Trailer push, pull
I know the added vehicle weight of the 3/4 ton pickup towing a travel trailer helps to eliminate the push pull you get when being passed by a big rig. Would a heavier trailer also help with the push p...
Forum Discussion
I used to tow a 5600 lb 26' trailer with my 1996 Roadmaster Wagon. The wagon has a medium amount of wheelbase and a huge rear overhang which is probably worst case for controlling the trailer. As with many people, when I first bought this trailer, I had little knowledge about sway control. Growing up I camped but we either had a 16' trailer or a 24' fith wheel so push/pull was not something I knew much about.
I started with the hitch the trailer came with (8 years old, bought used) which was a Reese/DrawTite chain W/D hitch, trunion style, with a single friction bar. Back road and 2 lane highway test runs where the trailer was not fully loaded felt great. Our first camping trip was to a destination nearly 3 hours away and I had white knuckles within 1 mile on the interstate. I pulled off and tightened the friction bar up quite a bit. That made it bearable and I wasn't really getting pushed around, but the friction bar was so tight it would continually try to lock me in a slightly crooked position. Negotiating turns was fine, but going down a straight stretch on the interstate had me drifting back and forth slowly and constantly correcting.
Before the next trip I researched a lot and bought a Reese Dual Cam sway control and that took care of about 90% of the problem. A couple of years later I tried different tires as well. I started with after market rims with 245/60R17 Michelin Energy LX4 tires. Later I switched to 235/65VR17 Bridgestone Dueler HP Sport summer performance tires. That pretty much finished off any issues I had. I really didn't ever feel the push pull after that unless both I and the semi were hugging the line close to each other. I would still occasionally be bothered by cross winds however, but not trucks.
I would say my now bigger and heavier trailer with the 2500 Suburban is equal or better. Driving with the trailer is very comfortable. Cross winds are not much of a bother either unless really bad. Even a single car with no trailer can feel cross winds if they are blowing hard enough.
I started with the hitch the trailer came with (8 years old, bought used) which was a Reese/DrawTite chain W/D hitch, trunion style, with a single friction bar. Back road and 2 lane highway test runs where the trailer was not fully loaded felt great. Our first camping trip was to a destination nearly 3 hours away and I had white knuckles within 1 mile on the interstate. I pulled off and tightened the friction bar up quite a bit. That made it bearable and I wasn't really getting pushed around, but the friction bar was so tight it would continually try to lock me in a slightly crooked position. Negotiating turns was fine, but going down a straight stretch on the interstate had me drifting back and forth slowly and constantly correcting.
Before the next trip I researched a lot and bought a Reese Dual Cam sway control and that took care of about 90% of the problem. A couple of years later I tried different tires as well. I started with after market rims with 245/60R17 Michelin Energy LX4 tires. Later I switched to 235/65VR17 Bridgestone Dueler HP Sport summer performance tires. That pretty much finished off any issues I had. I really didn't ever feel the push pull after that unless both I and the semi were hugging the line close to each other. I would still occasionally be bothered by cross winds however, but not trucks.
I would say my now bigger and heavier trailer with the 2500 Suburban is equal or better. Driving with the trailer is very comfortable. Cross winds are not much of a bother either unless really bad. Even a single car with no trailer can feel cross winds if they are blowing hard enough.
