Yeah it's a tad cool here....
So here I am in Calgary Alberta, doing my best to work max hours and build stuff..... Brilliant Bob brings the TT and figures, yeah, I'll save big time on motels and all that. Well, the weath...
Forum Discussion
I didn't get a notice of your reply post, but saw it as I checked back to see how you were making out.
Glad to hear you are still...thawed out :)
A two-stage regulator has two separate 'pancakes' with each one reducing the pressure of the bottled gas. I don't recall what portions, but the first takes it down so far and the second takes it the rest of the way.
This allows a high pressure line to be routed over long distances and to some high flow appliances, which often have their own secondary regulators. There are some appliances that connect directly to high pressure lines without a regulator, but I don't know of any in an RV (think 'Industrial' equipent, some stoves, etc)
It has to do with flow rates and to some extent icing up of the regulator.
To understand the issue, think about an air conditioner. It compressed the refrigerant so it can be allowed to expand, which ABSORBS HEAT from the surroundings (usually air).
Your regulator is doing something very similar. A liquid is allowed to vaporize in the tank, then that gas expands as the pressure is reduced in the regulator.
Especially in cold weather, the regulator can freeze up, as well as the rate of vaporization of the liquid in the tank can be reduced. These are cumulative effects, and viola....no propane flow :(
Lower levels of propane in the tank make this more likely. That's one reason the larger tanks are better in cold weather.
When we added a couple of ventless fireplaces in our house, our outoor regulator would occasionally ice up, especially when the tank was low. That is when I was told about the hot water trick- cold weather, power outage, NEEDED heat ;)
Some RV's run a high pressure line from the tank to certain places in the RV and then it is reduced at that point. I think this is more likely in a very large RV with big appliances, but I don't know the criteria for mfr's decisions, just mentioning it.
A high pressure regulator (or single, first stage) is usually RED.
If you use a two stage setup, you would likely have a RED regulator that attaches to the tank, a short piece of pipe (often comes preassembled), then a secondary regulator, then to your RV's supply lines.
Another item worth mentioning. Turn your flames up high on the stovetop and look at the flames. They should be BLUE, not yellow. A little yellow tip is okay, but if there is a lot of sputtering or yellow flames inside the blue, you can make improvements.
First, the quality of your propane is important. Most people never worry about it, but there is a company whose pitch is using HD5 propane, which they tout as high quality and lower consumption. I don't know how this plays out in practice, but maybe someone will chime in on this?
Second, There is often an air adjustment that can be tweaked.
Third, Make sure your gas tubes/orifice, air tubes, etc are cleaned of debris, rust, spider webs, dust, etc.
Fourth, Test your lines for leaks. You can use soap suds on your connections, take a look at your o-rings in your tank connectors, etc for leaks. Small leaks drain tanks.
Alternatively, you can purchase a propane pressure gauge/tester kit. It comes in a case with gauge, some hose, and a few adapters. You can connect it to a stove orifice (NOT LIT!) and turn on the burner valve. Wait a minute or so and record the pressure reading. (All appliances must be turned off).
Then turn off your outside tank and watch the gauge inside for a minute or three and make sure it doesn't drop after a possible initial, very minimal drop. If it drops, you have a leak somewhere.
I am suggesting these things for you, as you are pushing your system to its limits. Any of these items can have a significant impact on your situation and are worth testing.
Keep it turned up, so to speak ;)
A catalytic heater, like an Olympic Wave can be helpful and are more efficient than your furnace and very good at radiant heat (comforting) while using little propane. Just be sure to allow for proper ventilation.
Hope these things help.
Glad to hear you are still...thawed out :)
A two-stage regulator has two separate 'pancakes' with each one reducing the pressure of the bottled gas. I don't recall what portions, but the first takes it down so far and the second takes it the rest of the way.
This allows a high pressure line to be routed over long distances and to some high flow appliances, which often have their own secondary regulators. There are some appliances that connect directly to high pressure lines without a regulator, but I don't know of any in an RV (think 'Industrial' equipent, some stoves, etc)
It has to do with flow rates and to some extent icing up of the regulator.
To understand the issue, think about an air conditioner. It compressed the refrigerant so it can be allowed to expand, which ABSORBS HEAT from the surroundings (usually air).
Your regulator is doing something very similar. A liquid is allowed to vaporize in the tank, then that gas expands as the pressure is reduced in the regulator.
Especially in cold weather, the regulator can freeze up, as well as the rate of vaporization of the liquid in the tank can be reduced. These are cumulative effects, and viola....no propane flow :(
Lower levels of propane in the tank make this more likely. That's one reason the larger tanks are better in cold weather.
When we added a couple of ventless fireplaces in our house, our outoor regulator would occasionally ice up, especially when the tank was low. That is when I was told about the hot water trick- cold weather, power outage, NEEDED heat ;)
Some RV's run a high pressure line from the tank to certain places in the RV and then it is reduced at that point. I think this is more likely in a very large RV with big appliances, but I don't know the criteria for mfr's decisions, just mentioning it.
A high pressure regulator (or single, first stage) is usually RED.
If you use a two stage setup, you would likely have a RED regulator that attaches to the tank, a short piece of pipe (often comes preassembled), then a secondary regulator, then to your RV's supply lines.
Another item worth mentioning. Turn your flames up high on the stovetop and look at the flames. They should be BLUE, not yellow. A little yellow tip is okay, but if there is a lot of sputtering or yellow flames inside the blue, you can make improvements.
First, the quality of your propane is important. Most people never worry about it, but there is a company whose pitch is using HD5 propane, which they tout as high quality and lower consumption. I don't know how this plays out in practice, but maybe someone will chime in on this?
Second, There is often an air adjustment that can be tweaked.
Third, Make sure your gas tubes/orifice, air tubes, etc are cleaned of debris, rust, spider webs, dust, etc.
Fourth, Test your lines for leaks. You can use soap suds on your connections, take a look at your o-rings in your tank connectors, etc for leaks. Small leaks drain tanks.
Alternatively, you can purchase a propane pressure gauge/tester kit. It comes in a case with gauge, some hose, and a few adapters. You can connect it to a stove orifice (NOT LIT!) and turn on the burner valve. Wait a minute or so and record the pressure reading. (All appliances must be turned off).
Then turn off your outside tank and watch the gauge inside for a minute or three and make sure it doesn't drop after a possible initial, very minimal drop. If it drops, you have a leak somewhere.
I am suggesting these things for you, as you are pushing your system to its limits. Any of these items can have a significant impact on your situation and are worth testing.
Keep it turned up, so to speak ;)
A catalytic heater, like an Olympic Wave can be helpful and are more efficient than your furnace and very good at radiant heat (comforting) while using little propane. Just be sure to allow for proper ventilation.
Hope these things help.
