Towing Jeep Wrangler

I didn't say it in my previous post but i run GRADE 70 safety change w/ clevis hooks (so the hooks are closed & can't jump or rattle off).

I attach the safety chains in TWO location on the jeep (again both location use clevis hooks).
one of the chain attachment points is the baseplates (bolted to the jeep frame) the other chain attach point is on the base plate adapters....its over kill, just like the grade 70 chains...but better safe than sorry imo.

Thanks for the info. I think I'll try this one.

my baseplates bolt thru the frame behind the bumper - i don't see how anyone could tear the bolts out of the frame.....with TWO bolts (thru the frame) on each base plate PLUS there is a 3rd bolt further up front (iirc if it goes thru the frame, but theres no bumper per se so it must).....thats SIX bolts for the base plates alone.

Ive towed my jeep over 20k miles and i inspect the frame bolts regularly - I've got not one single sign of wear or movement period.

i did modify the MOPAR factory tow vehicle harness - they have it coming out near the grill at the top of the bumper, the mopar cable (from coach to jeep) was also too short, so i built my own cable & placed a plug on the drivers side (same side has the plug on the coach.

I also run TWO cameras on my coach - one at the top (so i can see over the jeep) and one at the hitch (so i can see the entire hitch, all the pins and baseplate connections.

terryb149 wrote:
I'm thinking about buying a 2014 Jeep Wrangler for towing behind my motorhome. I have the part of a blue ox towing system that goes on the motorhome. Is there anyway to use that to tow the Wrangler without having to purchase the part that goes on the vehicle? The wrangler has two tow hooks mounted to the front bumper and I would like to use those instead of having to purchase the regular part for the car and have to pay to have it installed.
Thanks all.

Hey, OP... Somewhere I saw a baseplate that bolted directly to the front of the bumper where the two "humps" are. Behind them are four bolts. You have to cut away the very front of those humps and replace the bolts with longer ones. It was real slick looking and easy to do and less expensive than conventional baseplates. Maybe somebody here can help.

Moved from class A forum

Tom/Barb wrote:

Jim & Betty wrote:

My thoughts are that you did not have the base plates mounted proper.
JimR

I bought the jeep with them mounted IAW the manufacturers directions.

With the long over hang of the Newmar, you can exceed the turn radius of the jeep in tight corners, this will drag the front of the jeep sideways as the Newmar pulls out of a corner, because the jeep is still at an angle as you drive away.

The manufacturers design of both the plates and the Jeep are not strong enough to cope with this, specially when you have over sized tires and a lift kit.

OK i do have a small lift and larger tires and I do understand about the turning and the overhang. I will look at mine again in the area of the frame. As I said I have the Roadmaster mounts that attach to the frame using two bolts on the passenger side and the three bolts that hold on the power steering gear box the bolts being either a grade 5 or 8. I do re torque them at about 3000 miles and do inspect when I do the oil change. Question is the frame on the 2007 different that the 1999 as it seems the frame is very strong.
I guess we got away from the OP post.


JimR

Tom/Barb wrote:

93mastercraft wrote:
Here, this is what you need. My Ready Brute Elite Tow bar and being able to pull my Jeep Wrangler is the best thing about my Palazzo. Really it is the only best thing. Here ya go..

Turn it too short, and that vertical "U" channel with the two bolts will separate from the frame above. BTDT

Show me a picture of one this happened to. :) OBTW, These are bolted to the cross member too. These are the heavy duty MX plates, not the cheaper base plates. Never heard or seen that happen. I don't think I could even turn a 35ft Coach sharp enough to "slide" the front end of the short wheel base 2 door jeep wrangler around anyway. The Ready Brute tow bar has a different pivot point. I could most certainly see where a solid tow bar would have issues. I have stopped in a pretty tight turn to see what the jeep would do. The wheel turn and steering wheel were not even at a full lock turn.

okay, so I read back through all your posts and I cannot find where you talked about your "tow hooks" tearing out and you making your own except in this tread. I see where you replied to another thread on getting a go pro camera and seeing what is going on. I have one and you have most certainly sparked my curiosity.

I have a 2010 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited and use the Currie Enterprises base plate made specifically for Jeep Wranglers. I was able to install it myself (I did have a little help, but it was more for safety) and it replaces the plastic fairing under the front of the Jeep and bolts to the frame.

Here is a link to the Quadratec Jeep online catalog item for the Currie Enterprises Jeep Wrangler JK Base Plate.

terryb149 wrote:
Thanks everybody for the help. I was trying to save some money, but after reading all the posts thats not the way to go. I'll be calling Blue Ox tomorrow and also checking around for a used base plate.
Since I haven't purchased the Jeep yet, I was unaware of the restrictions on the front hooks. Glad I asked before I did something dumb and endangered other people on the roads.
This is such a great forum. Thanks again everyone!

It's not so much the equipment, but the way it is used, make your corners as wide as possible. and try not to exceed the turn radius of the Jeep.

93mastercraft wrote:
Here, this is what you need. My Ready Brute Elite Tow bar and being able to pull my Jeep Wrangler is the best thing about my Palazzo. Really it is the only best thing. Here ya go..

Turn it too short, and that vertical "U" channel with the two bolts will separate from the frame above. BTDT