Psi inside your camper would remain the same as the incoming CG pressure. If you are thinking your hot hose could drive the pressure up from the CG faucet connection all the way through the municipal distribution system back to the water system source (dam, well, lake), not possible. If you had the CG faucet off, any pressure increase in the hose and RV piping would be insignificant.
RV hoses have different max. psi ratings. The pressure at which a hose will burst is affected by temp. and dia. of the hose. A smaller dia. 1/2" hose can withstand more pressure than 5/8". As a hose would heat up in the sun, the hose material would soften and expand, have it's pressure rating go down and at some psi would burst. The concern about high water pressure is what the CG system psi is. We've seen it as high as 140 psi so far and it has been reported by some as high as around 200 psi. RVs are supposed to be tested for at least 100 psi.
Cheapie hoses can have a rating as low as 40 psi like this
standard Camco hose. RV drinking water hoses are available with a rating as high as 375 psi like this
Valterra hose. We have a regulator inside our TT and use a heavy duty, high pressure 5/8" hose rated for 200 psi.
At the very least, you want a basic inline regulator at the pedestal faucet end of the hose. There are other better regulators available. If you put your regulator at the city water inlet, it would be wise to get a hose with high pressure rating. Always a good idea to have a spare drinking water hose, even if just for the times you need 50' or more to reach the faucet.