CA Traveler wrote:
No AC unless it's small. MW OK, 2 refers OK, furnace OK.
There is a device that will combine the two plugs in a standard household plug. This provides more contact area. No way to get 30A.
You'll also want to monitor the voltage with a DVM as you may have low voltage. You'll be limited running multiple items including electric HW.
Also is it a 15A plug as in one of several on a 20A CB? If so then you are even more limited. Hopefully it's a 20A plug on a dedicated 20A CB. Plus if it's GFCI then you need to check the rig and eliminate any ground faults.
x2
I would say, you might be able to run your AC, if small enough. What size AC do you have? How hot will it get? How big is your rig? You will likely not be able to run anything else 120v.
- that includes your fridge. If running AC, this could be the straw that pops the CB.
- that includes your converter, which charges your battery. I hope you can leave this on as this forces your batteries to support your 12v load, without recharging. This can only go on for a day or 2, unless you have a large battery bank.
Like CA Traveler said, get a DVM. I often suggest a Kill-A-Watt (available at Lowes), plugged in constantly. You don't have to satre at it but check it regularly and if the voltage drops below 110, watch it frequently. Voltage below 108 can cause heat damage to your appliances, such as AC. There will people that will tell you it will run fine at low voltage and I will also, but the heat damage is accumulative and will cause a premature death to appluiances. While it might be tomorrow or in a couple of years, you will pay the cost for not paying attention to low voltage.
You can also look at managing your electricity. If you have to shut off your converter during the day, and the temp is low enough at night to shut off the AC, you can then turn the converter back on and switch the fridge to auto. Now your converter model comes into play. What make and model of converter do you have? The converter, over night (8-12 hour period) will only bring your batteries to an 80-90% state. This is why a DVM is important.
You really need a complete view of your 120/12 volt systems to do this, with AC during the day.