Forum Discussion

lap527's avatar
lap527
Explorer
Sep 24, 2015

%&$# RV Refrigerator

Well the so-called testing is done on fridge...I could of sat down and cried! I am sooo disappointed and just couldn't bring myself to post late yesterday. The changing of the regulator helped, our temps on propane is the best it's ever been, 30.5 degrees. We left home about 9AM, fridge was on 30.9. We watched it go up and up. When we got to the folks house at noon or so it was 40.2. DH immediately got out, opened lower vent and the tubes in there were cold to the touch. As the camper sat in their yard it then started going back down. We left at 2:45 and the temp was 35.6. We arrived at the campground at 3:45 and it was back up to 39.0. I am sure if we had traveled any further it would of been in the 50s. We decided to leave it on propane and the fridge recovered quite nicely to the lower 30s and it was quick to rebound even after opening the door several times.

DH thought that the flame might be blowing out. However, from my reading after 3 times I don't think it would re-light again and the fridge needs to be restarted. My thoughts were on the pipes in the back. If they are cold then there is not enough heat to make the blasted thing cold. Now, is there to much air flow from the top side vent forcing the air back towards the bottom? Another forum member has same problems but he has a roof vent and we have the 2 side vents. Still yet another forum member has a unit just like ours and no problems at all. We also have the dometic baffle kit to protect the flame. We have even thought about adding some of type of loose woven insulation to the vents to slow down the air flow. The thing works great as long as you don't move the unit so we know it's not the fridge itself. After all the RVs we have owned this is the first time we have had a problem with the fridge. DH just wants to always take a cooler with us, which we do but that doesn't fix the problem. We didn't buy this thing to carry a cooler and ice with us. GRRRR....

30 Replies

  • Also remember that a thermometer that measures the AIR TEMP on the fridge is not accurate! Per my friend who is in the refrigeration biz the ONLY accurate way to assess temp is to place a thermometer probe in a cup of liquid. I had forgotten this tidbit from my past learning LOL.

    These small TC refrigerators can inc. dramatically in air temp and then take hours to cool back down. But the INTERNAL temps of the food in there may very well be within normal/safe limits.

    We had a small hanging mercury thermometer and also a digital probe with a wire. Both of those showed that refrigerator was "above safe limits" for multiple hours a day.

    But once I put the digital probe in a small cup of liquid (I used a large pill bottle and drilled a small hole in the top and add a dab of silicone to seal... make sure your probe is waterproof). The hanging thermometer showed that the air temp was "too warm" during multiple periods during the day , but the digital one stayed within the safe range for food. The pill bottle also made it easy to unscrew the cap and add water or clean bottle.

    But we did have to try numerous fixes including adding a baffle that kinda worked, but we then removed and replaced with the fan.

    If you are having trouble finding a waterproof probe, try using a kitchen thermometer. Just make sure they are calibrated low enough. They come in both wired and wireless versions that are usually cheaper than an "outside" waterproof thermometer.
  • You may want to check to see if there is a trap in the drain line. It is possible that when moving the cold refer air is sucked out through the vent.
    Use the dollar bill test to see if door is sealing. Insert dollar bill into door. Close door and see if when pulling dollar bill out has some resistance. Do this in several places.
  • Its probably under the fridge maker warranty. If its not working right make them replace it.
  • I've just come to accept temperature swings in an RV frig to be normal. If it is cold at the campsite, I'm a happy guy.
  • I,had these problems, turned out to be a bad door gasket put a bungee cord across the door five hours later it could freeze milk.
  • I'd give Livin Lite a call if you haven't. It seems strange to have so many issues with a fairly new TC. If it is blowing out, a baffle of some type will stop that.
  • sch911 wrote:
    Is the unit in a slide out? Do you have flue fans installed? IMHO You need more airflow in the flue while underway not less. This will provide better condensing. Ram (dynamic) airflow is likely pressuring the upper flue vent while you drive which reduces the condenser performance which relies only on convection. By adding flue blowers you can reverse this affect. Many fridges that are built into slides have these from the factory...

    No slide out, Yes we have a fan.
  • lap527, I realize you have a TC, and it is possible the TC design is the cause of your fridge issue, but I think this thread should be moved to the Tech Issues Forum. You will get responses from others that are very knowledgable on the Fridge. Unless you tell me otherwise, I will leave it here today, but move it this evening.

    Wayne
    Moderator
  • Is the unit in a slide out? Do you have flue fans installed? IMHO You need more airflow in the flue while underway not less. This will provide better condensing. Ram (dynamic) airflow is likely pressuring the upper flue vent while you drive which reduces the condenser performance which relies only on convection. By adding flue blowers you can reverse this affect. Many fridges that are built into slides have these from the factory...
  • Look at the distance between the coils and the outside wall. This should only be about one inch. Closing this up with a piece of foam board, will or should force more air over and through the cooling unit coils.
    You could use some thin sheet metal or some other non-combustible material. I used foam board held in place by Liquid Nails.