Towing weight limits

As mentioned, what is the hitch attached to, that would be my concern. A gas chassis, as supplied from the chassis builder, is typically not as long as the motorhome. The motorhome builder will weld frame extensions to the rear of the original chassis. These extensions are seldom as strong as the original chassis rails and obviously not a continuous solid rail.

We have a 2003 Winnebago Adventurer, 35U on a Workhorse W22 chassis. Big difference between the frame extensions and the Workhorse frame rails.

If you're planning to upgrade to a new tow bar, I would also recommend the ReadyBrute Elite, which is rated at 8,000 lbs. It also includes a supplemental braking system built into the tow bar. If you can't find anyone to install it locally, you could drive to Iola, KS. where the tow bar is manufactured to have it done. The tow bar with braking system runs about $1200.

I would not exceed the receiver hitch weight.
As far as the gross weight, I wouldn't even care,...I would tow it, as long as I could stop it safely.

M.A.Taylor wrote:
No, I was totally unaware that 5500 pounds pushing from behind would have any adverse effect at all on the overall stopping distance, that's a real shocker right there. Bet it's even worse when going downhill huh?

I'm not an idiot, Keith - check
I'm just new to RVing - check
I won't ask anymore questions here - check

Have a nice day.

You asked for advice/opinions, you got mine - straight up.
No sarcasm offered nor invited.

M.A.Taylor wrote:
We have a relatively new to us 2004 Winnebago Sightseer 35N. It's docs say that it's towing weight limits are 5000 pounds with a 350 tongue weight. What does that mean exactly?

We have a Dodge Ram 1500 that I have towed about 5000 miles already with a Blue Ox tow bar. A quick internet search says the truck weighs about 5500 pounds.

We also have a Subaru Forrester XT that has to be towed on a trailer. The trailer car combo will weigh a little over 5700 pounds.

Am I making a serious mistake towing either of these setups?? Thanks for any help you can provide.

Specs mentioned are for the hitch receiver only.
Doubt that the extra will hurt anything structurally, but have a shop inspect and maybe beef it up some.
Bigger concern is the engine and especially the tranny for overheating if too far out of specs. and this can be determined by subtracting your rigs fully loaded weight from it's rated GCWR.
Even with that being over max, the only real effect, will be on long 6% grades and more, especially in hot weather, so either disconnect or pull to the extreme right and do it in low gear, under 25mph. This will give you 25% more pulling power all around in most cases.
Just MO and if these types of overloads always spelled disaster, then you'd be hearing about them with every minute of every day.
Do have a toad braking and breakaway system installed for sure and would recommend NSA'S READYBRAKE or the complete READYBRUTE/ELITE if you don't already have tow bars. The READYSTOP breakaway is optional and doesn't come with either.

No, I was totally unaware that 5500 pounds pushing from behind would have any adverse effect at all on the overall stopping distance, that's a real shocker right there. Bet it's even worse when going downhill huh?

I'm not an idiot, Keith - check
I'm just new to RVing - check
I won't ask anymore questions here - check

Have a nice day.

Look at craigs list for used towing stuff. $1000 systems often are found for $250 or less. Biggest thing is what do you want for a brake system. Many are the PIA add a brake which means every time you want to use the truck you need to pull and store the brake system. Then when ready to tow re-install.

I use the SMI system, built in, flick a switch and its ready to go and runs off tow vehicle brake light system. There are other similar out there. Make sure you have good tow chains/cables capable of handling the truck if it should ever come loose.

here is what I mean 1 local to you other to me.

http://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/search/rva?query=brake+systems

http://tucson.craigslist.org/rvs/5069646045.html This is what I have

M.A.Taylor wrote:
No, I have not yet added a braking system to the truck, but will. The only braking system I've seen was well over $1000 but I've not done any further checking yet. What system do you use or recommend??

Just went out and looked close at the hitch, it says 5000 with a 500 pound tongue. The good news is that it appears to be bolted on so I think it can be upgraded. If that's the case I'll make that happen. Looks like it bolts on between two plate on either side and would be a simple job to change out with a stronger hitch, maybe I can do it myself?

Apart from exceeding your hitch limit by at least 10% you do realize that 5500# on the back of your MoHo will significantly increase your emergency stopping distance? With a 20,500# GVWR Motorhome, that increased distance will be close to 30%. Enough to put you in the back of a semi-trailer or the back seat of the car in front.
You may feel it's OK for normal slowing/stopping but have you tried a "pedal to the metal" emergency stop yet? Maybe you should!
Personally I think you are pushing your luck and leaving yourself wide open to a civil liability situation if you were ever involved in an accident!
- Exceeding hitch capacity - check
- No brakes on toad - check
Case closed.

I would not continue to tow either the truck or the trailer. However I would for sure weigh the truck. You may well find it weighs more than you think. The weights of many (most or all--??) Are based on the standard vehicle with out any options that are on/with the vehicle. Assume the truck is a 4x4, may have skid plates, it's own hitch, etc. These things may not be included. Also I am aware of folks that exceeded limits and were fine for awhile but eventually hitches cracked and other anomalies occurred because they were over stressed. I would not tow as you are.

M.A.Taylor wrote:


Just went out and looked close at the hitch, it says 5000 with a 500 pound tongue. The good news is that it appears to be bolted on so I think it can be upgraded. If that's the case I'll make that happen. Looks like it bolts on between two plate on either side and would be a simple job to change out with a stronger hitch, maybe I can do it myself?

Remember it isn't just about the hitch - it is also about what the hitch is bolted TO.