Hi all, new member here, apologies for the long post. Thanks in advance for your help!Buying a new-to-me camper, a Jayco Jay Feather Sport 165. It's got a GVW of 3500, the tongue weight is high because of batteries (I've been told), maybe 500-600? My TV is a 2007 Nissan Frontier Crew Cab, towing capacity is 6000 or so (then reduced a bit by the topper I have on the bed). The trailer has electric brakes and I'm going to install a Prodigy P2 brake controller. The friend I'm buying the camper from uses a weight distribution hitch rated to 600 lbs TW, with no sway control.All of this stuff is new to me, I've towed a popup before but not had any weight distribution (or any towing issues). There are so many models, with different price points, and I'm just lost. And no idea whether I need sway control too. My local RV place isn't the greatest, they're small and don't have lots of different brands and aren't always helpful, so I'm trying to learn as much as I can.Questions:How do I decide between the different brands and styles? Do I need sway control, or is it even a "want", or just a waste on a trailer this size? It's a huge trailer to me, but I know in the grand scheme it's pretty small.I'm not a very handy person, so will likely pay for install so it's done right. How much should that cost?Lastly, if there's something I'm missing, like if I'm going to overtax my TV quickly, please let me know. Also happy to hear any pointers re how this will be different than towing my popup.

Based on my experience with TTs years ago, I'd certainly get a weight distributing hitch and add sway control. If you set the sway control correctly, it will be a lot less nerve-racking when you get passed by a large truck or have side winds.

If the tounge wt. really is 600# you may be over you receiver rating without a wdh. Check the receiver for a sticker with weight carrying # and weight distributing #. Most times the vehicle can handle more tounge wt with the use of a wdh. As for sway control, with a shortish trailer you should be ok with the basic friction bar type. A standard wdh and single sway bar should be about 300$ or so for the bits and peices.

Since your TV is older it needs to have good suspension. Then 60% of the weight has to be in front of the center of the trailer axle(s).

While maybe not absolutely necessary, I think you would have a much better ride and more relaxed driving experience with the WDH and one sway bar. Another major difference in towing that and a PU is seeing around it. If you mirrors don't extend in some fashion get some type of clip on mirrors. They are cheap and easy to install.

As far as I am concerned, weight distribution and sway control are an absolute must have. Ken

Towing Newb, need some advice | Good Sam Community

campigloo
Explorer
Sep 24, 2014
Definitely get some type sway control. I have towed with friction controllers for the last 15 years, tens of thousands of miles, and have yet to remove my friction bar to back up. Neither have I broken one. The only thing I do is release the tension if I am making several tight turns in a row, such as entering or leaving a campground. The only reason I do that is to slightly extend the life of the thing.
mkirsch
Nomad II
Sep 23, 2014
Absolutely you should get sway control. ESPECIALLY on a trailer as small as that, because IMHO the smaller trailers are MORE prone to sway due to only having a single axle and two tires for lateral stability.

Here's what I mean:
This single axle trailer has a single 3500lb rated axle and will likely be pushing that 3500lb weight once loaded and ready to camp.

The next size up trailer will have TWO 3500lb rated axles and weigh 5000lbs loaded and ready to camp.

Taking tongue weight into consideration:
3000lbs per axle vs. 2100lbs per axle. Which do you think will be more stable?
Wishin
Explorer
Sep 23, 2014
If you turn too tight when backing up, it will crash and break stuff on the hitch and/or sway control. This is one reason why I prefer the Reese Dual-Cam, I can't really turn too tight for the sway control, the vehicle and trailer will crash first. I think the Equal-I-Zer is the same. Reese makes a friction based sway control as well that is integrated, although less popular and seemingly not as good as the Equal-I-Zer. I have not used either of them.

If I were you I'd try to pick up a used w/d hitch with the friction sway control for cheap and see how that works. You can always upgrade later and re-sell the stuff you have. With that small of a trailer, it seems unlikely you'd need more if it trailer has enough tongue weight and the hitch is set-up properly.

