Forum Discussion
BenK
Jan 10, 2020Explorer
Maybe Grit isn't as young as thought:B...as me too, flex fans were the coolest invention of that time. Almost put a SS flex in on my 1973 K5 Blazer, but never got around to it. It's still in the garage somewhere...
As for lock up. My 1996 4L80E locks up in 3rd and also around 200-300 RPM drop when it does lock
Difference is that mine is direct linkage to the throttle and yours fly by wire. So there is more of a lag flying by wire and checking requires eyeballs to stay on the tack a bit longer than mine
Also, fly by wire has the ECU 'think' a bit longer before it does whatever you told it to do...especially dealing with power mode...nailing the throttle to the floor will have it think a bit...check the sensors to make sure it is okay. Mine is NOW, unless it is already in a lower power mode
My 4L80E, manually in 1st will shift up a gear by itself once it approaches red line.
Marty dislikes the 400/4L80E, as they failed on him. Think his diff ratio the culprit, as 1st is not low enough (2.48) helped by the TC coupling losses & torque multiplication
Mine is 4.1's and going to 5.38's or whatever can find that has a front diff gear set to go with the rear gear set
Back to the OP, think he has the 4L85E. IIRC GM had the gears nitrided (hardened) and heavier duty clutches. Maybe some other goodies, but don't remember what else
Ask the OP if he has the work order, etc sheets listing what they did to 'fix' the radiator leak. Patrick is spot on for some 'El Cheapo' shops who will put in that kind of radiator. Fine for light driving, but anything demanding higher BTU rejection will over heat
OP, look into your radiator cap opening (assume you can, somewhere all the OEM's went away from that and had a pressurized over flow bottle). There should be an ATF radiator inside the cold tank of your main radiator. Small block had a 5 fin and big block had a 7 fin radiator. I'll find time to dig into my image file system (Photobucket screwed my posting system/files and have to go back to the HDD in the safe).
If you have that tube Patrick talked about, have it changed. Heard about them, but never eyeballed one
Agree with Grit...most likely you, the OP, has a few issues stacked up on top of each other due to several things 'fixed'. Again, suggest going to the least costly and IMHO, that is the fan clutch. Get the severe duty and change the serpentine belt & idler while at it
Good luck and please post updates as it goes
As for lock up. My 1996 4L80E locks up in 3rd and also around 200-300 RPM drop when it does lock
Difference is that mine is direct linkage to the throttle and yours fly by wire. So there is more of a lag flying by wire and checking requires eyeballs to stay on the tack a bit longer than mine
Also, fly by wire has the ECU 'think' a bit longer before it does whatever you told it to do...especially dealing with power mode...nailing the throttle to the floor will have it think a bit...check the sensors to make sure it is okay. Mine is NOW, unless it is already in a lower power mode
My 4L80E, manually in 1st will shift up a gear by itself once it approaches red line.
Marty dislikes the 400/4L80E, as they failed on him. Think his diff ratio the culprit, as 1st is not low enough (2.48) helped by the TC coupling losses & torque multiplication
Mine is 4.1's and going to 5.38's or whatever can find that has a front diff gear set to go with the rear gear set
Back to the OP, think he has the 4L85E. IIRC GM had the gears nitrided (hardened) and heavier duty clutches. Maybe some other goodies, but don't remember what else
Ask the OP if he has the work order, etc sheets listing what they did to 'fix' the radiator leak. Patrick is spot on for some 'El Cheapo' shops who will put in that kind of radiator. Fine for light driving, but anything demanding higher BTU rejection will over heat
OP, look into your radiator cap opening (assume you can, somewhere all the OEM's went away from that and had a pressurized over flow bottle). There should be an ATF radiator inside the cold tank of your main radiator. Small block had a 5 fin and big block had a 7 fin radiator. I'll find time to dig into my image file system (Photobucket screwed my posting system/files and have to go back to the HDD in the safe).
If you have that tube Patrick talked about, have it changed. Heard about them, but never eyeballed one
Agree with Grit...most likely you, the OP, has a few issues stacked up on top of each other due to several things 'fixed'. Again, suggest going to the least costly and IMHO, that is the fan clutch. Get the severe duty and change the serpentine belt & idler while at it
Good luck and please post updates as it goes
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