wiring rats nest

I believe you need a adapter from 4 to 7 wire. google on how to wire it up

I feel your pain. can't help with advice but just sharing your pain with this wiring rats-nest story.

I got the Starcraft OFF-ROAD 14RT POPUP trailer which has 15-inch tires and enough room under the frame I could almost setup a hammock under it it and take a shady snooze.

First trip out off the power grid I snagged some wiring under the trailer and ripped it right out with me way out in NO-WHERE land...

I patched up the best I could and made it back home OK.

Then I crawled under the trailer and all of the wiring that came from the top cabinet areas came thru a two inch hole and went everywhere under the trailer to get from point A to point B. No wiring protections or taped up cable path at all... You could even see daylight thru the two inch hole through the floor.

I thought about it for awhile then ripped out everything and installed 3/4-inch PVC conduit in a circle path following the main frames. All got neatly attached everywhere and everything out of harms way.

It ended up looking like the floor plan drawing I did for the wiring mod shown in BLUE.


Was alot of work but I ended up with a great wiring protection plan in the end. Now I can fish new wiring through the PVC conduit runs and junction boxes anytime I need to.

I certainly feel your pain...

Roy Ken

Or an option is to use wireless magnetic lights and forget about it. Many brands out there. There just as easy to setup as as connecting the cable to the MH & toad. Just need to keep them charged.

Curt,
I've been in your situations way more than I care to admit. I actually kind-a like this sort of stuff. I like taking someone elses screw-ups and re-engineering them so they are cleaner and more efficient. Here's my thoughts on your issues.

1. Unravel all the coiled up wiring.
2. Remove the plug from the rear of the coach
3. Cut the unraveled bunch of wires off to the appropriate length that will easily fit back into the back of the trailer plug without strain on any of the wires.
4. Using your test light, (after you get it working for sure), start finding each and every circuit at the newly cut off ends.
5. That is, turn on the left turn/brake and mark it. Then the right turn/brake, mark it, etc. etc. etc.


Now, you can re-wire the trailer plug. If it doesn't have a wiring diagram on the trap door of the plug as some do, then you can get the schematic of where to put each circuit on line or at any number of sources. Once that's done, re-check all the circuits to make sure that, you've not cross wired them. Don't ask me how I know about that...

Once all circuits check out, then you move on to the umbilical cord. You plug it in to your newly wired trailer plug on your coach. And, then check each circuit at the other end of the umbilical to see what's what in terms of where they are on the plug and, if they correspond to the typical schematics for your particular plug.

Once that's done and you're sure the system is working correctly all the way to the end of the umbilical, then comes the toad. From this point on, you should be able to handle it. Good luck. And by the way, while I'm not up on each and every vehicle made, especially motor homes, I'd bet my house that yours is NEGATIVE grounded. And, that simply means that you need to make sure that where you attach the alligator clip end of your test light is good and clean and a good source for your ground.

Once that's done, they you're off and running for the rest of your tests.
Scott