Pulled my 10 gallon water heater today to have a hole welded. I had a fitting crack which shorted the temp control and made a hole in the tank. I had the hole welded today and the repair guys suggested replacing the element and using a thermostat from a house water heater to replace the damaged sensor. After removing the tank, I found, when draining, that there was a good bit of white particulate in the tank. We removed the element which is covered with similar white "stuff". I plan on getting it back in tomorrow and wanted advice on their ideas and anything else I might should do to get this heater ready for 15 or more years of operation.Any advise would be appreciated!

Flush out the debris more often… I have a tool for flushing it out that helps a lot…Do you know what cause the fitting to crack???

We found a replacement 10 gas/ele a couple of years ago for $239.00 I cant see as it would be worth all the trouble to fix one? How old it it?

It was working fine until the fitting cracked. Only can guess, but the output water line fitting cracked right at the entry to the tank maybe due to cold weather or improperly installed. Didn't know how to get the leftover pvc out of the tank, so after talking to several people, I used a propane torch to burn it out. Got the new fitting taped and in only to find the short had made a hole. It's a '96 model and if I could get one for less that $300, I would just keep this one for a backup!

Aluminum tank repairs (welding) run about $50… new cost can be considerable…click

$50 is what I paid. I would prefer to upgrade an old one to make it better than a new one. Everything is made less durable these days, so just want to get this one in as good of shape as possible while I have it out.

Water heater out for repairs - anything else to do?

Lynnmor
Explorer
Jan 11, 2014
While the heater is out, seal (caulk) anywhere that water can enter the wall. Water from draining the heater as well as rain water may cause damage.
JJBIRISH
Explorer
Jan 11, 2014
I have had these still working at 30+ years, I can’t think of a single reason to modify one to the point of unknown results myself…
RamblinMurph
Explorer
Jan 11, 2014
That's a good idea. It would be nice to have quicker recovery.

Any opinions on using a thermostat from a household unit to control water temperature?
wa8yxm
Explorer III
Jan 11, 2014
White stuff is minerals disloved in the water more than likely.

As others have said hose it out.

Replacing the element.. Might as well and keep old one as a spare.

If I were doing that much work.. i'd have 'em put a 2nd element port in and put a standard RV element in one and a 240 element in the other. .That way I'd have HIGH for when I'm on 50 amps or need a quick recovery and a LOW for use on 30 amps and not doing dishes or showering. Leaves more power for other uses.
katysdad
Explorer
Jan 11, 2014
Heating elements at Lowes or Home Depot are about $8-$9. Just make sure it is rated 120V. Most are 220-240 volts and will only warm the water at wrong voltage.
RamblinMurph
Explorer
Jan 11, 2014
pianotuna, thanks for that info. I was told the residential will fit. I will find out today.
awgdog
Explorer
Jan 11, 2014
Hello There :).YUP, hot water heater after working quite well, It doesn't lite anymore ?..checked all the connections , fuses, and all works well, except doesn't lite..any suggestions ?
pianotuna
Nomad III
Jan 11, 2014
Hi,

Treat it with descaler and rinse extremely well. If you don't wish to be that "harsh" then treat it with vinegar (heated is better).

Will the residential electric element fit the hole?
RamblinMurph
Explorer
Jan 11, 2014
$50 is what I paid. I would prefer to upgrade an old one to make it better than a new one. Everything is made less durable these days, so just want to get this one in as good of shape as possible while I have it out.
JJBIRISH
Explorer
Jan 11, 2014
Aluminum tank repairs (welding) run about $50… new cost can be considerable…

click