Transfer switch mounted in fifth wheel....?

Well I completed this project. From the gen to the switch I used regular house wire with a male plug to plug into gen, and at the switch used a jumper wire from one hot connection to the other in order to provide current (a hot) to both sides of switch.
Do I get a pass from my Trailer life inspector friends?

ivbinconned wrote:
What I managed to get was. “Reliance manual 60 amp.

That looks like it just switches the hots and may not be best for an RV with 120v generator.

Consider something like this:

http://www.bestconverter.com/Progressive-Dynamics-PD52V-240-Volt-50-Amp-Transfer-Switch

Utility is direct connect L1,L2,N,G to corresponding input terminals
Generator will have the hot connected to L1 & L2 of the second input and neutral and ground to corresponding input terminals.

Output goes to your main breaker panel feed.

Item will include wiring diagram. This switch is automatic so it can be mounted tucked away with minimal access.

ivbinconned wrote:
It is my understanding that with the 50 amp wiring in the RV the two hots are split to different circuits. When we use the adapters to plug into a normal wall plug it must split in order to feed both.
If this is how that works would it not be better at minimum put in a 30 amp plug for the gen?

RV is wired exactly the same as your home and regulated by NEC.

No need to have a 30 amp connection to a 16 amp generator. Will not hurt either.

The size of the inlet for power from the generator (and also the wire going to the transfer switch) would mainly depend on how big a generator you think you might want to hook up at some point. If you'll never have anything more than a 2 kVA generator, then a 30A inlet would be wasted.

Assuming there aren't tight cost constraints, I would at the least wire with 8 gauge 3 conductor + ground wire which is sufficient for a 40A 120/240V connection (9.6 kVA). The inlet can be smaller and relatively easily upgraded if need be. Rather obviously you should not have an inlet rated for more current than the wiring can handle, but having one with a lower rating is okay.

It is my understanding that with the 50 amp wiring in the RV the two hots are split to different circuits. When we use the adapters to plug into a normal wall plug it must split in order to feed both.
If this is how that works would it not be better at minimum put in a 30 amp plug for the gen?

What I managed to get was. “Reliance manual 60 amp.

If you have a 50 amp RV you need a 50 amp switch. Or a 30 amp switch for a 30 amp RV.

Connection to the generator should match the generator output. I would use a standard plug and #12 wire for a 2000w generator.

Where's the breaker panel? Your shore line runs to that breaker panel, and if it's midway or forward in the coach, you are in luck. Otherwise, you'll run a bit more wire, but 120VAC 30 amp doesn't require wiring heaver than 10 gauge unless you are covering distances much longer than you have.
You can disconnect the shore power cord, (Is it unplugged?) then patch to 10 gauge wiring on forward to your generator location. Tie to the NC (Normally Closed) inputs on the transfer switch. Run new 10 gauge from the output terminals back to the breaker panel.
For the generator input, add an input jack similar to the marineco setup & tie it to the NO (Normally open) input terminals.

30 amp twist lock:



Or 15/20 amp:



Run your patch cord from the generator to the input jack.

I'd do all hard wiring with 10 gauge, and the patch cord can be 12 gauge from the generator. I take it your plan is to create a patch cord that plugs into one of the 15 amp or 20 amp receptacles.

Sounds like a fun project!