unnecessary idleing

Sez Hoo! wrote:

Greentow wrote:
40 years driving oil burners, all types, and many different makes. Cummins, Cat, International,GM. Diesel's need enough time to get OIL PRESSURE to a standard, AIR PRESSURE to a minimum (if so equipped), and then roll. Here's a question for those who believe 5-30 minutes of idle time is needed... Should I idle my fire truck until operating temperature is reached, or the same with my ambulance????? I think not. There is no difference in the engines, just more stuff on my emergency vehicles. Think about that the next time you fire up your diesel. OH, and mine costs a minimum of $500,000 to replace

And when ever your fire truck or ambulance should break down, does the money come out of your pocket for repairs or is someone else writing the check, like the taxpayers? If the people parked next to me want peace and quiet even after the usual quiet time 11pm to 7 or 8am then maybe they should find some other place to park. Its my engine its my money that will be used to fix it so I'll do what I feel is necessary. I spent my life in the Coast Guard around all kinds of Diesel engines, Cat, Detroit, Alco and Cooper Bessmer. And not once was it acceptable(unless in an emergency) to start the engine wait until the water temps gauge starts to move then put it on line. I even checked out my warm up procedure with a tech with a degree in diesel engines and he agrees with what I'm doing. So its gonna be business as usual.

et2 wrote:
When the campground rules says no engine idling I would take note. No campground I've been to has ever done so.Nor are there rules against a lot of all the other things people complain about. So if the campground doesn't complain I'm good as far as I'm concerned.

fj12ryder wrote:
All the "wait until the temp needle moves" is just CYA for the "not the sharpest crayons in the box" people. If it isn't in there "those people" will start up and hit full throttle within seconds. Then they will complain "There wasn't anything that said I couldn't use full throttle immediately". The admonition to wait for the temp needle to move now ensures that "those people" will have to wait a few minutes.

The rest of us realize that taking it slow for the first few minutes will accomplish the same thing as idling for 10-15 minutes.

et2 wrote:

fj12ryder wrote:
All the "wait until the temp needle moves" is just CYA for the "not the sharpest crayons in the box" people. If it isn't in there "those people" will start up and hit full throttle within seconds. Then they will complain "There wasn't anything that said I couldn't use full throttle immediately". The admonition to wait for the temp needle to move now ensures that "those people" will have to wait a few minutes.

The rest of us realize that taking it slow for the first few minutes will accomplish the same thing as idling for 10-15 minutes.

Wow, you sure are full of yourself now aren't you. Maybe you could start a RVing course or something since you think you've it all figured out. Those staying next to you must feel so blessed with your RVing expertise. We should all feel so lucky.

Sez Hoo! wrote:

JaxDad wrote:
Don't take this the wrong way friend, but if you're idling your cold engine 20 - 30 minutes every time you start off, you're definitely doing more harm than good.

Care to explain? In 20-30 min my engine is close to its operating temp. How could I be doing more harm than good. I would much rather idle it up to temp than work/force it to temp.

Wet-Stacking is a common problem with diesel engines that are operated for extended periods with light or no loads applied. When a diesel engine operates without sufficient load it will not operate at its optimum temperature. This allows unburned fuel to accumulate in the exhaust system, which can foul the fuel injectors, engine valves and exhaust system, including turbochargers, and reduce operating performance.

While typically associated with diesel engines, especially those with turbochargers, Wet Stacking also occurs in generator engines that operate on Natural Gas and Liquid Propane. Operating gaseous engines for extended periods with light or no loads applied will cause cylinder glazing. The glazed cylinder wall causes rings to "skate" on the highly polished finish and discourages the minute amount of wear which is necessary to mate piston rings with the bore. This condition will let crankcase oil pass by the piston rings and cause carbonization in the combustion chamber. This condition can damage valves, pistons, and lower the efficiency and power of your engine.

Sez Hoo! wrote:
Its my engine its my money that will be used to fix it so I'll do what I feel is necessary.

I even checked out my warm up procedure with a tech with a degree in diesel engines and he agrees with what I'm doing. So its gonna be business as usual.