Wiring CRV to be towed by HR MH

There is an option 2a - a plug-n-play wire harness with diodes built in. Very simply install, as they are made for specific vehicles (no cutting wires). Here's the CRV one I used: http://www.etrailer.com/p-TM783120.html

Yes - the "duplexing brake and turn signals" issue Dale described does exist, but I haven't found it to be an issue.

We did option 2 on our CRV which seems like the easiest setup for hooking up and unhooking our tow vehicle. Great analysis by Dale, Traveling.

not applicable to the cRV but when I used a pickup with cap as a toad, I permanently mounted tail lights on the cap making an easy install.
bumpy

Bought a wiring kit from Demco that plugs into a special socket already in place behind the left rear side panel,

I use magnetic lights. I put circles of clear window tint on the paint on the roof. I ran a permanent run of wires from the front to the rear and added a connecter near the lights so I can unplug the lights when not in use.

I have no idea what the newer CRV rear lights look like these days, but the '06 assemblies had a completely blank reflector in them. So mine are wired direct to the coach with no splicing into the existing harness at all

Thanks for the advice, I'll install the Blue ox system!

Option 1 Magnetics. Magnetics will be a problem because of the rear spare tire on the CRV being in the way. The bumper you can see and touch is mostly plastic so I'm not sure if there's enough metal for the magnetics to grab. You can probably stick the lights to the roof just not sure if 60 MPH+ winds when going down the road will push them around.

Option 2 Existing Lights. Taping into the installed lights are going to cause problems. The coach duplexes the brake and turn signal lights. Normally not a problem but if you add a supplemental brake to the CRV the CRV's internal braking indication will over ride the flashing turn signal indication. You can bypass this problem with one of THESE or something similar which has a secondary effect of diode elimination. With the box you tap into both the brake light wire and each turn signal. The hard part is you'll have to figure out the wiring harness in the CRV to tap into the correct wires for each side of the CRV. Brakes, turn signals and night time running lights.

Option 3 New Lights. Drilling holes for secondary lights is pretty simple and direct unless you're uncomfortable permanently altering the lights. One down side is buying a large drill bit you'll probably never use again, unless you talk Effy out of his.

I did option 2 on an 05 CRV. Took a couple of hours but wasn't to hard working out the wires using a meter. Running the coach signal wire from under the dash all the way back was also simple. All the panels side just pop off and you can access the edge of the carpet to tuck the signal wire under. On my CRV the harness for the rear lights runs along the passenger side of the car and I tapped into the harness behind the rear panel where the jack is stored.

For the average shade tree mechanic/RV owner I would recommend option 3.

Moved from class A forum

I used the magnetic lights, didn't want to cut into existing wiring with diodes, etc. what year is your crv? can it be towed 4 down?
bumpy