Equal-I-Zer is another good option. I love my Reese Dual Cam but they can be finicky to set-up so while they work great, I struggle to recommend them. I've had to modify how my brackets mount to the trailer frame to prevent movement and damage to the frame. Pretty annoying Reese can't come up with a good solution for this.
lurkerdan
Explorer
Sep 23, 2014
What happens if you try to back up with a sway control device (that's supposed to be disconnected)? Do you destroy it (the sway bar, the hitch, ???)? Does the trailer just act wonky, reminding you that you need to get out and loosen/remove the sway bar?
kvangil
Explorer
Sep 23, 2014
The sway control that you have to disconnect before backing in are the ones that connect separately from the hitch to a ball on the trailer frame. Of the "affordable" hitches with built-in sway control (so you don't have to disconnect anything before backing in), some common choices are:

1. Andersen No-Sway WD hitch -- relatively new design; seen mixed reviews on it, but have no personal experience.

2. Equal-I-Zer 4-point anti-sway WD Hitch -- this is the one that I use with the Pathfinder. Tows excellent; passing trucks and high winds illicit no sway at all.

3. Reese Dual-Cam: I don't have any experience with this, but the dealer told me that it was too heavy-duty for light-weight trailers and have been known to bend their frames. Not sure if there's any truth to that, but that's just what I was told...
lurkerdan
Explorer
Sep 23, 2014
jfeather wrote:
I had that exact TV. 2007 Froniter CC (great truck) and I had purchased a 2010 Jayco Jayfeather 19H. Very similar set up to yours.

Like TXiceman and kvangil mentioned I highly recommend the wdh with anti sway. Even thought this is your first TT and it's not as big as others it will still be stressful towing without the wdh. My Frontier would get pushed around quite a bit as trucks and even fast moving cars would go by. Pulling it was not a problem but as kvangil mentioned you will definetly need to hit the OD button and you will be running in the high RPMs. MPG's is greatly effected and In my opinion the V6 just wasnt enough to make me comfortable and stress free. After a year I sold the Frontier and bought an 2011 Expedition. You can do it, but I just felt like the Frontier was working too hard.

Good luck.

That's a helpful experience, thanks! I am a little worried that I will end up feeling the same, and I will laugh at myself, how the "great deal camper" cost me many thousands more, in a new car. :S

And thanks everyone, I am definitely getting a WD hitch, very likely with sway control.

So here's a question: what distinguishes one from the other? I understand that there are different styles of WD hitches, and also styles of sway control; I also know that some sway control you must (or is it just "should") remove before backing up (sway control that I must remove prior to reversing won't fly with me; the 3 year old sucks too much brain energy for me to remember all the time). But other than that, how is the $500 WD hitch with the same rating "better" than the $325 one? Does it drive better? Easier to use? Less likely to break (I hope none of them are likely to break!)?

I'm not afraid to suck it up and pay for quality; with gear sometimes, that's the smartest thing to do. But sometimes the cheaper item works just fine, and I'd rather not spend the extra if I don't have to.
jfeather
Explorer
Sep 22, 2014
I had that exact TV. 2007 Froniter CC (great truck) and I had purchased a 2010 Jayco Jayfeather 19H. Very similar set up to yours.

Like TXiceman and kvangil mentioned I highly recommend the wdh with anti sway. Even thought this is your first TT and it's not as big as others it will still be stressful towing without the wdh. My Frontier would get pushed around quite a bit as trucks and even fast moving cars would go by. Pulling it was not a problem but as kvangil mentioned you will definetly need to hit the OD button and you will be running in the high RPMs. MPG's is greatly effected and In my opinion the V6 just wasnt enough to make me comfortable and stress free. After a year I sold the Frontier and bought an 2011 Expedition. You can do it, but I just felt like the Frontier was working too hard.

Good luck.
lurkerdan
Explorer
Sep 22, 2014
Thanks for the advice, everyone. Definitely getting a WD hitch, and the extended mirrors, they were already on my list.

So, do I need sway control? Is it just something I should get and not bother with asking this question, because it can't hurt?
kvangil
Explorer
Sep 22, 2014
Regarding towing experience with this setup, you should be fine. Keep OD off so it tows in 4th. If it feels like the truck is struggling at any point, don't be afraid to shift it down to 3rd gear and let it run at 3500-4000rpms. You can expect anywhere from 7.5 to 11 mpg towing, depending on road and weather conditions, terrain, etc.
kvangil
Explorer
Sep 22, 2014
I tow a larger trailer than yours with a 2005 Pathfinder. I use a Equal-I-Zer hitch and would highly recommend it for your setup. It tows very stable, and with the built-in sway control, you don't have to worry about disconnecting the anti-sway bar when backing in to sites. When I was shopping around for installation cost, the local RV dealers all quoted between $120-150 for installation if I brought in my own hitch. Best of luck whatever you decide.

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