WD hitch for Trailblazer towing 6000 lbs

Why spend the money if your current hitch works? I would try it first and find out. I'm sure you can replace the couple of pieces that are bolted to the old trailer frame.

Timeking wrote:
Grit dog: The old hitch is bolted onto the old trailer. Also, the trailer dealer said the 4 point Equalizer he wants to sell me installed for 6 bills, will make "a world of difference".

Krobbe: Dry wt of the Kodiak is 4306 lbs, the Rockwood 2605S is 5079, so 773 lbs heavier!! It isn't 890 lbs, but it is more than I thought (500). Thanks for pointing that out.

While my experience with wdhs is limited, I still say use the old one if it works for you, unless there's another motivation like having to pay to have the old hitch moved and it works out for you financially or ability wise.
Other than that, "world of difference" is a sales pitch IMO. The wdh takes Weight off the back of your vehicle. If it does that and you don't have trailer sway then I don't see it getting much better except for "new" convienence features or something.
You have 50kmi of towing with this one. If it works it works for you. If it doesn't then I could see the necessity to upgrade.
Note I'm always very skeptical of what a professional salesman says.....

Timeking wrote:
With the old WD, which had chains and slider-brake-bar for sway, it was a synch to adjust: simply pick a different link on the chain.

With the Equalizer it appears you have to screw around with washers, which involves removing bolts. That seems a pain.

On the Reese dual cam system it appears that you could adjust the WD by choosing a new link, but is that true? You also have to drill holes to mount which sucks.

Is there a WD-sway system out there that can easily be adjusted and doesn't require drilling?

Also, as far as the Trailblazer goes: it has a 5.3L V8 with 3.42 rear end, same drivetrain as a Silverado. It is also worth only $2500 on trade-in, and the most I was offered was a mere $3350 selling it myself. There is absolutely no reason not to continue trying to destroy it, something I have been trying real hard to do towing all these miles, but so far GM corporation is making me a very proud owner. The **** thing looks and runs like brand new.

We're using a Blue Ox with 1000lb bars on our Trail Blazer and Shadow Cruiser 240 BHS. Easy to setup and I can tweak it on the fly with the chains on the rotating latches if I need to.

Our dealer only sells Husky Centerline which is a similar setup to the Equalizer with the washers. I've had to setup an Equalizer once before on a large popup and it was a pain- I knew i didn't want that again.

I'm doing the same as you trying to kill a Trail Blazer. Our's is an '03 EXT with the V8 and 3.73 axle; only has 115K miles. Ive added air bags in the rear springs and an aux trans cooler and so far it does ok with the Shadow Cruiser. Figure it's not worth a whole lot so might as well run it till it dies.

Sure thing Timeking. I just pulled the dry weight numbers from the brochure.
600 seems pretty good for that hitch. I know I paid closer to 7 or 8 for mine. But I was a TT newb when I bought it and didn't shop around.
With an electric tongue jack, I don't need to use a pry tool to hitch up. Also, I can hook up easily on uneven ground or on an angle. Just some things to think about when buying a wdh.

Grit dog: The old hitch is bolted onto the old trailer. Also, the trailer dealer said the 4 point Equalizer he wants to sell me installed for 6 bills, will make "a world of difference".

Krobbe: Dry wt of the Kodiak is 4306 lbs, the Rockwood 2605S is 5079, so 773 lbs heavier!! It isn't 890 lbs, but it is more than I thought (500). Thanks for pointing that out.

With the old WD, which had chains and slider-brake-bar for sway, it was a synch to adjust: simply pick a different link on the chain.

With the Equalizer it appears you have to screw around with washers, which involves removing bolts. That seems a pain.

On the Reese dual cam system it appears that you could adjust the WD by choosing a new link, but is that true? You also have to drill holes to mount which sucks.

Is there a WD-sway system out there that can easily be adjusted and doesn't require drilling?

Also, as far as the Trailblazer goes: it has a 5.3L V8 with 3.42 rear end, same drivetrain as a Silverado. It is also worth only $2500 on trade-in, and the most I was offered was a mere $3350 selling it myself. There is absolutely no reason not to continue trying to destroy it, something I have been trying real hard to do towing all these miles, but so far GM corporation is making me a very proud owner. The **** thing looks and runs like brand new.

The Rockwood dry weight is 890# heavier than the Kodiak. That increases your tongue weight by about 115# (depending on how you load it). I would try towing it with the wdh you have and see how it works. It certainly wouldn't hurt to upgrade the wdh though. I do like my Equal-i-zer.

donn0128 wrote:
Your TB will hate you!
Towing anywhere clost to the limits will do serious harm to your vehicle and your attitude. That thing is simply not strong enough to work well.

Read before you speak donno. Evidently the OP is cool with it already given the 50kmi he's towed his current trailer, haha
To the Op, why would you think you need a new hitch since you appear to be fine with the one you have and your new trailer is basically the same size.
Save your pennies I say. Besides you can upgrade hitch later if you don't like it. Don't create a solution to a problem you don't have.

Who says there's a weight increase? The new trailer could actually be lighter.

The difference is in the GVWRs of the trailers, not their actual weights.

If the old hitch is still in good shape and working for you there is no sense in buying a new one.

the weight increase should not be an issue, however the balance is probably not the same as the current trailer so could put you way over on payload. hitch adjustments or replacement could be in order but I agree try what you have 1st.