unknown gray caulk of doom

I have encountered thus far 4 different types of caulking. mineral spirits mixed with paint thinner has been working with steel wool, except for the silicone. for that, I'm using a wire brush on a power drill! its messing up the paint nicely, but id rather have it warm and dry and ugly then semi pretty and leaky. thanks so much! the roof still has to come down, but looking at it they only used leveling sealant on it thanks goodness, so mineral spirits should be all I need. the roof is one giant sheet of aluminum, with cut outs for the vents and such.

theoldwizard1 wrote:
Butyl stays flexible and usually comes off easily.

You're thinking of butyl bedding tape, which is kind of like plumber's putty. It sounds like the OP is dealing with butyl caulk, which is very, very sticky, gets rubbery when it dries, and is next to impossible to remove.

Mako,
Ya, taking breaks from sealing projects is a good thing. When I restored my roof, I did it over many days of work with breaks as I deemed necessary. FWIW, I had many areas of different sealers to remove including a gallon of asphaltic roofing tar. After using Eternabond tapes over everything, I don't have any leaks.

I'd suggest to see what your present converter does and then reason if that will work with your intended battery system. Some renovators install new batteries and the old converter isn't up to maintaining them well. This is observed by using a meter and measuring the output of the converter along with the state of charge of the batteries. If you are thinking of installing 2 6V batteries and use only the converter to charge them, replacement of the converter is best. These older converters won't supply the higher voltages those batteries need, a new PD converter will supply that voltage.

Having said the above, here's my situation----I have five batteries in two banks. They are charged by a solar panel. I kept the original PD 808 converter with added battery charge circuit (a 1971 innovation) to offer battery charging in an emergency situation. I know the old ('71) converter only outputs 30 amps at 13.6V but it will get me by until the sun shines or I arrive home where larger chargers are available. I also travel with a stand-alone battery charger since I'm dependent on the 12V system for refrigeration and entertainment devices when not on a shore cord. There are different solutions for different uses.

I would replace the converter, even if it's working perfectly. There have been substantial improvements in them over the years in terms of charge rate and the cleanness of the power output for 12V loads. My first choice would probably be a PD9245 or 9260, though there are others that are also good. The new ones are somewhat more efficient (i.e. they run cooler), but that's not the main concern for me.

The one you show has two separate outputs: an "unfiltered" converter output for most loads, which is not very clean at all, and an automatic battery charger circuit that provides a few amps of charging current. There's a relay to connect the loads on the "unfiltered" side to the battery when the converter is inactive and isolate them when its active. Modern converters have a single output that provides both power to the loads and charges the battery. If you'll be charging the batteries using a generator, the modern converter will reduce the time required to do so dramatically, from days to a couple or few hours.

ncrowley wrote:
It sounds like JB Weld. If it is, it can only be removed by filing or grinding, or with a torch with a low flame.

CONCUR !
Butyl stays flexible and usually comes off easily.

The only other thing I know that is gray and tough as nails is an epoxy called MarineTex. Grinding is the only way to remove it.

so I'm taking a break today from caulk, and just filled the dumpster and cleaned everything up. there is plenty to do while I figure out how I plan to remove it completely. If I have to, I will strip it off with the most corrosive stuff I can find and just repaint, I have too much else to do to focus so much on caulking! I will use proflex on everything possible, and the next best thing for everything I can't use it on. these days, is it worth switching out he old 40w converter into a newer 50w model? are they more efficient? my budget, while it absolutely is a thing, isn't a huge issue. I've already paid for almost everything I need, and still have some leftover to spare. the picture is of the old one.

I find that an oscillating tool with special caulk removing blade (flexible/thin) allows you to safely remove caulk. They have dropped in price over the years and it's worth a look.

It sounds like JB Weld. If it is, it can only be removed by filing or grinding, or with a torch with a low flame.

blownstang01 wrote:
Sounds like Butyl it basically never hardens and is a nitemare to completely remove. Great stuff if used under compression. I know this doesn't help you remove it, but I feel your pain.

+1 on the butyl. Regular paint thinner or a heat gun will help, but you're in for some quality time with a putty knife.

Sounds like Butyl it basically never hardens and is a nitemare to completely remove. Great stuff if used under compression. I know this doesn't help you remove it, but I feel your pain.