Your Torque Wrench?

I remember when we were kids, yes I can remember that far back, we would rebuild several engines over the course of the summer. We didn't have a torque wrench. We measured by the grunt. 2 grunts to loosen it - 2 grunts to tighten it.:B

1492 wrote:
I always torque to specs. Especially if any tires were replaced or inspected using impact wrenches. Few take the effort to use torque bars.

Case in point, I recently bought new tires for my van. When I went to take the tires off to replace the hubcaps, the tire lugs wouldn't budge. They were likely torqued to around 250ft-lbs, when they should be at 95-100ft-lbs. Long story short, I ended up breaking one stem which was embedded in the lug, so had to replace the entire wheel hub. Not particularly difficult, but a pain as it was due for state safety inspection, and wouldn't have passed with one lug missing.

If you buy new tires, I'd recommend going back and re-torquing all your lugs yourself.

Craftsman - and Sears:
Unfortunately, if you haven't noticed... Sears is going down the tubes closing stores, etc.
Warranty, quality -and the "Craftsman Guarantee" on tools- is (or soon will be) a thing of the past..:(

I still have my Craftsman "beam type" TQ wrench from the 50's.
Torqued a lot of flathead head bolts, mains, etc. - still reliable.
(But plays distant 2nd fiddle to click type now)

The "shortie" TQ wrench at $39. is the equivalent of the $14 variety from Harbor Freight - maybe even the same Chinese mfgr!.
(The HF is a nice spare to leave in the RV).

Might be a good time for a "deal" at Sears. The local store by me in a high volume area - has a giant "Store Closing" sign.
(A return policy may be non-existent)

A *quality* TQ wrench from Snap-On, Proto (etc) will be in the $200 range (as stated). If you're a mechanic, you need/want "the best".

The 1/2' "click type" TQ wrench ($85) from Home Depot is perfect for
"shade tree" mechanics and RV use - it has a nice length for good leverage (the 1/2" HF cheapies are short).
The Depot wrench is approx the equivalent of the similar Craftsman that was about $100.

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Now to the post quoted above by Mod"1492"......

"If you buy new tires, I'd recommend going back and re-torquing all your lugs yourself."

The "case in point" refutes the first statement in the post.
"Going back" - is a day late and a dollar short!
Maybe a LOT of dollars short.:(

NO, NO, and NO - *NEVER* - allow over-torquing!!

The damage -or more damage- is likely already done..:(

1492 - if your van has aluminum wheels (many do) you should carefully check your wheels for cracks!

(I assume by "breaking one stem" - you mean braking a stud).
You should also carefully check (and/or) keep an eye on the other studs. They may break due to stretching.

"Taking the tires off to replace the hubcaps" is a bit confusing also..:h

Anyway...*YOUR* job - for/with *YOUR* wheels:

When buying new tires - *ALWAYS*- keep your eye on the guy mounting the wheels!

The correct procedure is to snug the lug nuts with his/the impact wrench, then tighten the lugs with a hand-held torque wrench.

Don't believe, "My impact is set for 85 pounds" or whatever.

An instant "click' by his Torque wrench - means he's running the lugs down too tight with the impact.
By then the torque spec is out the window!.:(

Don't be hesitant or reluctant to call a halt for a polite chat with the guy doing the work!

Remember - he may have been working at Mickey D's or Taco Bell last week, and being a tire shop "grunt" is *NOT* a career!..:R


~

I've got an thirty year old generic torque wrench. I've had I calibrated twice.
I wish I could find an old quality Craftsman. Guessing at torque, isn't my forte. I have twisted some bolts off. I know one Friend that twisted about every fastener, on engines off.
I had to have a set of aluminum wheels replaced because they used wrong nuts and then tightened them so much that breaker bar and piece of pipe still would not loosen them.
I insist they hand torque my wheel lug nuts. No torque sticks.

gbopp wrote:

BuckBarker wrote:
Don't forget that adding an extension onto the wrench so the socket will reach the lug nuts will change the torque reading. These wrenches are calibrated with a socket mounted directly onto the wrench.

I was instructed, from my navy days as an aircraft mechanic, that a socket extension will not change the accuracy of a torque wrench. It's just measuring the twisting force.

But, if you use a crows foot, it changes the length of the wrench and will effect the accuracy.

I learned something today. :?

Your Navy Days are correct an extension for getting into a wheel will NOT affect the reading, as long as you support the head of the wrench so that you are not pulling side ways. Use the shortest extension possible.

BuckBarker wrote:
Don't forget that adding an extension onto the wrench so the socket will reach the lug nuts will change the torque reading. These wrenches are calibrated with a socket mounted directly onto the wrench.

Sorry that's not true...

With an extension you must use two hands, on on the handle, one on the head.

coolbreeze01 wrote:
Harbor Freight torque wrenches work well, and you can buy a 1/4", 3/8", and a 1/2" for about the same money as one 1/2" name brand. Whatever you buy, after use, return the setting to zero.

Not necessarily "zero" (some wrenches do not have a "zero" on the scale), but the wrench should be stored at the lowest setting on the scale. It may be 5 or 10 inch or foot pounds, but that is where it should be stored.
NEVER adjust the wrench lower than the lowest setting.
As always, it pays to READ and FOLLOW the instructions that come with your wrench!

Harbor Freight torque wrenches work well, and you can buy a 1/4", 3/8", and a 1/2" for about the same money as one 1/2" name brand. Whatever you buy, after use, return the setting to zero.

gbopp wrote:

I was instructed, from my navy days as an aircraft mechanic, that a socket extension will not change the accuracy of a torque wrench. It's just measuring the twisting force.

But, if you use a crows foot, it changes the length of the wrench and will effect the accuracy.

I learned something today. :?

I also was an aircraft mechanic and you are absolutely right an extension will not change the torque.

nomad297 wrote:
I just found the 1/2" Craftsman micro-Click torque wrench is on sale at Sears online for $39.99. Is this the same one that most of you have said you own?

Bruce

That torque wrench will be fine for RV use. If you plan on engine rebuilding or vehicle restoration, a better torque wrench or two would be your choices. The most durable are brands like Proto, Snap-on, MAC, etc.but cost > $200.

12thgenusa wrote:

BuckBarker wrote:
Don't forget that adding an extension onto the wrench so the socket will reach the lug nuts will change the torque reading. These wrenches are calibrated with a socket mounted directly onto the wrench.

Straight extensions do not change the torque setting. Using anything that changes the distance from the handle to the center point of the fastener will, such as a crowfoot or a universal (swivel) socket.

If you want to be able to properly torque lug nuts (generally 100+ ft-lbs) as well as smaller fasteners, probably two torque wrenches are in your future.

This is true. Using a crowfoot or box end wrench with a hex at 90 degrees doesn't chsnge it much either.