Hello friends,I have a 10/3 wire (my 30amp service line) from the inlet to the breaker box and between the two I have a cut in the insulation. I'm wanting to splice the wire and put in a new piece from the inlet to where the cut is which is only about 3ft from the inlet. It would a major pain to replace the entire wire as one piece so I'm thinking about installing a junction box and using wire nuts to piece the wire together. Is this a bad idea since it is the 30amp line? Will twisted wire with wire nuts hold up to those amps? My other option is a terminal connection but I don't have any experience with those. Your ideas?Thanks in advanceScott

If only the outer jacket is cut, tape it up and apply a coating such as 3M Scotchcoat.If conductor insulation is damaged, replace it completely.Wire should be 10/2 with ground, not 10/3!

enblethen wrote:If only the outer jacket is cut, tape it up and apply a coating such as 3M Scotchcoat.If conductor insulation is damaged, replace it completely.Wire should be 10/2 with ground, not 10/3!NO, on RV power cables they DO us a 10/3 cable where the ground (green) IS also 10 gauge.HERE a 25' replacement 30A RV cord which specifically states.."OUTDOOR RATED RV power cable has an 10/3 STW rating with 3-wire 10 gauge copper conductors; Flexible and weather-resistant 30amp RV electrical cord is engineered with a 600V rated thermoplastic STW cable jacket to prevent overheating "While I do agree under "normal" indoor wiring circumstances one would use 10/2 WITH ground (and ground would be one gauge lighter or 12 Ga), but for some reason 30A RV power cords the ground wire is the same ga as the current carrying conductors.Personally though, with any damage to the cable jacket, and it is very close to the RV, I would cut it off at the damaged area and shorten the cord. You would just remove the bad section back to the power center breaker box. You might lose perhaps a few feet of cable but in the end, you will not have moisture intrusion into the cable.If you find you need the entire cable length, you can buy new replacement power cords, one I linked above. Then the old cord you can buy a 30A female socket and turn it into a extension cable.Other alternate way is to pull the damaged section inside the RV, place a 4x4 electrical workbox inside, cut and splice the cable there which will shorten the cord very little. Typically workboxes should not be "hidden" behind paneling and such and I would recommend placing a label on the box explaining what it is for.

OP is talking the run between the shore power cord to the breaker panel.He is not talking shore power SO cord which you are correct is 10/3.

J-Box and wire nuts are fine. I also would be inclined to just tape it up depending on how it looks.I assume 10/2 vs 10/3 is just a nomenclature typo.Post a picture for best advice.

Thanks everyone for the input. Yes the wire I'm referring to is the indoor wiring from the back of the inlet to the breaker (power) box. Here is a picture of the wire where it is open and the two places I currently have tape.

10/3 Wire split | Good Sam Community

Lynnmor
Explorer
Nov 08, 2020
It is not necessary to twist the wires together before using a wire nut, just put them parallel and insert, then turn the wire nut till tight.
cavie
Explorer
Nov 08, 2020
icodeintx wrote:
Oh my... I was hoping not to hear "replace" :(

That wire goes under the floor, under the door and through the kitchen to the power box.

Master Electrician here. No need to replace it. j-box and wire nuts will be fine!.
cavie
Explorer
Nov 08, 2020
time2roll wrote:
cavie wrote:
time2roll wrote:
J-Box and wire nuts are fine. I also would be inclined to just tape it up depending on how it looks.

I assume 10/2 vs 10/3 is just a nomenclature typo.

Post a picture for best advice.

10/2 with ground is what is in the RV. A junction box, twisted wires and wire nuts are all the is required. Twise the wires first then add the wirenuts. 10/3 w ground is used if 240 volts.
Are you telling me? I know the difference. I believe the OP does too.
I don't think the thread is about what replacement wire to buy.

I was referring to your nomeclature type. 10/2 and 10'3 are not a typo. two different types od wire.
cavie
Explorer
Nov 08, 2020
cavie wrote:
time2roll wrote:
cavie wrote:
time2roll wrote:
J-Box and wire nuts are fine. I also would be inclined to just tape it up depending on how it looks.

I assume 10/2 vs 10/3 is just a nomenclature typo.

Post a picture for best advice.

10/2 with ground is what is in the RV. A junction box, twisted wires and wire nuts are all the is required. Twise the wires first then add the wirenuts. 10/3 w ground is used if 240 volts.
Are you telling me? I know the difference. I believe the OP does too.
I don't think the thread is about what replacement wire to buy.

I was referring to your nomenclature typo. 10/2 and 10/3 are not a typo. Two different types of wire.
cavie
Explorer
Nov 08, 2020
In the Romex world there is 10/2, 10/3 plane, and 10/3 with ground. 50-year master electrician here.
time2roll
Nomad
Nov 08, 2020
Technically you are correct. Kinda like calling it 110 and 220. We all know what is being said.

Of course if the OP was ordering wire on amazon the 10/2 vs 10/3 is very important.
MNRon
Explorer
Nov 08, 2020
I’m with Bumpyroad. As long as conductors aren’t damaged I’d just do a better electrical tape job around both conductors (a couple thicknesses of tape provides much more than 120v protection); then electrical tape over the whole “surgery”. Finally, you need to protect it from the type damage that occurred - that depends on space and what’s around; heat shrink probably sufficient, but only if nothing sharp or a rub hazard as it bounces down the road. Worst case you could encase it in a sleeve of pvc or something more protective.

If I was to bother with more, I’d probably replace the whole length of wire. Although box and wire nuts would be fine, frankly the wire nut junction has more potential for failure than a good tape up job on what you already have.

My 2 cents...
wnjj
Explorer II
Nov 08, 2020
MNRon wrote:
I’m with Bumpyroad. As long as conductors aren’t damaged I’d just do a better electrical tape job around both conductors (a couple thicknesses of tape provides much more than 120v protection); then electrical tape over the whole “surgery”. Finally, you need to protect it from the type damage that occurred - that depends on space and what’s around; heat shrink probably sufficient, but only if nothing sharp or a rub hazard as it bounces down the road. Worst case you could encase it in a sleeve of pvc or something more protective.

If I was to bother with more, I’d probably replace the whole length of wire. Although box and wire nuts would be fine, frankly the wire nut junction has more potential for failure than a good tape up job on what you already have.

My 2 cents...

x2
rhagfo
Explorer III
Nov 08, 2020
cavie wrote:
icodeintx wrote:
Oh my... I was hoping not to hear "replace" :(

That wire goes under the floor, under the door and through the kitchen to the power box.

Master Electrician here. No need to replace it. j-box and wire nuts will be fine!.

I agree with Cavie, I would add, I would use a 4-11/16” j-box much easier to work in with 10 gauge wire. My opinion is fix it right so if someone else sees it they feel you do repairs correctly. I would also twist the wires before putting on the wire nuts. With 14 or 12 gauge the parallel and twist on the nut will twist the wire also, 10 gauge not always.
One last thing put a cover on the j-box.
wa8yxm
Explorer III
Nov 08, 2020
enblethen wrote:
If only the outer jacket is cut, tape it up and apply a coating such as 3M Scotchcoat.
If conductor insulation is damaged, replace it completely.
Wire should be 10/2 with ground, not 10/3!

Full agreement Tape and seal or even just seal Lots of products out there good for this like Flex Seal or GOOP (Power off while sealing)

Also is the cut just in the OUTER jacket or is the wire itself exposed. IS the wire cut? If wire cut then splice properly if not just seal it up.

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