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darbyjudy's avatar
darbyjudy
Explorer
Jul 04, 2013

US Gear Braking system

I have a problem with my US Gear Braking system, when I hook it up I get no green light at the control. I went through all the steps to check the wireing and found all to be OK . So I guess it must be the control in the motor home. I checked and found them to be over $300, well I guess since I only paid less that $500 for the whole setup I find to be that entirely too expensive. I guess I will once again run without the braking system. Or I will just wait until I can afford another type. This little piece of which needs replaced probably doesn't cost $50 but US Gear think it is worth much more than that. Maybe I will be lucky and find a place to repair the control or maybe a used one. If anyone has a good cheap solution please let me know.
  • Nice to hear you've had it for years without issue.

    When you turn the towing vehicles key on, do the LEDs flash? You didn't mention checking the 12v red lead into the towed vehicle controller, but without it you're doomed too.

    To find a qualified electronics tech near you, look in the yellow pages under electronics repair. It could be listed under TV repair as well.
  • After I got the car back home I hooked up the brake and ran voltage checkes as the Trouble shoot guide from US Gear suggests. I also checked to make sure I had not lost the ground. I unpluged the control unit and checked the blue wire , I had 10.5 volta there. I then plugged it back in and ran voltage check to both sides of the connecter and had 10.5 on both sides. At the black wire I had a good ground and also had voltage on the Orange wire when I depressed the brake pedal. I pulled the brake away switch and the vacumn motor ran and the Solenoid pulled the brake pedal down in the car.
    This unit has been hooked up to this car and motor home for several years and has worked great until now. All things point to the control module. I just find that the price of this part is entirely out of line. I would be willing to buy a used one or even have this one repaired if I only knew who to send it to.
  • Popsie wrote:
    willald wrote:
    ..Expensive electronic components that can foul up and cause havoc....Your post here shows One of the main reasons why I want nothing to do with ANY 'electronic box' type braking system.

    I highly recommend the ReadyBrake system. You could buy an entire Readybrake system for not much more than what US Gear wants to charge you for that controller that failed on yours. No electronics, nothing to fail and over-brake your toad or cause other problems. Just simple, no-nonsense cable-operated brake system that simply works, period. Almost anything that *might* one day wear out or break with the Readybrake can be bought from a local hardware store for less than $20. Its the only system I'll own.
    I assume that the ready brake (surge brake) system has a damper (like a shock absorber) to minimize hyseteresis - is the damper adjustable to suit the mass of the toad?

    If I might chime in here, it doesn't have to be, since as soon as the toad brake is applied, it slows and the brakes are released. The only cable adjustment necessary is for how soon you'd like for the toad brake to be applied, as it catches up to the coach or whatever might be pulling it. I have mine pretty tight, since I want some degree of braking at the moment the toad catches up to the coach.
  • willald wrote:
    ..Expensive electronic components that can foul up and cause havoc....Your post here shows One of the main reasons why I want nothing to do with ANY 'electronic box' type braking system.

    I highly recommend the ReadyBrake system. You could buy an entire Readybrake system for not much more than what US Gear wants to charge you for that controller that failed on yours. No electronics, nothing to fail and over-brake your toad or cause other problems. Just simple, no-nonsense cable-operated brake system that simply works, period. Almost anything that *might* one day wear out or break with the Readybrake can be bought from a local hardware store for less than $20. Its the only system I'll own.
    I assume that the ready brake (surge brake) system has a damper (like a shock absorber) to minimize hysteresis - is the damper adjustable to suit the mass of the toad?
  • willald wrote:
    ..Expensive electronic components that can foul up and cause havoc....Your post here shows One of the main reasons why I want nothing to do with ANY 'electronic box' type braking system.

    I highly recommend the ReadyBrake system. You could buy an entire Readybrake system for not much more than what US Gear wants to charge you for that controller that failed on yours. No electronics, nothing to fail and over-brake your toad or cause other problems. Just simple, no-nonsense cable-operated brake system that simply works, period. Almost anything that *might* one day wear out or break with the Readybrake can be bought from a local hardware store for less than $20. Its the only system I'll own.

    Couldn't have said it better myself and the time for the OP to get rid of that mess is now, for around $400 that should work well with any existing tow bar. The $35 dash LED monitor is usually included with your order as well.
  • ..Expensive electronic components that can foul up and cause havoc....Your post here shows One of the main reasons why I want nothing to do with ANY 'electronic box' type braking system.

    I highly recommend the ReadyBrake system. You could buy an entire Readybrake system for not much more than what US Gear wants to charge you for that controller that failed on yours. No electronics, nothing to fail and over-brake your toad or cause other problems. Just simple, no-nonsense cable-operated brake system that simply works, period. Almost anything that *might* one day wear out or break with the Readybrake can be bought from a local hardware store for less than $20. Its the only system I'll own.
  • What have you specifically checked? There are several places you could have a wiring problem that would cause failure. Did it ever work? How did you verify voltage on the blue lead to the towed vehicle control box? Did you 100% verified 12v, ground and brake lamp switch connections on the towing vehicle? On the control box end in the towed vehicle, did you check and verify that the blue lead (and all others for that matter) is actually plugged into the control box? Have you verified that the cable between the towed and towing vehicle is not the issue? Does the break-away switch activate the system?

    I think the UTB is a great system. Even with a controller at $300 replacement cost if you actually need it, it's still cheaper than a complete new system from anybody else. Additionally, if you can find a qualified electronic technician, he may be able to repair what you have inexpensively.

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