Hi allFirst post here. I have a 05 pilgram TT new to me. To my surprise there is no auxiliary power (aka lighter socket) I was planning on tieing a socket into a nearby light . Is there any issues that will arise by doing this?I did this once in a old previous TT I had and every time I started the generator it would blow the fuse in my cell phone charger. When I measured the voltage in the light with generator running the light spiked to 13.xx volts. 12.xx just on battery. I'm not sure if something was wrong with the converter in that unit. So the question here is how do I avoid this "spike" in the new trailer? Would a regulator or something be needed to complete this project?Thx Keith

When I got my Starcraft OFF-ROAD POPUP trailer new in 2008 it only had two 120VAC circuit breaker zones and four 12V Fuse zones. All of the multiple 12VDC zones were all behind the simple power center all twisted together into the four 12V fuse zones using those large YELLOW twist connectors... What a rats nest of wiring haha...First thing I did was get rid of all of that by installing a WFCo Power Distribution center that had five large 120VAC Circuit breaker slots and eleven 12VDC Fuses zones. It was pretty easy to hookup as all of the wiring already came to the same area...Now when I want to add something like a Battery charging station etc it is so easy to tap into one of the 12V zones at the Power Distribution area. Used to have some spare zones but now they are all filled up. Always finding a need to hook up something... Google image...As you want to add more zones you can use these Blue Sea sub panels...Google image...Then every thing is properly fuse protected and no RATS NEST of wiring...I also like to use the covered 12VDC two conductors called BOAT CABLE.Something like this drawing of my WFCO Power distribution Panel...Roy's imageThis is what I do at any rate haha... Makes like much easier hehe... Time for me to start thinking solar panels and wiring...Roy Ken

When you plug into 120v AC the camper automatically switches over to the Converter power as a source of DC, of course…The converter will put out 13.xx to 14 volts, and you notice the lights get brighter as compared to the battery. The converter is charging the battery so needs to have a slightly higher voltage than the battery has. This is not a "spike" and should be perfectly fine and good with all DC appliances and devices.It is odd that you are blowing your phone charger, is your charger a really cheap one? $3? Maybe the solution is to get a better phone charger. A charger should be able to handle 13 or 14 volts easily, your truck will be making up to 14 volts through the alternator (usually in the 13.xx range as your camper converter), so the phone charger surely is made for this similar voltage.You pulled 12v positive off the light, where did you ground it? Although I have done the same and pulled 12+ from one side of the light and 12- from the other and everything played well together…You could wire your DC outlet to run off the battery only, but that is more work to run wires and fuses than just tapping into existing wiring.I would first try another charger before moving forward

Keith1000 wrote:Are there any issues that will arise by doing this?So the question here is how do I avoid this "spike" in the new trailer? Yes, you don't want to draw much power through that socket. To avoid it, either turn off your converter or don't have generator or shore when charging phone.

13.xx volts is not your issue, auto plugs run at 13.xx volts.Do you disconnect the load when starting the generator?

You can also use a USB port specifically designed for use in vehicles. Four or five dollars for a snap in outlet, a dual one rated at 1.0 and 2.1 amp for charging Apple products about 6 or 7 dollars.

12V auxilly power | Good Sam Community

ajriding
Explorer II
May 28, 2019
When you plug into 120v AC the camper automatically switches over to the Converter power as a source of DC, of course…
The converter will put out 13.xx to 14 volts, and you notice the lights get brighter as compared to the battery. The converter is charging the battery so needs to have a slightly higher voltage than the battery has. This is not a "spike" and should be perfectly fine and good with all DC appliances and devices.
It is odd that you are blowing your phone charger, is your charger a really cheap one? $3? Maybe the solution is to get a better phone charger. A charger should be able to handle 13 or 14 volts easily, your truck will be making up to 14 volts through the alternator (usually in the 13.xx range as your camper converter), so the phone charger surely is made for this similar voltage.
You pulled 12v positive off the light, where did you ground it? Although I have done the same and pulled 12+ from one side of the light and 12- from the other and everything played well together…

You could wire your DC outlet to run off the battery only, but that is more work to run wires and fuses than just tapping into existing wiring.

I would first try another charger before moving forward
RoyB
Explorer II
May 28, 2019
When I got my Starcraft OFF-ROAD POPUP trailer new in 2008 it only had two 120VAC circuit breaker zones and four 12V Fuse zones. All of the multiple 12VDC zones were all behind the simple power center all twisted together into the four 12V fuse zones using those large YELLOW twist connectors... What a rats nest of wiring haha...

First thing I did was get rid of all of that by installing a WFCo Power Distribution center that had five large 120VAC Circuit breaker slots and eleven 12VDC Fuses zones. It was pretty easy to hookup as all of the wiring already came to the same area...

Now when I want to add something like a Battery charging station etc it is so easy to tap into one of the 12V zones at the Power Distribution area. Used to have some spare zones but now they are all filled up. Always finding a need to hook up something...

Google image...

As you want to add more zones you can use these Blue Sea sub panels...

Google image...

Then every thing is properly fuse protected and no RATS NEST of wiring...

I also like to use the covered 12VDC two conductors called BOAT CABLE.

Something like this drawing of my WFCO Power distribution Panel...

Roy's image

This is what I do at any rate haha... Makes like much easier hehe... Time for me to start thinking solar panels and wiring...

Roy Ken

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