10/3 Wire split

Installed cabling wire convention does not include ground line. Portable cable wiring does include ground line in the wire count. So it’s 10/2 from the source to the installed jack and 10/3 cable from jack to RV 30amp rated inlet.

That is ugly.

splice NEEDS to be in a work box.

Better yet, can you trace back to where both ends of this wire goes and replace entire length?

Might want to consider finding better path to protect the cable from future damage..

Thanks everyone for the input. Yes the wire I'm referring to is the indoor wiring from the back of the inlet to the breaker (power) box. Here is a picture of the wire where it is open and the two places I currently have tape.

J-Box and wire nuts are fine. I also would be inclined to just tape it up depending on how it looks.

I assume 10/2 vs 10/3 is just a nomenclature typo.

Post a picture for best advice.

OP is talking the run between the shore power cord to the breaker panel.
He is not talking shore power SO cord which you are correct is 10/3.

enblethen wrote:
If only the outer jacket is cut, tape it up and apply a coating such as 3M Scotchcoat.
If conductor insulation is damaged, replace it completely.
Wire should be 10/2 with ground, not 10/3!

NO, on RV power cables they DO us a 10/3 cable where the ground (green) IS also 10 gauge.

HERE a 25' replacement 30A RV cord which specifically states..

"OUTDOOR RATED RV power cable has an 10/3 STW rating with 3-wire 10 gauge copper conductors; Flexible and weather-resistant 30amp RV electrical cord is engineered with a 600V rated thermoplastic STW cable jacket to prevent overheating "

While I do agree under "normal" indoor wiring circumstances one would use 10/2 WITH ground (and ground would be one gauge lighter or 12 Ga), but for some reason 30A RV power cords the ground wire is the same ga as the current carrying conductors.

Personally though, with any damage to the cable jacket, and it is very close to the RV, I would cut it off at the damaged area and shorten the cord.

You would just remove the bad section back to the power center breaker box. You might lose perhaps a few feet of cable but in the end, you will not have moisture intrusion into the cable.

If you find you need the entire cable length, you can buy new replacement power cords, one I linked above. Then the old cord you can buy a 30A female socket and turn it into a extension cable.

Other alternate way is to pull the damaged section inside the RV, place a 4x4 electrical workbox inside, cut and splice the cable there which will shorten the cord very little. Typically workboxes should not be "hidden" behind paneling and such and I would recommend placing a label on the box explaining what it is for.

If only the outer jacket is cut, tape it up and apply a coating such as 3M Scotchcoat.
If conductor insulation is damaged, replace it completely.
Wire should be 10/2 with ground, not 10/3!