Looking to buy a new TV to replace 2001 F150 to tow our 2008 Rockwood 8313SS.We are looking at a F150 (5.0 or the ecoboost) or a Tundra.What should we look for specifically when looking at towing limits/ratings. GVWR, GCWR, We just want to make sure we read the door sticker correctly and know what numbers we need to watch for.

You need 13% to 15% of the FULLY LOADED TT weight on the TV tongue. Almost always the TV limit is its tongue weight spec. Not the receiver spec, the VEHICLE spec. When we went looking in 2010 Ford, Chevy, in fact almost every SUV or pickup we looked at had a spec the dealer could easily find.BUTWe were told Toyota doesn't spec tongue weight so they can avoid any litigation from folks using them to tow. True, no idea, but certainly Toyota was unable to provide any proof of specs in ANY printed literature. Personally we crossed Toyota off as a potential TV. Hopefully you will have better luck.Do remember if salesman says anything, it does not count unless he can back up his works with manufacturer documentation.

Chuck&Gail wrote:We were told Toyota doesn't spec tongue weight so they can avoid any litigation from folks using them to tow. True, no idea, but certainly Toyota was unable to provide any proof of specs in ANY printed literature. Personally we crossed Toyota off as a potential TV. Hopefully you will have better luck.Do remember if salesman says anything, it does not count unless he can back up his works with manufacturer documentation.Often, "what we're told" and "what's true" are not remotely related. I think the salesman you spoke with needs to take some coursework at Toyota University if he/she wants to sell trucks to educated buyers. There is no conspiracy for Toyota to avoid litigation...they, like every other automaker, get sued all the time. Toyota lists the following in the Tundra owner's manual:1. Vehicle capacity weight - the weight of all occupants, cargo and tongue weight.2. Max trailer weight.3. GCWR4. Recommended tongue weight (defined as 9-11% of gross trailer weight for trailers, 19-21% for fivers/goosenecks)Additionally, they list the GVWR and GAWR, plus other info, on the certification label on the driver's door jamb.

BenK wrote:Below is my diagram showing how the specifications/limits/ratings system worksBest to weigh your setup axle by axle fully loaded ready to go. If you don'thave one or the other, then use their GVWR's as the potential max...if you loadeverything like most do...few are truly light in the stuff they loadAlso, decide if you believe in the ratings or not. If not, then do whatever but a new 2013, assume still under warranty. so knowthat if they find out over loaded, warranty might be denied (I would if I wasthe OEM)If yes, then check out the below diagram, gather the specifications for 'your'TV and plug in the actual weights to do the simple math. You have found out that it is not all about go, but the ratings are the truemeasure. You will get tons of 'sure you can', etc, etc advice, but there is onlyone person responsible for the setup and that is the driver, who might not bethe OP, but a buddy or spouse. Then the OP should ask themselves if the adviserswould pay for any overload break down?I do not advise with the 'your are good for it', 'sure you can', 'no you can not'but provide the metrics for the OP's to figure it out themselves...I have to sleep at nite as I take providing advice seriously...This is NOT a half ton can't tow anything...everything can towand then they also have specifications/limits/ratings on what theyare 'rated' to tow.Just that half tons have lower ratings and head room than bigger trucksThen note that there is a huge spread on 'half tons'. From less than6.2K GVWR to over 8.1K GVWR (I call them fake half tons). So manyget bit by hearing/reading of a 'half ton' doing whatever but missor the poster didn't say they have one of those fake half tons. I'vegotten several PMs about that and one guy so mad he wanted to sue theguy telling everyone a half ton can, but he had one of those fakehalf tons...so this guy who PM'd me burned up his diff towing whathe though all half ton's can because one guy said he does and advisethat guy he too could...another thread titled: New guy needs helpBenK wrote:Welcome to the forum !First decide if you believe in the OEM specifications/limits/ratings or notIf not, then do whatever but note that if there is warranty left...theOEM may be denied. If no warranty, then you have taken the OEM off theliability hookIf yes, then read up and ask lots of questionsThere is a huge difference in how a question is asked or answered'Can do' is way different from 'should do' or 'rated for' The specifications, limits and ratings is a 'system' and most takea single rating as an absolute or out of context....like your referenceto your TV's MTWR (Max Tow Weight Rating)Meaning that, those MTWR's are only a true rating within the fine print of the OEM's specifications Meaning that they derived those MTWR's from a 'curb' weight TV, whichis the 'stripper' model with no options other than the tow optionand one 150lb driver. Some full fluids, others partially filledBest is to weigh your TV's fully loaded...axle by axle. That is theonly way to figure out your 'true' MTWRYou should gather these ratings for both your TV'sGVWRFGAWRRGAWRGCWRThen do the simple math to figure out your true MTWRSome come here looking for confirmation of what they want to hearor what they have already decided on....they WILL get many advisersthat will do exactly that...just ask yourself if those advisers willprovide the funds for warranty or whatever cost an overloaded TVmight sufferThis image shows how the ratings system looks like in graphical formhowmuchcanitow

If the door sticker lists a "maximum cargo weight," that's the one which will be most useful to you.You then need to know:1. The weight of wife, kids, and whatever else you put in the truck to go camping.2. The tongue weight of the trailer, as it is ready to go camping.If 1 + 2 <= cargo weight capacity of the truck, you are golden.

