110 volt water heater switch does no light.
Taint obvious how to check the bulb! Suggestions very welcome. Worked yesterday but we have been on seattle lousy bumpy roads today. Thanks all Attwood water heater in 2006 itasca 29r
Forum Discussion
NO there is NOT a reset for electric if overheated.
NO electric element can NOT be accessed from outside.
It is installed in the back of tank accessed from inside rv.
Tripped AC circuit breaker, blown DC fuse for control, bad DC relay, electric element burnt out.
IF water is very hot........normal t-stat is probably not opening.
But that depends on your definition of very hot.
Remember...t-stat is set for 140*F so straight water from hot side of faucet will be very hot......should be tempered with cold for use.
But if water is almost steaming coming out of faucet then it is probably due to bad t-stat and ECO is controlling temp (180*F)
Your switch for water heater...that is not Atwood so must be rv mfg. set up.
Regardless it should be a DC switch using 12V DC power because Atwood is set up that way (since 2004)...that is how they can use just one set of t-stats for both electric & propane operation
NO electric element can NOT be accessed from outside.
It is installed in the back of tank accessed from inside rv.
Tripped AC circuit breaker, blown DC fuse for control, bad DC relay, electric element burnt out.
IF water is very hot........normal t-stat is probably not opening.
But that depends on your definition of very hot.
Remember...t-stat is set for 140*F so straight water from hot side of faucet will be very hot......should be tempered with cold for use.
But if water is almost steaming coming out of faucet then it is probably due to bad t-stat and ECO is controlling temp (180*F)
Your switch for water heater...that is not Atwood so must be rv mfg. set up.
Regardless it should be a DC switch using 12V DC power because Atwood is set up that way (since 2004)...that is how they can use just one set of t-stats for both electric & propane operation
