Warning newb question

why_fly_high wrote:
I apologize if this is asked regularly but want to use my own numbers to understand things the best I can.

We want to get a travel trailer to pull with our 2015 Tahoe. The tow capacity is not an issue. We are looking at trailers well under that limit of 8300lbs. I am trying to get my head around the vehicle capacity limit.

My vehicle has a useable load limit of 1554lbs.

My family of 2 adults and 2 teenage boys weigh 640lbs
a full tank of gas weighs 140lbs.
our 2 dogs together weigh combined 80lbs
weight distribution hitch 100lbs
misc stuff in car: 50lbs
Total: 1,010lbs

Would that not leave me with a maximum tongue weight allowed of 544lbs?

Thanks!

Im a chevy guy and know what you got. Your Tahoe is the same capacity of my silverado.

If your door says 1554 then with a full tank and you in the truck you will be close to that. And thats after you go to scales and go by your axle rate like I do/did..

Example. My payload stickers says 1470. At scale with me in truck 200 pounds and about 210 lbs of fuel (34 gal tank) My payload left was 1450.

3750 lbs rear axles weight from sticker on door minus 2300 lb scale weight = 1450 lbs.

With that said I too have wife, 3 kids, and stuff.

Family weighs an additional 465 lbs. Minus 1450 = 985 lb left for TW.

So my goal was to get the lightest tongue weight trailer I could find that was a bunkhouse.. I chose the coachmen 261bh because I didn't want a slide and because I got it for 12,900 out the door.

http://www.coachmenrv.com/product-details.aspx?LineID=338&ModelID=2193#Main

So lets talk reality.

541 lb advertised TW. Yes thats what it was empty. Coachmen is pretty accurate there. After I loaded my stuff from old camper into new, filled propane, and added second battery my scale TW was now 740lbs..

985 minus 740 = 245lbs.

After I transfer some weight to front of truck and trailer with WD hitch I have a bit more leeway. about 160 lbs more or so..

So I have about 400lb wiggle room...

Thats probably what I carry in food, clothes and stuff in bed of truck to push it up there to my limit. Pluse carrying some water on board. 15 gallons in the campers holding tank so we can have bathroom breaks..

********Moral of the story> Get the lightest TW you can. Because with your truck you will be at your limit very quickly. Youll be sorry if you start with a 700-800 lbs TW for sure.

Also the start dryweight get the lightest you can. I started @ 4730 lbs. Trailer fully loaded about 5500 lbs. I have 1000 lbs buffer to run with tanks fuller if needed because coachmans have around 2200 lbs capacity for stuff.

Total GVW 7000 lbs.

Youll have a nice ride and tow.

Last thing. Are those coil springs on your truck with that magnetic shocks?

Id advise to change the bump stops to sumosprings. Because you will have sag. I have leaf spring and got sag. Sumos took care of it. Its a cheap way out for now. If you need something better there are other options.

https://www.supersprings.com/shop/SSR-204-40/

I seriously considered this coachmen with slides. Same weight as mine.

IMO I wouldnt go bigger then this.. Its all about your payload and TW...

This RV example..

585 tw
4880 lbs
2100 CCC capacity.
50gal fresh water
35x35 grey and black...





http://www.coachmenrv.com/product-details.aspx?LineID=62&ModelID=292#Main

Video on 288bhs apex..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8tc8RQUk35M

You are "maxing" out the Tahoe with IMO an unrealistic low tongue weight. Finding a TT for four people and two dogs in the 3,700 pound area will be very hard. Watch your wheelbase/trailer length too. (I'm a Tahoe fan!)

why_fly_high wrote:

bikendan wrote:

kerrlakeRoo wrote:
As Camp-n-family said your number from the factory supposedly allows for a full tank of fuel, and I believe 150 lbs for the driver.

150lbs driver is for towing capacity, not payload capacity.
Driver is considered an occupant for payload capacity.

1554

Well that's leaves you 870lbs.

Don't use fantasy dry weights. A loaded tongue weight could easily 150lbs more than the dry tongue weight number.

All the calculators, spread sheets, etc in the world are only going to provide a guesstimate of where you are in reference to the OEM's ratings...unless you use the actual weight of your Tahoe...as it would be ready to go RV'ing

First...decide if you believe in your OEM's ratings or not

If not, then academic this discussion, or any discussion...and most times find that, that OP is only looking for the 'sure you can'....'have been doing that for decades with no problems'...etc, etc...of which that OP will receive many, many from freebie advisors with no skin in 'your' game...

If yes, then learn how the ratings systems works (all OEMs selling in this country abide by the same regulatory agency requirements...therefore insurance rules/regulations/etc) and is their contract to you the owner of that vehicle.

