Have had a truck top camper so my questions at first will be confined to asking about stuff that is new to me. Bought a 2011 Sunnybrook Harmony M-21FBS travel trailer today. The trailer was bought new in 2011 then pulled from New Mexico to Texas and parked. It has never been used otherise or slept in as claimed by the PO. The tags on the blinds are still in place and there is a big sticker in the middle of the floor so I tend to believe her. The ties are the roginals: ST205/75D 14. The tires were down in pressure a tad and didn't appear dry rotted. Are new tires in order? I am kind of thinking they are. If I do buy new tires, how does this work? Jack it up and take off the rims and take them to a tire place or do folks pull the trailer to a tire shop? Does anyone have an owner's manual for this model or the Sunnybrook Harmony family from 2011? I looked on the Winnebego site and they have an archives but it didn't contain anything for this model family. The batteries are the original so I suspect they are sulfated and I will have to buy two new batteries but will get them load tested first. If the tanks never held gray/black or water, what should I look for there? Roof has never been touched. The black sealer used around vents and such is fully intact but has some surface crazing from the sun; do these need to be re-sealed?Last dumb question... the trailer sat and south side is nasty; can I safely pressure wash or should I use silicon or some other sealer around windows and other factory sealed areas?Thanks in advance... be gentle. wg

You could remove the tires and take to your local Discount Tire, Americas Tire, Costco, Walmart or other supplier but you may want to call and see if they have trailer tires in your size as they may need to order them.The tires now are 6 years old at best and should be replaced regardless of milage. Tire companies warn of keeping tires over 5 years or so because of possible internal breakdown of the structural members.Black, Gray and Fresh tanks should be good to go but you will want to sterilize the Fresh with a chlorine bleach mix and run it thru the system first though. Pressure washing shouldn't be a problem but don't get closer than 8-10" especially around windows.You might want to wash by hand afterwards.

New tires for sure.As for the cruddy exterior, go to Dollar Tree and buy several bottles of Awsome cleaner. Use it liberally along with a soft scrub brush followed by lots of water and a good wax job. Pressure washer unless you are really comfortable with one could create more problems that good.

I can answer a few questions. I had 3 year old tires on my used fifth wheel when I bought it. Thought I was good to go. Thunk wrong. Tires looked good, but had 2 blowouts, same trip. Towed fifth wheel to dealer, they installed 4 new tires on it and upgraded the load range by one letter. Tired aged out.Batteries...most likely gone. Check water level? Dried out, plates showing?Think new batteries.I would not pressure wash...could damage decals and the decals are kind of iffy anyway. I use a rv wash brush on my trailer with a rv wash soap. Rinse good.Roof needs to be inspected thoroughly and new caulking applied where needed. I have taken old caulking off and put all new on areas which looked questionable.Tanks if no water in them, slide valves could stick when pulling handle. I would try to coat the slide hand with silicone spray...if the slides valves are close by, maybe try to shoot them some spray, too. Spray the rubber in the toilet bowl, also. Here again, I use silicone spray. Add some water, see if it holds in the bowl. Not knowing what could be in the tanks, connect a sewer hose to an outlet first. Yes, I am a solo rver now and have to keep up with maintenance... Good luck.

I didn't need to hear the info regarding the tires as I guess I knew it already. I am cheap but not suicidal so new tires it is... thanks! I just wanted some reinforcement... I read over some of the old threads on this forum regarding tires and there is a lot of controvery as to use ST or LT tires and Carlise tires seem especially hated by some with reports of blow outs and such common. The decals are already kind of sketchy with a bit of fading and pealing. They don't seem to actually be decals but seem to be vinyl stick ons I think. If the trailer comes with a jack (it has four leveling jacks on the corners), do I jack up one side, take them in, then the other? I do have jackstands but placing them under an axle and having them support the trailer weight makes me uneasy. Dry weight is 3820 lbs and the jack stands are rated 2K lbs I think (bought them for my trike to raise the rear and hold it for service). Is there a clever way to remove all four tires/rims for replacement at a tire place?Should I go LT or ST when I buy the tires? Tirees are standard ST205/75D14; any brand preferences from the lighter trailer folks; GVWR is 5500.

LadyRVer wrote:I can answer a few questions. I had 3 year old tires on my used fifth wheel when I bought it. Thought I was good to go. Thunk wrong. Tires looked good, but had 2 blowouts, same trip. Towed fifth wheel to dealer, they installed 4 new tires on it and upgraded the load range by one letter. Tired aged out.Batteries...most likely gone. Check water level? Dried out, plates showing?Think new batteries.I would not pressure wash...could damage decals and the decals are kind of iffy anyway. I use a rv wash brush on my trailer with a rv wash soap. Rinse good.Roof needs to be inspected thoroughly and new caulking applied where needed. I have taken old caulking off and put all new on areas which looked questionable.Tanks if no water in them, slide valves could stick when pulling handle. I would try to coat the slide hand with silicone spray...if the slides valves are close by, maybe try to shoot them some spray, too. Spray the rubber in the toilet bowl, also. Here again, I use silicone spray. Add some water, see if it holds in the bowl. Not knowing what could be in the tanks, connect a sewer hose to an outlet first. Yes, I am a solo rver now and have to keep up with maintenance... Good luck.Your comments regarding slide valves have me puzzled. Are you refering to the dump valves for the gray and black tanks? I told you I was a newb hehe Also the rubber in the toilet? I am not sure I know where any rubber would be. I didn't take the lid off but do you mean the flapper valve? Last, the shower is two-part; pan and sides (has glass door). There didn't seem to be any silicon on the juncture between pan and sides. Is this normal?

