Forum Discussion
time2roll
Feb 23, 2014Nomad
I see two choices. And maybe utilize both.
1) "flip" the axle so the springs are mounted to the top rather than the bottom. I think this will give 4" to 5" lift. If it proves more than needed it looks like you can drop an inch with existing optional position in the hangers. The current "higher" position in the hanger may also cause more flex and exacerbate the issue.
2) get a new axle made 2" to 4" wider. Will depend also on outside fender clearance. Probably not as expensive as it seems.
Springs seem Ok to me. Some do have more arc specification but you are then messing with the suspension geometry that a spring shop probably should give an opinion. And it may not be enough lift.
Looks to me the axles were fitted to the frame width and not the box width sitting on the frame.
If it only rubs when fully loaded maybe you need to get on a scale. If suspension is running at very max maybe new springs, axles, wheels, tires are in order.
I did swap from 1750 to 2250 springs in my pic above. Rides great.
1) "flip" the axle so the springs are mounted to the top rather than the bottom. I think this will give 4" to 5" lift. If it proves more than needed it looks like you can drop an inch with existing optional position in the hangers. The current "higher" position in the hanger may also cause more flex and exacerbate the issue.
2) get a new axle made 2" to 4" wider. Will depend also on outside fender clearance. Probably not as expensive as it seems.
Springs seem Ok to me. Some do have more arc specification but you are then messing with the suspension geometry that a spring shop probably should give an opinion. And it may not be enough lift.
Looks to me the axles were fitted to the frame width and not the box width sitting on the frame.
If it only rubs when fully loaded maybe you need to get on a scale. If suspension is running at very max maybe new springs, axles, wheels, tires are in order.
I did swap from 1750 to 2250 springs in my pic above. Rides great.
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