15k BTU on 2200 watt generator

otrfun wrote:
Honda EU2200i has an OHC 121cc engine vs. the new Yamaha's EF2200iS 79cc OHV engine. IMO, an OHC engine is an inherently better, more efficient design.

What is better about an OHC design? I understand the desire for the larger displacement (more power to turn the actual generator). But I find both of your other claims to be questionable at the last.

There's nothing more efficient about an OHC over a conventional OHV design. Some of the best, most efficient, and most powerful engines on earth use OHV engines. 2 of the big 3 use OHV gasoline engines exclusively in their full size trucks, and Ford just released details on their newest engine, and guess what? It's OHV. There is nothing wrong with OHV engines. I'll admit by bias, though. I won't own ANY vehicle with an overhead cam engine. I have zero interest in them and to this day, I'm convinced they are a solution in search of a problem to solve.

Also, if 79ccs will make enough horsepower to create the rated output, I also dispute that a 121cc engine to do the same thing will be more efficient. Gasoline still burns most efficiently at 14.7:1, and an engine almost twice the size will have to burn more fuel even at the same load, unless there is some kind of vast disparity in design where friction or some other variable makes up the difference (not likely).

marcsbigfoot20b27 wrote:
. . .

Switched to EU2200i.......tested it at 115 degrees in ECO mode and it starts and runs fine.
Tested at 7600ft ~80 degrees in ECO mode started and ran just fine.

Tested my 2200 at the end of the break in, maxed at 2400 watts to electric heaters, not sure how long it would go at max.

Very impressive. Our new EU2200i is due to arrive tomorrow. Plan on powering a Dometic 10k btu a/c (among other things) with it. Hard to get specs from Dometic, so no idea what the LRA is. I'm guessing it's about 45-50 amps. Got our fingers crossed it'll reliably start this a/c with the Eco mode on without needing a Micro-Air Easy Start.

TomG2 wrote:

marcsbigfoot20b27 wrote:


Switched to EU2200i.......tested it at 115 degrees in ECO mode and it starts and runs fine.
Tested at 7600ft ~80 degrees in ECO mode started and ran just fine.

.

Good information. Have you tried it with a 15K unit like the OP has?

I don’t know anyone with a 15K but I would doubt it would work well without a MicroAES installed also.

marcsbigfoot20b27 wrote:


Switched to EU2200i.......tested it at 115 degrees in ECO mode and it starts and runs fine.
Tested at 7600ft ~80 degrees in ECO mode started and ran just fine.

.

Good information. Have you tried it with a 15K unit like the OP has?

My 13.5K with 59 LRA would not start in Phoenix @1400 ft if over 60 degrees with my EU2000i.

Added a Micro Air Easy Start, would not start reliably over 85-90 degrees.


Switched to EU2200i.......tested it at 115 degrees in ECO mode and it starts and runs fine.
Tested at 7600ft ~80 degrees in ECO mode started and ran just fine.

Tested my 2200 at the end of the break in, maxed at 2400 watts to electric heaters, not sure how long it would go at max.

otrfun wrote:


Find it quite interesting that you prefer "asking over opining, without the facts". Maybe that explains why my answer to the OP's question bothered you so much.
Have a good one.

I will have a good one, since I have not told the OP which one will suit his needs without knowing what those needs are. Happens all the time on here. Personal prejudices come before collecting information. Just maybe, he does not need a red, blue, or any generator at all? I have fooled with marginal generators. That's why I ask questions instead of pontificating.

"Yamaha has a fuel gauge. Honda doesn't. IMO, it goes downhill from there."

Good advice.

Looking at larger capacity inverter generators, they begin to approach the cost of two smaller units. Advantage of smaller units, lots less fuel, and if you don't need the extra capacity, you're only running one.

I have a 5500 open frame unit that I use at the house. If I could figure out how to get it in and out of the truck, that is one option... not one I care to use.

With this being a new venture, not sure where the wheels are going to take us, expect most travels right now to be well below where elevations will be a concern. WRT load, being a small trailer, and both fridge and hot water tank being dual source, could manage the rest of the load.

bikendan wrote:
When you say cheap Sam's Club units, don't know if you're talking about open frame contractor-style generators or inverter generators.

For example, the sportsman 2200

https://www.samsclub.com/sams/2000w-generator-sine-wave-inverter/prod21372782.ip?xid=plp_product_1_4

TomG2 wrote:

otrfun wrote:

...snip......

2. Your concern with "temperature, altitude, and other loads" is called "application" (i.e., HOW a generator will be used). I did NOT address or discuss application. Ultimately, it's up to the OP to decide which generator is best for his specific application.

Certainly hope this brings some clarity in your on-going quest to help the OP.

OK, OK. Application is not a factor. Neither is budget. Just red versus blue. I like red too. I have wasted a lot of money over the years without asking about "applications". But it is not "our" money, is it? I prefer asking over opining, without the facts.

You're reaching now. No one said application or budget are not important. As for red vs. blue, the manufacturers specs are there for everyone to see and interpret as they see fit. I'm just the messenger.

Find it quite interesting that you prefer "asking over opining, without the facts". Maybe that explains why my answer to the OP's question bothered you so much.

Have a good one.

otrfun wrote:

dom101 wrote:
That easy start sounds pretty expensive. You can pick up a hard start kit for about 15 t0 20 dollars that does exactly the same thing, maybe even better under low voltage. Just google SPP5 SPP6 SPP8 The higher the number just means more capacity of the starting capacitor

There is a massive difference in capability between a Micro-Air Easy Start and a simple hard-start kit. A hard-start kit may reduce inrush current (LRA) a few amps under the best of conditions. The MAES can reduce inrush current (LRA) 20 amps or more. Current reduction of this magnitude takes a tremendous strain off the generator upon start-up. In this comparison you definitely get what you pay for.

I know what a hard/soft start capacitor will do and have been reading up on the Micro air. Not sure if it is something I want to try. I know I can run 8k with a Honda 2000, but if I could take all strain off the Honda might be worth the money?