Winterizing tip.

Personally I avoid ever using that pressure relief valve at all ... over time deposits build up and that darned valve will often not properly close again. JMO, but leave it alone, you can relieve pressure in the entire water system by opening a few faucets. ;)

I lift mine every time I drain the water heater. Hasn't hurt anything. Been doing it this way with 3 TT's now. Unlike the water heater in a house, which never get's opened, unless it pops from over pressure. In a house, or one that never gets opened, yea, they might not seat back right again. If opened frequently, never a problem.

That trick also works well when filling the tank.

I lift that valve, too, but I have also found opening a low point drain will make it come out really fast.

Opening any hot water tap inside the RV will do the same. I never found a need to mess with a safety valve. I also open a hot water tap in our TT when filling the hot water tank.

Johno02 wrote:
Just a quick tip for a few new folks out there to help with winterizing. When you are draining your water heater, after removing the drain plug, or opening drains, raise the lever on the safety valve on the water heater tank. This lets air into the tank much quicker, and lets the water drain out a lot faster. After it all drains, be sure to return the valve to its closed or normal position.

2oldman wrote:
That trick also works well when filling the tank.

I use it both ways the more you use it the cleaner it stays!!
It is direct air into the tank when draining. When filling it is open until water cones out, flushing crud out of the valve.

3oaks wrote:
Opening any hot water tap inside the RV will do the same. I never found a need to mess with a safety valve. I also open a hot water tap in our TT when filling the hot water tank.

Not necessarily, at least with my trailer anyway. I have always drained the system completely between trips and in my old trailer opening the taps would ensure the hot water tank drained out through the low point drains. Emptying that way took a good 10 minutes, at least.

In my new trailer, even with the taps open the low point drains would stop after about a minute. I knew the tank was not draining completely, but couldn't figure out why. I finally realized there was a check valve in the hot out side of the tank (for winterizing). This actually prevented air from entering the top (hot side) of the tank and allowing the water to exit the cold side and out the low point.

The ONLY way mine will drain using the low points is by cracking the pressure relief valve to allow air in. I have to do the same when using the tank plug or it takes quite a while as it struggles for replacement air.

I did learn to stand well clear when opening the tank valve when the plug is out. Mine will shoot out 3-4 feet, and will fill your shoes quite quickly.

2oldman wrote:
That trick also works well when filling the tank.

The top of the tank needs an air bubble to act as an expansion tank. Loss of the air bubble is the leading cause of leaking PT valves. When filling, just un-bypass and turn on the water. Run a hot water tap to fill the tank to the hot water tap off.

I avoid opening the pressure/temperature relief valve on any water heater. I have seen too many problems when they are again closed, displaced o-rings, bad seating, spring issues. Opening a hot water faucet valve accomplishes the same when draining.