Travel trailer in snow- Break controler setting
If you don't have chains, and you get caught in the snow, is it better to lower your brake control setting? I would think you would want less breaking in the rear if there is snow on the road.
Forum Discussion
IMHO...a bit clarification on how a P2/P3 works...vs IBC
First, if you are worried about slippery conditions enough to consider
dropping the settings...you are going too fast, following too close
and are at the point where you should consider chains on BOTH TV & trailer
Chains should go on the REAR axle on rear wheel drive vehicles and on
the front of front wheel drive (not a good place but the only choice)
A P2/P3 is an inertia based controller. Meaning it will sense deceleration
and then meter out power to the trailer brakes according to how fast
you are decelerating or not
Then there is a 'boost' function, which is a preset level of power
dialed in by the driver. This is the min level of power the controller
will send to the trail when the brake pedal switch is initiated
On many vehicles, the brake pedal switch will initiate BEFORE there is
any TV MC Hydraulic PSI developed....meaning that a P2/P3 can be braking
the trailer BEFORE an IBC...unless that IBC has a boost function
As the TV/Trailer slows down...the P2/P3 will continue to supply power
to the trailer and increasing if the rate of deceleration continues
With a IBC, the only way the trailer will get more power is for the
driver to increase the brake pedal pressure, which will increase the
MC's PSI
Back on driving in slippery conditions...first is slow down second
is to leave extra braking room to the vehicle in front
Snow or MX tires a must if this is going to be a regular occurrence.
More aggressive treads if going to be severe conditions, but the
down side is noise and lower tread life
I have chains for all of my vehicles, except for the Odyssey, which
are cables. Re-enforced chains are the only kind I'll purchase, but
they need plenty of wheel well room
Also, do NOT buy the rubber band tensioner's. I like steel coiled
springs, but again they need lots of wheel well room
Each of my vehicles has a 5 gallon plastic bucket holding my chain kit
Chains, length of plastic hall runner or an old rubber matt to kneel
on. Gloves (both vinyl and thick mechanics) . Tie wraps. Can of WD40. etc
The lid is one of those that is turns the bucket into a short stool
to sit on.
Plastic bag to keep the 'stuff' from the chains, as the chains going
back in are dirty with mud, slush, etc
First, if you are worried about slippery conditions enough to consider
dropping the settings...you are going too fast, following too close
and are at the point where you should consider chains on BOTH TV & trailer
Chains should go on the REAR axle on rear wheel drive vehicles and on
the front of front wheel drive (not a good place but the only choice)
A P2/P3 is an inertia based controller. Meaning it will sense deceleration
and then meter out power to the trailer brakes according to how fast
you are decelerating or not
Then there is a 'boost' function, which is a preset level of power
dialed in by the driver. This is the min level of power the controller
will send to the trail when the brake pedal switch is initiated
On many vehicles, the brake pedal switch will initiate BEFORE there is
any TV MC Hydraulic PSI developed....meaning that a P2/P3 can be braking
the trailer BEFORE an IBC...unless that IBC has a boost function
As the TV/Trailer slows down...the P2/P3 will continue to supply power
to the trailer and increasing if the rate of deceleration continues
With a IBC, the only way the trailer will get more power is for the
driver to increase the brake pedal pressure, which will increase the
MC's PSI
Back on driving in slippery conditions...first is slow down second
is to leave extra braking room to the vehicle in front
Snow or MX tires a must if this is going to be a regular occurrence.
More aggressive treads if going to be severe conditions, but the
down side is noise and lower tread life
I have chains for all of my vehicles, except for the Odyssey, which
are cables. Re-enforced chains are the only kind I'll purchase, but
they need plenty of wheel well room
Also, do NOT buy the rubber band tensioner's. I like steel coiled
springs, but again they need lots of wheel well room
Each of my vehicles has a 5 gallon plastic bucket holding my chain kit
Chains, length of plastic hall runner or an old rubber matt to kneel
on. Gloves (both vinyl and thick mechanics) . Tie wraps. Can of WD40. etc
The lid is one of those that is turns the bucket into a short stool
to sit on.
Plastic bag to keep the 'stuff' from the chains, as the chains going
back in are dirty with mud, slush, etc