Gather these ratings from your OEM:

• GCWR
• GVWR
• Front GAWR
• Rear GAWR

On those ratings...know that they are for your vehicle as built or left the factory. If you have changed (re-engineered) something, then those ratings might not apply. Since re-engineered...a new value might be the case...but...the OEM will only warranty the vehicle as it was leaving their factory

• Example is with my old K5 Blazer. Changed the whole suspension to a Dana 60 front, positive arched leaf springs rated for 5K lbs, GM 14 bolt rear axle & leaf springs from a junk yard donor
• But know GM would only warranty it as it left their factory
• Not the 1 ton suspension it became with all that work re-engineering it

And the biggie that not many will do...load up your TV as if going RV'ing and weigh it axle by axle. Full fluids, people, pets, cargo, toys (bikes, grill, firewood, etc, etc)

Then do the simple math using this generic formula:

GCWR >= TV (actual) + trailer (actual) + stuff (like the WD Hitch, etc)

This is not an exact requirement, but IMHO, always better to be under the ratings

Another fact is that all things engineered/designed/certified/etc by the OEMs are for the bad day when Mr Murphy crosses your path. Either you have the safety margin dialed in by your OEM (AKA...their ratings) spot on...or not. No time to go back to the store for proper whatever...nor time to re-setup

That is part of the ability to manhandle the situation with experience and the proper safety margins of whatever you have spot on

Guessing the most likely rating that will limit your potential/planned setup will be the rear GAWR, as is the case for most half ton TVs. Higher class TVs most all have a +6,000 lb Rear GAWR vs most half ton's Rear GAWR in the +4,000 lb range (fake half tons are in the 5,000 lb range)...of which know of no HD Tahoe...so your Rear GAWR will be in the +3K to +4K range

On that, note that your Tahoe will weigh much more than the one the OEM used to derive the MTWR...unless you have the stripper model Tahoe... So the published MTWR does NOT apply to most all Tahoe's out there

bikendan wrote:

kerrlakeRoo wrote:
As Camp-n-family said your number from the factory supposedly allows for a full tank of fuel, and I believe 150 lbs for the driver.

150lbs driver is for towing capacity, not payload capacity.
Driver is considered an occupant for payload capacity.

1554

If you know how much payload you have available for tongue weight, you can divide that number by .13 to get a ball park figure of loaded trailer weight that will put you close to max capacity.

When you go shopping for the trailer, sales people will all be taking unloaded weights, they have no clue what you will be carrying. Whatever UVW they tell you, add 1000 lbs to it, and you'll have an idea of what the loaded weight will be. You can multiply loaded weight by .13 to get a ball park of what the loaded tongue weight will be.

Leave yourself some room for possible surprise passengers and for tongue weight fluctuations. Tongue weight goes up and down during every trip.

Here's a link to a calculator that may help.

kerrlakeRoo wrote:
As Camp-n-family said your number from the factory supposedly allows for a full tank of fuel, and I believe 150 lbs for the driver.

150lbs driver is for towing capacity, not payload capacity.
Driver is considered an occupant for payload capacity.

why_fly_high wrote:

kerrlakeRoo wrote:
As Camp-n-family said your number from the factory supposedly allows for a full tank of fuel, and I believe 150 lbs for the driver.

I just checked the manual and is says to reduce the weight capacity by the weight of the driver and passengers so I guess it includes fuel but not driver.

Thanks for the help so far folks.

What does the Tahoes payload sticker say?
It's the yellow/white sticker on the driver's door or door frame.

It'll say "Occupants and cargo should not exceed xxxxlbs"

Payload sticker weight is not as good as actually weighing your TV.
But it's a good ballpark number to start with.

SUVs have lower payload numbers than their truck cousins and have soft suspensions.

You'll run out of payload capacity WAY before getting close to the towing capacity.

why_fly_high wrote:

kerrlakeRoo wrote:
As Camp-n-family said your number from the factory supposedly allows for a full tank of fuel, and I believe 150 lbs for the driver.

I just checked the manual and is says to reduce the weight capacity by the weight of the driver and passengers so I guess it includes fuel but not driver.

Thanks for the help so far folks.

Yes, the new tow ratings includes weight for driver and 1 passenger (150lbs each), the payload does not. A common misconception.

kerrlakeRoo wrote:
As Camp-n-family said your number from the factory supposedly allows for a full tank of fuel, and I believe 150 lbs for the driver.

I just checked the manual and is says to reduce the weight capacity by the weight of the driver and passengers so I guess it includes fuel but not driver.

Thanks for the help so far folks.