12v and 110v and techquestions
Hello, I have just started to look for my first RV travel trailer and I had a few questions. First off I am am a bit of a tech lover. I do well with wiring diagrams and schematics, but I just ca...
Forum Discussion
Well, first: 120 volt wiring in an RV is essentally same as in a house. there may be 1,2 or 3 differences depending on the RV, I will list them
1: (All RVs) the neutral and ground are NOT bonded in the main power distribution box as they are in a house.. in fact that is the biggie.
2: IF your RV includes a Generator some kind of Transfer system, there are three common ones, "Poor man's" (An outlet hooked to the generator you PHYSICALLY transfer the plug to.. From a technical standpoint this is the best believe it or not, lowest failure rate, most reliable... But from a practical standpoint,, What are the odds of shore power failing when it is bright and sunny out... No, more like a driving rain with high winds. See note after 3.
3: Inverter or inverter/charger with or with out pass through.
Now if you go with the Inverter/Charger with pass through.. Think comnputer UPS only bigger and badder and you have the idea perfectly.
NOTE: some of the Automatic Transfer Switches (alternativfe to the manual) are designed to handle Shore/Generator/inverter,, Some like mine, just Shore/Generator.
I can help you with simple drawings (ASCII stuff) if you need on an inverter, it is an option.
On the 12 volt side of life....
12 volt devices in the RV are many,, Most all lights,, Control power for Air Conditioners, Fridge and water heater, Fans, Water pump, Furnace, If you have slides or power jacks they are 12 volt. As much as possible they use 12 volt.
Can you convert to 24,26 or 48,, IN theory yes but in practice it would not be practical.. Some things you can just drop a resistor in the line, but that is very power wasting, or you can use a switching power supply (BUCK/Boost device) I have some for 20 bucks or less that will handle most Circuits (one per circuit) Lights you can get different bulbs.. But the water pump draws as much as 7-10 amps.. The furnace as much as 20.. Those are going to be expensive to convert. Better to stick with 12 volts for the 12 volt side of life.
1: (All RVs) the neutral and ground are NOT bonded in the main power distribution box as they are in a house.. in fact that is the biggie.
2: IF your RV includes a Generator some kind of Transfer system, there are three common ones, "Poor man's" (An outlet hooked to the generator you PHYSICALLY transfer the plug to.. From a technical standpoint this is the best believe it or not, lowest failure rate, most reliable... But from a practical standpoint,, What are the odds of shore power failing when it is bright and sunny out... No, more like a driving rain with high winds. See note after 3.
3: Inverter or inverter/charger with or with out pass through.
Now if you go with the Inverter/Charger with pass through.. Think comnputer UPS only bigger and badder and you have the idea perfectly.
NOTE: some of the Automatic Transfer Switches (alternativfe to the manual) are designed to handle Shore/Generator/inverter,, Some like mine, just Shore/Generator.
I can help you with simple drawings (ASCII stuff) if you need on an inverter, it is an option.
On the 12 volt side of life....
12 volt devices in the RV are many,, Most all lights,, Control power for Air Conditioners, Fridge and water heater, Fans, Water pump, Furnace, If you have slides or power jacks they are 12 volt. As much as possible they use 12 volt.
Can you convert to 24,26 or 48,, IN theory yes but in practice it would not be practical.. Some things you can just drop a resistor in the line, but that is very power wasting, or you can use a switching power supply (BUCK/Boost device) I have some for 20 bucks or less that will handle most Circuits (one per circuit) Lights you can get different bulbs.. But the water pump draws as much as 7-10 amps.. The furnace as much as 20.. Those are going to be expensive to convert. Better to stick with 12 volts for the 12 volt side of life.
