Weight causing tires to rub inside of trailer
When my Maverick (utv) is loaded in the garage of my toy hauler its causing the trailer to sag... naturally. But this past weekend I had a blowout and discovered it was because when going around turn...
Forum Discussion
That's good that your GVWR is 8800 lbs with 4400 lb axles. The info. I got from a dealer's site was wrong then.
If a person were to predict where you'd get cracks in the frame, it's where you can see them in your photos. Picture the bottom of the spring hangers swinging left to right all the time like a pendulum with the fulcrum being at the bottom of the cross-bracing where it attaches to the I-beam. It ends up being a case of when it will crack, not "if"... I would think you need gussets from the cross-bracing to the top and bottom of the beams in the area of the axles. Some type of gussets or bracing on the outer side of the I-beams will help a lot. It doesn't look like you need it, but a section of 2x2 welded to the underside of the beams from the rear-most spring hanger to the front-most would help to strengthen things up. If you did that, you could use 4" tall spring hangers which would help too.
The axles could be somewhat bent and aligment should be checked. I'd also check welds to see if any have failed. A frame shop told me that welds should be continuous at joints and I think they (the frame manufacturer) often only does partial welds, and this would make it easier for them to fail/crack.
Again, a good frame shop will recommend the best way to handle it.
Curious - what height is your I-beam and is it a one-piece type? What is the dimension of the cross-bracing and where is it located?
If a person were to predict where you'd get cracks in the frame, it's where you can see them in your photos. Picture the bottom of the spring hangers swinging left to right all the time like a pendulum with the fulcrum being at the bottom of the cross-bracing where it attaches to the I-beam. It ends up being a case of when it will crack, not "if"... I would think you need gussets from the cross-bracing to the top and bottom of the beams in the area of the axles. Some type of gussets or bracing on the outer side of the I-beams will help a lot. It doesn't look like you need it, but a section of 2x2 welded to the underside of the beams from the rear-most spring hanger to the front-most would help to strengthen things up. If you did that, you could use 4" tall spring hangers which would help too.
The axles could be somewhat bent and aligment should be checked. I'd also check welds to see if any have failed. A frame shop told me that welds should be continuous at joints and I think they (the frame manufacturer) often only does partial welds, and this would make it easier for them to fail/crack.
Again, a good frame shop will recommend the best way to handle it.
Curious - what height is your I-beam and is it a one-piece type? What is the dimension of the cross-bracing and where is it located?
jgos929 wrote:myredracer wrote:
Another thought, have you ever weighed your TH before and after loading the utv to see where you are against the GVWR? Our KZ Spree is exactly the same length as your KZ TH. It looks like you have the same 3500 lb axles. Your GVWR is 7000 vs 6800 lbs for ours. Based on our experience with scale wt. after being all loaded up, you may not have much CCC before you load the utv in. If we were to tow with just one full tank of water, we'd be overloaded. I wonder if you've been towing overloaded for some time and didn't realize it? That might explain why the springs have lost some of their arch?
My axles are 4400# and my GVWR is 8800# I haven't weighed it yet but I don't think I'm overloading it. But weighing it is on my to do list for sure now just so I have piece of mind.
