Winterizing water lines

As mentioned there's a cheap kit you can attach to the inlet side of your water pump.

http://www.amazon.com/Camco-36543-Pump-Converter-Winterizing/dp/B0006JJ588

Super simple.

I know several people that use the blow out method. I still prefer the pink stuff...kind of an idiot proof method, and I like knowing the last thing that went through the pump won't freeze.


The hand pump will work too (I actually use that for the short run from my city water inlet). But using the water pump for the rest is faster.

Thanks for the quick replies. Don't have to worry about hot water tank, it rusted out and already bypassed. I live in Kentucky and last year we had a cold winter and one line did burst. I read also about using a hand pump and putting it thru the hook up for city water, you know where you hook up a hose to the outside of the camper. Maybe this might be easier than hooking up a longer hose to the pump. Any advise about that way.
Also, I have never blew the lines out, but I do have what looks like the attachment that you use to blow the lines and I have an air compressor. I know I have lots of questions. Im trying my best.

sammy123 wrote:
This will be the first time I will be using rv antifreeze in my water lines in our Class C 1979 camper.
I know where the pump is located and know I need to have the antifreeze go thru the pump and into the lines... right? I guess I will disconnect the in line and put a longer piece of hose on that end and put the hose in the gallon jug and let it syphon... right?
I have no idea what I am doing but Im gonna give it a try.
We had a new toleit put in and the valve went bad because I did not winterize with antifreeze. I usually just drain the lines and this always worked, but I guess new valves need new ways. Any advise is appreciated. Thanks.

There are "aftermarket kits" available for what you're doing. Yes, you can just use AF only, just be sure to open the outside shower lines also, if it has one. Afterwards dump a little more AF into "P" traps & all holding tanks.If you are not familiar with the By-pass system & do not use it on your hot water tank, just be aware that by using ant-freeze for winterizing will require about 7-8 gallons. If the hot water tank is a 6-gallon.

Do a search on this forum for "winterizing" there is a lot of information available.

I prefer to not use AF in the lines at all. It's nice because I don't have to fight the residue and foam that it inevitably results at the faucets.
I also had an issue one year with AF turning to a nasty gelatin and getting in all the lines.
Either way will work but after 5 years of not using AF I am a believer of just using air.
YMMV

Well, it depends upon your location. If you are in an area that gets continuous below freezing, then yeah, you need antifreeze. However, if your area doesn't get below freezing for a sustained time, you can probably get away with just draining and "blowing" out the lines.

Just draining, will leave water in many places and if they freeze up, they can break lines, valves, etc. Best to hook up a compressor to the water inlet and put about 40#s of pressure in the lines and go around and open each and every valve, faucet, shower, water heater, etc until nothing but air comes out.

Then if you still feel you need antifreeze, what you mentioned above will work. Make sure you put antifreeze in all the sink P-traps and even some in the toilet bowl and both the black and gray tanks.

good luck

Ron

and open the valves for the low point drain lines; hot and cold. Ours are located near the water pump.

thru pump and through lines after you bypass the hot water heater. Make sure some comes out of each faucet and when you flush the toilet.
Do not forget to drain hot water tank and if you have outside shower