Warning newb question
I apologize if this is asked regularly but want to use my own numbers to understand things the best I can. We want to get a travel trailer to pull with our 2015 Tahoe. The tow capacity is not an i...
Forum Discussion
All the calculators, spread sheets, etc in the world are only going to provide a guesstimate of where you are in reference to the OEM's ratings...unless you use the actual weight of your Tahoe...as it would be ready to go RV'ing
First...decide if you believe in your OEM's ratings or not
If not, then academic this discussion, or any discussion...and most times find that, that OP is only looking for the 'sure you can'....'have been doing that for decades with no problems'...etc, etc...of which that OP will receive many, many from freebie advisors with no skin in 'your' game...
If yes, then learn how the ratings systems works (all OEMs selling in this country abide by the same regulatory agency requirements...therefore insurance rules/regulations/etc) and is their contract to you the owner of that vehicle.
Gather these ratings from your OEM:
On those ratings...know that they are for your vehicle as built or left the factory. If you have changed (re-engineered) something, then those ratings might not apply. Since re-engineered...a new value might be the case...but...the OEM will only warranty the vehicle as it was leaving their factory
And the biggie that not many will do...load up your TV as if going RV'ing and weigh it axle by axle. Full fluids, people, pets, cargo, toys (bikes, grill, firewood, etc, etc)
Then do the simple math using this generic formula:
This is not an exact requirement, but IMHO, always better to be under the ratings
Another fact is that all things engineered/designed/certified/etc by the OEMs are for the bad day when Mr Murphy crosses your path. Either you have the safety margin dialed in by your OEM (AKA...their ratings) spot on...or not. No time to go back to the store for proper whatever...nor time to re-setup
That is part of the ability to manhandle the situation with experience and the proper safety margins of whatever you have spot on
Guessing the most likely rating that will limit your potential/planned setup will be the rear GAWR, as is the case for most half ton TVs. Higher class TVs most all have a +6,000 lb Rear GAWR vs most half ton's Rear GAWR in the +4,000 lb range (fake half tons are in the 5,000 lb range)...of which know of no HD Tahoe...so your Rear GAWR will be in the +3K to +4K range
On that, note that your Tahoe will weigh much more than the one the OEM used to derive the MTWR...unless you have the stripper model Tahoe... So the published MTWR does NOT apply to most all Tahoe's out there
First...decide if you believe in your OEM's ratings or not
If not, then academic this discussion, or any discussion...and most times find that, that OP is only looking for the 'sure you can'....'have been doing that for decades with no problems'...etc, etc...of which that OP will receive many, many from freebie advisors with no skin in 'your' game...
If yes, then learn how the ratings systems works (all OEMs selling in this country abide by the same regulatory agency requirements...therefore insurance rules/regulations/etc) and is their contract to you the owner of that vehicle.
Gather these ratings from your OEM:
- GCWR
- GVWR
- Front GAWR
- Rear GAWR
On those ratings...know that they are for your vehicle as built or left the factory. If you have changed (re-engineered) something, then those ratings might not apply. Since re-engineered...a new value might be the case...but...the OEM will only warranty the vehicle as it was leaving their factory
- Example is with my old K5 Blazer. Changed the whole suspension to a Dana 60 front, positive arched leaf springs rated for 5K lbs, GM 14 bolt rear axle & leaf springs from a junk yard donor
- But know GM would only warranty it as it left their factory
- Not the 1 ton suspension it became with all that work re-engineering it
And the biggie that not many will do...load up your TV as if going RV'ing and weigh it axle by axle. Full fluids, people, pets, cargo, toys (bikes, grill, firewood, etc, etc)
Then do the simple math using this generic formula:
GCWR >= TV (actual) + trailer (actual) + stuff (like the WD Hitch, etc)
This is not an exact requirement, but IMHO, always better to be under the ratings
Another fact is that all things engineered/designed/certified/etc by the OEMs are for the bad day when Mr Murphy crosses your path. Either you have the safety margin dialed in by your OEM (AKA...their ratings) spot on...or not. No time to go back to the store for proper whatever...nor time to re-setup
That is part of the ability to manhandle the situation with experience and the proper safety margins of whatever you have spot on
Guessing the most likely rating that will limit your potential/planned setup will be the rear GAWR, as is the case for most half ton TVs. Higher class TVs most all have a +6,000 lb Rear GAWR vs most half ton's Rear GAWR in the +4,000 lb range (fake half tons are in the 5,000 lb range)...of which know of no HD Tahoe...so your Rear GAWR will be in the +3K to +4K range
On that, note that your Tahoe will weigh much more than the one the OEM used to derive the MTWR...unless you have the stripper model Tahoe... So the published MTWR does NOT apply to most all Tahoe's out there
