based on your spec sheet the GVWR minus UVW = payload (what they now call NCC). payload is the total weight you can add to the MH without violating the GVWR, in your case 3568 pounds. but...and like me in a former life it's a big but...that does not take into account any options added by the dealer. and the dealer may not know how much weight he has added. and unless you actually get individual axle weights you won't know where that payload is. in 2000 we were looking at a nice class A and at the urging of a friend who was a lot more knowledgeable than we were we insisted that the dealer get certified axle weights. after he did and we computed the added weight of full fresh water and LP tanks we discovered that the rear axle was overweight by a lesser amount than the front axle was underweight. and that was before we added food, clothing, stuff and people. had we just had the MH weighed with both axles on the scale it would've appeared that the MH weighed less than it's GVWR. this is why it is vital to load your MH the way you plan to use it, get individual axle weights and then compare those weights against the published gross-axle weight ratings (you may have to call the MFG or dealer for that). add the two actual axle weights together, subtract that from the GCWR and then apply the three conditions I wrote about in the other post.
be sure you know which hitch is installed...it's likely to be a Class III but with an 8000-lb difference between the GCWR and GVWR it may be a Class IV. assuming you have a Class III (5000-lbs) and, for illustration purposes only, assuming your MH will weigh out at 18,000-lbs (neither axle overweight) your maximum safe towing capability will be 5000-lbs, not the difference between the GCWR (26,000-lbs) and the GVWR (18,000-lbs). that's because your hitch is the weakest link (and that assumes that your tow bar can handle at least 5000-lbs). if you have a Class IV hitch (10,000-lbs) and making the same assumptions you can safely tow 8,000-lbs assuming your tow bar can handle that much weight.
so why not just assume your towing capacity is GCWR-GVWR? because you haven't taken into the account the weakest link...the tow bar and the hitch.
and because your loaded-as-you-travel MH, or even the actual weight (by axle) of your empty MH, may actually weigh more than the GVWR which will further decrease your towing capacity in addition to creating handling issues, increase braking distances and decreasing life expectancy on shocks, springs, etc.
and because you should know what your rig and toad weigh...not assume that everything is OK. understand, i'm not implying that this is what you're doing..quite the contrary.
this stuff isn't sexy and it does take some time to accomplish but it's well worth the hassle. my suspicion, based on comments seen in this and other forums and from campground conversations I've had over the past 26-seasons, is that there a lot of overweight motorhomes on the road towing vehicles they shouldn't be towing. or at least a lot of owners who don't have a clue, and don't really care to know. what their rigs weigh. don't be one of them.
