Waterheater Anode

Here's what I bought and installed in the Atwood water heater in our motorhome ... that from posts above may not be neccesary in an Atwood.

It looks like it's magnesium:

http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/anode-rod-with-drain-for-atwood-water-heaters-4-1-2-/37395

Sorry to wedge in... Atwood .???

I have a 2005 Coachmen Cascade 29fkcs... with a Automatic Storage water heater.. model number GC6AA-10E... is it a Atwood.. as the model numbers are the same...
and is there an easy way to determined if the tank is Aluminum?
and an Anode is NOT needed.. but the metal cabinet under the brass drain plug has lots of white powder below it

Thank You.

Atwood uses an Aluminum tank.

Atwood aluminum tanks do NOT require use of an anode rod of any type

Atwood has a 1/2" drain hole which is small and makes it harder to fully flush/rinse due to small drain hole (Suburban uses a 3/4" due to requirement to use an anode rod which is also 9" long)

A 1/4" pet c o c k drain further inhibits proper draining.

Atwood uses a NYLON drain plug due to drain bung threads being aluminum which can be damaged, galled, pitted and/or stripped when other types of plugs are used.



It's your WH and you can do whatever you want......your choice/your issues.

Just remember not everything sold in the aftermarket is needed, recommended or even an improvement.
Just a product being offered for sale.......to get your $$

The "advertising" on the package that my magnesium anode rod came it specifically states that it's for Atwood aluminum RV water heaters.

I wonder why an aluminum tank does not require a magnesium anode rod ... what's the metallurgical chemistry that makes this so?

I figure that a finger-twist 1/4" pet c o c k drain is more convenient to use for periodic draining and flushing (due to salt build-up in the tank from high particulate content count, but otherwise safe, potable water) than getting out a wrench or socket and handle to unscrew a hard-to-reach nylon drain plug.

pnichols wrote:
The "advertising" on the package that my magnesium anode rod came it specifically states that it's for Atwood aluminum RV water heaters.

I wonder why an aluminum tank does not require a magnesium anode rod ... what's the metallurgical chemistry that makes this so?

I figure that a finger-twist 1/4" pet c o c k drain is more convenient to use for periodic draining and flushing (due to salt build-up in the tank from high particulate content count, but otherwise safe, potable water) than getting out a wrench or socket and handle to unscrew a hard-to-reach nylon drain plug.

YEP......Marketing
Packaging states it is for an Atwood cause it will fit the drain hole.
BUT it is an AFTERMARKET product..not made/recommended/supplied by mfg---ATWOOD.

Use it if you want/makes you feel better.
It is NOT needed.

And that 1/4 " drain hole is NOT big enough to drain anything out but small particles and water.
Hard enough to full flush with the 1/2" drain hole let alone narrowing it by half the size.

As posted earlier:
The interior of the tank consists of a 15% thickness of type 7072 aluminum (pure aluminum and zinc) that is fused to the core during the rolling process.
This material protects the tank from the affects of heavy metals and salts found in waters throughout the country.
It is anodic to these heavy metals and acts much like an anode in a steel glass lined tank except it will last much longer.

Go to Atwood Website.
Look up/read about Atwood Aluminum RV Water Heaters for yourself.

Not really the subject here, but it would be a good idea to carry one or two official Atwood plastic drain plugs. When they wear and screw in further to seal, replace with a new one. Don't take a chance on popping one inside the tank trying to get it to seal.

Look up kit number 70661 , It comes with the CORRECT wrench, 2 Plastic drain plugs,and tape $10.49. Ideal for the Atwood H.W.H
Camping World

I've used standard 1/2" CPVC plugs in Atwood heaters for years with no problems when the "real thing" wasn't available.

My 22 year old TT has a anode rod screwed into the back of the water heater. In a very hard to reach position.

Unlike the newer water heaters that I've seen where the rod is part of the drain plug on the bottom of the water heater this one is mounted on the back and high up on the tank. I've had the TT for about 4 years and I've never changed it. I have no idea if it ever has been changed. I'm afraid to strip out the threads removing it.

Is it worth the risk ? Or, should I just leave it alone until the water heater leaks and then replace it. Which I would have to do anyway if I strip out the threads now trying to replace it.

Old-Biscuit wrote:


It is anodic to these heavy metals and acts much like an anode in a steel glass lined tank except it will last much longer.

This is what I think is a bit troubling. The inside of the tank will give up material just like an anode rod. Since there is a large surface area, it should last a long time with most water conditions, but maybe the day will come when you need to replace the decayed tank.