12v and 110v and techquestions

You can't tell a Heinz pickle nothing.

You best do some more research
Several members have the triplite 1250 inverter
It weighs 22# has a big copper transformer in it and will do 2500w for 10 seconds and 1875 watts for 60 minutes
It is designed for heavy inductive loads motors etc.. and oh yes they make bigger ones
This is not your typical 3# voltage chopper

We don't care if you finance it or have cash, we don't care if you travel or stay put, you just keep Changing the requirements and stated use

If you really want to go out to some high altitude off grid place
You would be better served joining a forum of such people
Not asking RV'rs

And please explain to me where there is a 9000 ft high desert in the USA
I am unaware of this place

You don't have to take our advice, but why ask for it, if your not going to use, if you seeking approval For everything you say, or all your ideas, you came to the wrong place

I'm just responding to your criticisms.

Sq ft on the roof, number of pannels, skylights, inverter size, battery voltage a home.

You do realize that any inverter I add will be new to the unit, same with the solar system, same with the batteries. So any wiring or any setup will be added. Close looped or tied in it makes no difference. What is an issue is using products within thier design capacity. Using a 1200w inverter to run a microwave just isn't my cup of tea. Using components in systems in general that are not designed to handle the load is not something I want to get into. It makes me liable for anything that could happen, whether or not some substandard equipment was to actually blame or not.

Some people on this thread have been very helpful, making components suggestions, telling me to plan big because it's hard to upgrade again after you install a controller or start your setup.

I admit I don't know AC or renewables like solar very well. I'd like to think I have DC down. I've only had a bit of EM in college, and only like 3-4 classes dedicated to 12v systems, and only a few months devoted to vAC. But I came here to find out about what's needed to bring about a safe and proper system. I wouldn't have thought about the surge protector, and I would have probably been chasing the wrong style of all in one charger/inverter/mppt, for a but longer than I did. For whatever reason initially I was thinking I should have a 3000w inverter, I've knocked that back to 2000w (I did find an aims inverter with a decent pass through for ac). I'm still flopping in my mind about the 12 vs 24, but 200amps is much easier to do than 300amp was. The midnite sun mppt controller on either voltage will likely do more than any output the pannels can make.

The sky lights Im still bothered by, and asked the vendor about them, if it would be possible to have the factory not cut them into the roof. If they were more substantial and less temporary looking I might let them slide. It's a cheap trailer, it has some cheap features, I think the skylights are taking most of my focus because I It's one of my few gripes about it.

The rest of my gripes are about par for the course on the small trailer side, but this one despite It's skylights was the most pleasing to me amenity and feature wise for that weight class.

The closet thing to high desert 9000 ft
Is Bryce canyon Utah, and it's quit a bit lower than 9000 ft
9000 ft I'd going to be mountains unless your on a Peruvian plateau
And you have to climb mountains to be get there
Every thing you say seems to go off tangent

It's a high desert, snowfall is minimal, and what does fall is blown off of roofs and cars, sure there are the occasional wet snows, but very rare.

As far as a house goes, I'd much rather use insulated concrete forms for a foundation, with 2x6 for the walls. The extra ~2" gives a lot more room for insulation. I wouldn't want skylights in my home either... The really add to convection losses in the winter, and the r value would be much less than a wall. Going this way over an earthen home you can avoid all the problems with moisture and mold. It's very hard to seal out moisture in subterarainian homes. The forms allow a barrier on both sides of the concrete, while adding to the r value.

As far as the trailer goes, the r14 insulation all around and the fact that I planned on heating, sealing and insulating the underpinnings. I'm not really bothered by seasonal climates.

Also, it's not a vent, it's just a fixed piece of plastic over a hole in the roof. There are two skylights and a vent, I just don't care for the skylights.

CheeseEater88 wrote:
I don't plan on doing anything with the vent, it's a clear acrylic vent and it can easily act as a skylight. The skylight in the kitchen is rather large and to me unnecessary

Replacing a clear cover with (very common) opaque gray-blue is easy. Can't say about "large", don't know your RV model, my impression has been that vents are mostly standard 14".

Few people seem to get solar (size) right the first time because few are doing a proper energy audit before. That's why - go big. Install 30-50% more than you "think" you need. This is a better assurance of doing it right than energy audit, because it's not easy to do energy audit right - you have to make notes of battery charge and compare this against estimated solar harvest for your area on different days at different times of the year, aiming to harvest enough during the worst and longest spell of bad weather.

This is - if one of top priorities is to minimize or eliminate the use of generator. If generator use is a "no problem", or if this is a truck camper driven frequently, or if periods of offgrid stay are short, then audit requirements become lax and consequences of making a mistake are less serious.

Another reason why people can't get solar right the first time is that they are stingy, trying to save a few bucks on smaller arrays and cheaper controllers. It's a permanent install that you will have to live with for many years. Adding panels to PWM install is a pain. Upgrading PWM beyond 400-500W is a pain. Upgrading PWM to MPPT and adding more wattage is more pain yet.

9000ft with possible snow? Not my cap of tea. Like Mr Wiz said, low temps and snow cover will affect your solar a lot. And so will UV.

If you plan on a permanent location year round at 9000 ft
Then you need to start over
Build an earth insulated home lots of double pane skylights
Solar will be useless much of time covered in snow
Lithium is useless unless heated to keep them warm, they can't be charged when cold
A trailer at 9000 ft in the winter , everything will freeze up

I don't plan on doing anything with the vent, it's a clear acrylic vent and it can easily act as a skylight. The skylight in the kitchen is rather large and to me unnecessary, I plan on staying at high elevations(9000ft+), where 30mph+ winds are common place, the UV from the sun will likely rot the tires and the sky lights in <5 years . I couldn't discern what material it actually was, it looked like PET at first glance, very pliable very thin. I'm not saying they won't hold up to the wind, just that I rather not hear it flap, I don't need it, and its possible that it may leak in after some years years.
If it's any consolation, I don't like sun roofs on cars either.

Few seem to get solar right the first time but rather their solar evolves. Unfortunately it's often added on rather than starting from scratch. Maybe you'll get it right but maybe not.

Besides your research install a battery monitor when you first buy the trailer. This will allow you to accurately determine battery and charging usage. Nothing will beat real experience.

I don't understand your roof vent concern. You can always remove them and fill with insulation etc. And I don't understand your wind concerns. Many of us have driven and been if all kinks of weather and wind w/o issues.