What acronym should I look for when buying a new TV

APT
Explorer
Jul 19, 2013
Details on their new TV!
Ron3rd
Explorer III
Jul 19, 2013
love2rvcamp wrote:
We got a new 2013 F250. We are good to go.

Very good choice. Which engine did you get?
Fisherguy
Explorer
Jul 18, 2013
love2rvcamp wrote:
We got a new 2013 F250. We are good to go.

Congrats on the new truck!
You go with the diesel?

(You know no one's going to notice what you posted and will keep giving your advice, right?) :W
tatest
Explorer II
Jul 18, 2013
GCWR, but it won't be in the door, rather in the owner's manual, tabulated across models, engines, axle ratios, whatever matters. Finding out the axle ratio might not be simple, if that's a GCWR factor.

GVWR and axle weight ratings, and corresponding tire sizes and pressures, will be on the DOT certifcation sticker in the door. That will be relevant to towing also, because you have to carry the weight from the trailer hitch within those limits. But finding out weight already on the truck won't be easy either.
love2rvcamp
Explorer
Jul 18, 2013
We got a new 2013 F250. We are good to go.
pappcam
Explorer
Jul 17, 2013
A 1/2 ton with a towing package would be fine for an occasional pull to closer campgrounds but if you're planning on touring around I'd look at a 3/4 ton.
ReferDog
Explorer
Jul 17, 2013
Stay off the 1/2 tons, get 3/4 and you will have enough, gas or diesel,things change over time you might want a heavier unit later on.
petenewell
Explorer
Jul 15, 2013
There is a lot of good info in this thread. BurbMan and JBarca have excellent suggestions, in fact John's could be a sticky.

The details about "How To" get this right are here, the real issue is what you will talk yourself into based on other variables. Don't take this personally, we all do it to some extent or another.

The classic is someone that has a half ton, does not want to buy a new truck, then tows or hauls something that is too heavy. They then talk themselves into believing that it is OK because others do it or because they did not crash on that first trip.

This is hypothetical, I'm not putting words in your mouth, but lets say your DW was pressuring you to get the 1/2 ton, and or one of the imports because she likes those trucks for her needs. You could feel pressured to make that vehicle OK for towing and talk yourself into it when you shouldn't.

Like I said I think many of us do this to some extent or another. You are in a GREAT position in that you can start fresh and buy the exact right thing.
campigloo
Explorer
Jul 10, 2013
Lot's of math available just to make sure you get the bare minimum truck required to do the job. You're investing a lot of money so why not invest enough to get good performance, comfortable driving and a safe ride that won't stress the vehicle?
BurbMan
Explorer II
Jul 08, 2013
I'll just re-post my answer to the same question you asked in this thread. Ask the question any way you like, the answer is going to be the same....do the math of what you are planning to carry and tow, and see what your capacity requirements are. No acronym is going to do the math for you. In fact, I already did the math for you.

hmknightnc wrote:
Since you are buying a new TV and to ensure you don't end up with something on the edge or giving you poor performance I would recommend you do the following
- Look up your TT GVWR (not dry weight) and multiple that by 15%
- Count the number of people going traveling and multiply by 250
- Guestimate the amount of stuff you will have in truck
- add 400# for fuel and hitch

Add all of the above up and then look for truck with a door sticker payload/cargo capacity with that number or greater. This will get you truck that more than meets your needs for TT hauling.

Good advice and I'll try to help fill in the blanks...this model 2008 Rockwood 8313SS camper has a dry weight of 6501 and GVWR of 7784. Let's say the loaded weight is 7500 lbs. 7500 x 15% = 1125. Since 15% is on the upper edge of tongue weight ranges we'll assume that includes the hitch itself.

OP's signature says wife and 2 kids, so we'll estimate that people and cargo are 200 lbs each. 200 x 4 = 800 lbs. I believe that the factory sticker that shows cargo or payload capability already assumes a full tank of fuel.

So, 1125 + 800 = 1925 is the minimum cargo weight that you should be looking for. If you click the link above to the Ford website, there are number of 150's that will provide this level of cargo capacity and safely tow that Rockwood.