Forum Discussion
Old-Biscuit
May 07, 2016Explorer III
If you have a Suburban.......
Electric and Propane have separate sets of t-stats
In outside compartment above gas valve.....rubber cover with 'Push To Reset'
The HI TEMP T-stats trip (170*F) and have to be MANUALLY reset.
Electric element is most likely fried BUT propane probably tripped the HI Temp T-stat
Hopefully you waited until tank cooled before adding any water.....Steel tank GLASS LINED..........HOT and then shock it with Cold Water
Now if you have an Atwood..
ECO (HI Temp T-stat) probably tripped
2013 model uses same set for electric and propane
Electric element most likely fried
Propane should work AFTER temp cooled to 110*F----self resetting t-stats
Fault Light ON....turn On switch OFF then 30 seconds later back ON to clear fault
Cold water into Hot tank....not AS bad due to tank being aluminum but can stress it with a thermal shock.
Best to ALWAYS let tank(s) cool
Electric and Propane have separate sets of t-stats
In outside compartment above gas valve.....rubber cover with 'Push To Reset'
The HI TEMP T-stats trip (170*F) and have to be MANUALLY reset.
Electric element is most likely fried BUT propane probably tripped the HI Temp T-stat
Hopefully you waited until tank cooled before adding any water.....Steel tank GLASS LINED..........HOT and then shock it with Cold Water
Now if you have an Atwood..
ECO (HI Temp T-stat) probably tripped
2013 model uses same set for electric and propane
Electric element most likely fried
Propane should work AFTER temp cooled to 110*F----self resetting t-stats
Fault Light ON....turn On switch OFF then 30 seconds later back ON to clear fault
Cold water into Hot tank....not AS bad due to tank being aluminum but can stress it with a thermal shock.
Best to ALWAYS let tank(s) cool
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