours is a GMT800 series truck

    Too many will only see the three variables listed on that chart
    • Transmission type
    • Engine type & size
    • Differential ratio


    But there are many more attributes (factors) embedded that are NOT
    clearly shown that folks are ignorant of, ignore or don't care to
    consider. Somewhere else in the OEMs documentation will be reference
    to the basis for all ratings...'curb' and one driver...that one driver
    is the proverbial 150lb person from insurance actuary tables from
    decades ago... A PS on that 150lb person...boating industry (Coast
    Guard driven) has changed that to define that person as a 180lb person now

    The door label referenced by others is the ratings for 'your' vehicle
    Here is mine, a 1996 Suburban.
    mydoorlabel



    So, after you have weighed your fully loaded and ready to go camping TV

    Plug that weight into the diagram

    Then find the actual weights of the trailer you are considering. If no
    actual, then use it's max rated weight (GVWR) and use that with the
    percentage tongue/PIN weight of the 'dry' trailer. That will give you
    the trailer's GVWR tongue/PIN weight

    The GCWR will then be the bottom line comparison for your risk management
    decision (AKA gamble) on how much design margin you wish to have (AKA safety factor)
  • Thanks for the reply. The only number I can actually verify was that my truck fully loaded is at 6500. I know my rear weight rating is 3825 but do not know the actual rear weight when loaded. I know my best bet would be to have my fully loaded truck and trailer and actually weigh it but don't think that will be an option. I used an estimate of 6500 for the trailer loaded by adding estimated cargo weight in trailer (620#) to the dry weight. The max GVWR for the trailer is 7500. If I used that with the known 6500 of my truck would put me at 14000 combined, but I'm positive that would put my weight over the trucks GVWR. I just don't believe the 7500 is realistic, that would be placing approximately 1620# of weight in the trailer.
  • Welcome to the forum !

    With your numbers:

    14,000 GCWR - 6,500 actual TT weight = 7,500 is the max your TV can
    weigh using those numbers

    If you load up that trailer to it's max rating of 7,500...this is how
    much your TV can actually weigh fully loaded
    14,000 - 7,500 = 6,500

    Forget about 'dry' and 'MTWR' (your tow cap)...they are marketing numbers
    derived from a stripper model (AKA...curb). Unless you own a stripper,
    they do NOT apply to you

    6,500 actual weight of the TT and a 645 tongue is not good. Tongue
    weight should be about 13% or 12%-15% of the actual weight. I prefer
    closer to 15% if your TV's RGAWR has the capacity, but most half ton
    like yours has an approx 4,000 RGAWR

    Best to load up your TV ready to go camping and then actually weigh
    your TV, axle by axle. Then do the simple math

    Ditto the trailer, but if you haven't purchased it yet, then I suggest
    using it's GVWR as that is the heaviest it is rated for

    Post back your actual weight numbers and F/R GAWR for further assistance

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