newb questions | Good Sam Community

15 Replies

GrandpaKip
Explorer II
Mar 07, 2017
When you drive up on the Trailer Aid, the other tire raises enough to remove it. Usually, that is. Some folks have not had success with it. Worked fine for me. I changed all 4 tires in less than an hour.
I would only have all 4 tires off if it was all supported by jack stands on either side of the hangers on the frame.
When I need tires, I'll throw my spare rims in the truck, take them to the dealer and change them myself.
tomkaren13
Explorer
Mar 06, 2017
When we needed tires we called the tire stores and asked them, First do they have the trailer tires, then ask if the can put them on. We never had a problem finding someone to do it. As to the Carlisle tires they have gotten better but.
wiredgeorge
Explorer
Mar 06, 2017
I did find a generic pull trailer manual on the Winnebego site:

https://winnebagoind.com/resources/manuals/operatormanuals2011.php

This manual seems to cover most of what has been said regarding advice so far.
To be clear, I will want to raise the tires off the ground to remove the wheels. The manual I referred to doesn't cover this. How do you remove all four wheels at once (technique)?

Use of the jack stands? Is this to augment the the stabilizing jacks? And I looked up the Trailer Aid term and found that it is in line with the recommendation of the online manual telling you to drive up on 2x6s. What is the purpose of driving up on the Trailer Aid (or 2x6s)?

Anyway, a quick how to on how to safely get all four tires off would be appreciated. I only looked at the trailer briefly yesterday but there is a hand crank jack part of the tounge and I think there was a scissors jack in the storage area and crank. There are stabilizer jacks on the trailer as well.
boosTT
Explorer
Mar 06, 2017
You will need to spend some time caulking the roof. New tires for sure and might as well get a new battery. Plan to repack the bearings. Don't forget to fill the propane.
GrandpaKip
Explorer II
Mar 06, 2017
I have Maxxis tires and am very satisfied. I went to my local trailer (not camper) dealer and got a set of 4 tires already mounted on rims. Not much more expensive than taking tires to dealer, but lots easier.
Don't use the stabilizers as jacks. Don't jack up by the axle tube. Either jack up by the frame near the tires or where the axle is attached to the springs. I use a Trailer Aid. Use of jack stands is a good idea, also.
No silicone caulk on the outside. Dicor or the like is better. I don't use it on the inside, either.
The manual for the camper is usually generic and fairly useless. Better to get a loose leaf notebook and fill it with info on all the separate components. Get model numbers and go to the fount of all knowledge(The Google).
Get everything weighed and learn all about the various weights of your camper and your tow vehicle.
Good luck and Happy Glamping.
henkelphoto
Explorer
Mar 06, 2017
wiredgeorge wrote:

If the trailer comes with a jack (it has four leveling jacks on the corners), do I jack up one side, take them in, then the other? I do have jackstands but placing them under an axle and having them support the trailer weight makes me uneasy. Dry weight is 3820 lbs and the jack stands are rated 2K lbs I think (bought them for my trike to raise the rear and hold it for service). Is there a clever way to remove all four tires/rims for replacement at a tire place?

I wouldn't set the trailer weight down on those tiny little stabilizer jacks. Your trailer has a tongue jack that should be holding 10% of the trailer weight (about 400lbs) that leaves 3400 for the trailer axels. How about buying two more jack stands and putting one on each end of each axle? That would only be 850 lbs each jack stand, assuming your trailer is balanced.
stickdog
Explorer
Mar 06, 2017
I didn't see anyone mention it but you should repack the wheel bearings when you replace the tires. Some would say replace them.
coolmom42
Explorer II
Mar 06, 2017
Much good advice above.

NEVER use silicone on the outside of a RV. It is extremely hard to remove thoroughly enough that you can re-caulk over it. A brand called Dicor is a good type to use on the outside. It comes in a self-levelling for horizontal surfaces, and non-levelling for vertical applications.

Definitely sanitize the water system; there are lots of tips on here on how to do it. Use 1/4 cup for every 15 gallons of water in the fresh tank, and open all lines until you smell the bleach coming out. Be sure to include the outdoor shower if you have one. Let it stand 12-24 hours. Then drain the fresh tank, fill with clean water, and flush all the lines. Do this a couple of times and the chlorine taste will be gone.

You need tires.

Go over all the seams and roof penetrations with Dicor.
wiredgeorge
Explorer
Mar 06, 2017
Thanks... didn't know there was a seal in the toilet. If this has been dry since day one and for a few years, your silicon spray tip for that is one I had not thought of. Will also hit the dump valves.

I was going to get ST tires automatically till I read a prior thread on the subject and saw all the controversy. There are not a lot of 14" LT tires anyway.
LadyRVer
Explorer II
Mar 06, 2017
Yes, dump valves for gray and black tanks. My very first rv, pulled the handle, the rubber seal was so bad, it all came out..whoosh....TMI.....

Inside the toilet bowl is a black rubber seal which should help hold water in the bowl between flushes. It is a very thin seal. If no water has been in the bowl for a long time, this seal could be dried out. Might be able to bring it back with lubricant.

One rv shower I had was a 2 part as you describe. No sealant between the 2 parts. Worked OK for me.

My tires were 15 and the tire company advised me not to go with LT tires, due to size. JMHO. I just went with normal trailer tires and the one load range uograded, to D, I think.