1000 watt inverters

Hi,

Why do you want a residential refrigerator?

Some say because of the size, others say they like ice at home, and the through the door ice is appealing!

Yet if you plan on boondocking, you might want to reconsider. A propane refrigerator has it's drawbacks, but uses very little power from the battery. The through the door ice maker uses a 300 watt heater during the 3-5 minutes of harvest time, and also would use fresh water tank water to make the ice. So if the fresh water pump is off, you will not be producing ice, say at night? or if you shut off the pump while out sightseeing. And many do not like to drink water from the tank, let alone make a bucket of ice from it. Personally I do drink from my fresh water tank, and use a good filter for my drinking water.

Then there is a problem with winterizing a ice machine equipped refrigerator.. . .

Do you plan on installing a solar system? One in the 400+ watt range would be recommended for a trailer with a residential refrigerator.

This place will sell a 140 watt solar panel for about $229. SunElec.com

And I would be recommending at least 4 golf cart batteries for a battery bank. This will store about 440 amp hours of power. Then the solar can recharge at night. THen you will not need a generator unless you plan on running the A/C.

Good luck with your purchase!

Fred.

My Energy Star 21 draws 32amps on startup (PSW inverter) which is within the four times running rule for most motors. I did put in a 1000W inverter but I'm powering a sat dish and TV too.

Ivylog wrote:
A 1000 W inverter is double what you need to run a home refrigerator. A properly installed system should have a transfer switch that automatically switches between shore power/inverter power plus outlets for the TV and satellite dish on it. The referr will draw 8 to 10 amps when it is running.

There is a starting surge before the running amount. I have a little 3.2 cu ft 120v fridge the TC that the inverter draws 4.5amps to run but draws maybe 30 amps or so (it happens faster than the Trimetric can keep up with, so I don't know the actual amount above 30 it gets to) on start up, that the inverter has to handle. (and so do the inverter-battery wiring and the batteries of course)

At that proportion, if the fridge draws 9 amps running it could draw 60 amps or so on start up, so using the "divide by ten rule" that is over 600w of inverter, so a 1000w inverter is good, but any less than that and you have to cross your fingers IMO.

A 1000 W inverter is double what you need to run a home refrigerator. A properly installed system should have a transfer switch that automatically switches between shore power/inverter power plus outlets for the TV and satellite dish on it. The referr will draw 8 to 10 amps when it is running.

Depends on how it is wired. Ask before you buy.

Aka the breeze wrote:
I may be looking to buy a new fifth wheel and not sure about converters... If a trailer has a residential fridge and an inverter... once you un plug from shore power , they should kick in ?? What about other outlets..... Or is the inverter tied into just that one outlet???

Edited on stupidity..... I kept typing converter..... Sorry gang

The inverter will not "kick in" unless so arranged. You can have an inverter that has a remote (or not remoted) on/off switch that turns it on when you want 120v and you are not on shore power or generator.

Yes, a 1000w inverter(MSW or PSW) will be big enough to run a 120v fridge. How much it draws from the battery bank doing that "depends" but it is quite a lot, so you need a big battery bank and a way to recharge that to keep up. EG typical would be four batteries and some solar plus run the gen/converter for an hour or so every morning to stay even.

The "kick in" part depends on the switching arrangements you have. Also whether the inverter is in an "inverter/charger" and has an internal switch for the 120v, never mind the possible separate switch for the shore power/generator if the rig has a built in gen.

Been several threads about various ways to wire it all up, so you have to describe the situation in more detail to get the right answer.

Converter's provide 12 VDC not AC!

Think inverter (like you stated in your title). Our rig has a 2KW inverter/charger which can do both. Provide 12 VDC, and 120V AC to some (not all) outlets. I'll run the microwave, TV's, Sat Dish, but not the A/C.