15k BTU on 2200 watt generator

jjrbus wrote:
Thanks for the input, have you experimented with the Micro air?

Helped some friends install a few last year. They absolutely work as advertised. They dropped the LRA (inrush current) on their a/c units at least 15-20 amps. That's a massive drop. The advantage to using a Micro Air Easy Start is not just being able to start an a/c unit, IMO it's also the reduced long-term stress on the generator. The massive, abrupt load spikes (i.e., LRA) that an a/c compressor subjects to a generator upon start-up are IMO much more harmful (cumulatively) to the generator then continuous high loads (much the same as stop/go driving is harder on a car than high-speed, highway driving). Even if your current generator starts your a/c unit, but struggles to do so, IMO a Micro Air Easy Start can still be a good investment in terms of your generator's long-term health. But, at $250-$300 a pop, they're not cheap.

SpeakEasy wrote:
As no one has yet suggested the following, I will.

Contact Micro Air directly and ask them your question. They will work with you to select a generator that will do the job. They have tested many of the smaller generators with their product, and they can advise you as to which ones can do the job and which ones cannot. They are incredibly helpful.

-Speak

Most EXCELLENT suggestion. Very pleasant conversation. He was cautious on a Honda 2000, but said a 2200 would easily run it, with a couple of lights on, but did suggest a 2nd unit would make life real easy.

otrfun wrote:

Slownsy wrote:
I often se get the Champion generater instead. But just read some reports yesterday that several said it would not run ther air conditioner, and some said depending on conditions it may and may not.
Frank

In order to make the most sense of reports like this, ideally you'd want to know the make and model RV a/c unit being discussed (to obtain the continuous current and LRA ratings). For instance, there are very efficient 13.5k BTU RV a/c units (LRA ~50 amps) made by Coleman-Mach that can be started (and run) by a smaller Honda 2000 watt inverter generator. These very efficient units are rarely used for OEM installations and must typically be special ordered. On the flipside, there are some very inefficient 13.5k BTU RV a/c units (LRA ~68 amps) that even a larger 2800-3000 watt generator can have trouble starting. You'll see inefficient units like this used quite often in OEM installations. The BTU rating of an RV a/c unit only gives you a very general idea of the power necessary
to start and run it. If you know the continuous current and LRA ratings of an RV a/c unit it can definitely give you the upper-hand in finding the best generator for the job.

As TomG2 already commented, Champion makes a large assortment of open-frame and inverter-style generators. We've owned a few Champion generators in the past---they're good generators that offer a lot of bang-for-the-buck. Just got to make sure you choose the one that's most appropriate for your application. Good luck!

Thanks for the input, have you experimented with the Micro air?

If it was a electrically efficient AC like my Atwood I would say yes your single gen could probably run it. If it's a factory dometic AC I seriously doubt it.

Either way it's best to have 3-4000 watts on hand.

Slownsy wrote:
I often se get the Champion generater instead. But just read some reports yesterday that several said it would not run ther air conditioner, and some said depending on conditions it may and may not.
Frank

In order to make the most sense of reports like this, ideally you'd want to know the make and model RV a/c unit being discussed (to obtain the continuous current and LRA ratings). For instance, there are very efficient 13.5k BTU RV a/c units (LRA ~50 amps) made by Coleman-Mach that can be started (and run) by a smaller Honda 2000 watt inverter generator. These very efficient units are rarely used for OEM installations and must typically be special ordered. On the flipside, there are some very inefficient 13.5k BTU RV a/c units (LRA ~68 amps) that even a larger 2800-3000 watt generator can have trouble starting. You'll see inefficient units like this used quite often in OEM installations. The BTU rating of an RV a/c unit only gives you a very general idea of the power necessary to start and run it. If you know the continuous current and LRA ratings of an RV a/c unit it can definitely give you the upper-hand in finding the best generator for the job.

As TomG2 already commented, Champion makes a large assortment of open-frame and inverter-style generators. We've owned a few Champion generators in the past---they're good generators that offer a lot of bang-for-the-buck. Just got to make sure you choose the one that's most appropriate for your application. Good luck!

Slownsy wrote:
I often se get the Champion generater instead. But just read some reports yesterday that several said it would not run ther air conditioner, and some said depending on conditions it may and may not.
Frank

Champion produces a full line of generators from 1,200 watts to 8,000 watts. Some of them, including my 3500/4000 watt unit will run a 15k air conditioner with ease. My eu200i Honda will not.

I often se get the Champion generater instead. But just read some reports yesterday that several said it would not run ther air conditioner, and some said depending on conditions it may and may not.
Frank

2oldman wrote:
You can likely start it, but then it's the job of keeping it running that will really work the gen hard.

X2 the genny will be begging for mercy at wide open throttle. Get a Champion 3400 for about the same money

2oldman wrote:
2 of the 2200's would easily do the job.

TomG2 wrote:
Two 2000's would easily do the job also.

Not sure what job you're referring to. But, for anyone considering the purchase of a 2nd EU2x00i (to parallel with another EU2x00i) it's important to keep in mind what you are getting and what you're not getting. Paralleling two Honda EU2x00i's will double the continuous current output, but it will not double the inrush current output. When two EU2x00i's are paralleled the inrush current only increases 10-15% (vs. one EU2xxxi). What this means, if you're powering non-inductive loads (heater, lights, etc.), then yes you're going to get twice the performance with two EU2xxxi's. However, if you're powering inductive loads (i.e., an a/c compressor, electric motor, etc.) with significant inrush requirements, you'll only get 10-15% improvement in "start" (inrush current) performance--which is not a lot.

In testing I've found two EU2000i's begin to have difficulty starting an RV a/c unit with the Eco mode on when the LRA gets much higher than 60 amps or so. With the Eco mode turned off, it does well starting a/c units with an LRA up to approx. 65 amps. Above that, it's hit or miss. One EU2000i, with the Eco mode on, can start an a/c with an LRA up to approx. 50 amps. With the Eco mode off, slightly better at 53-55 amps.

Disclaimer (to keep the generator police at bay--lol!): You may or may not find these results applicable to your specific application. Operating conditions can change these results dramatically (temperature, humidity, altitude, generator condition, a/c condition, etc.).

time2roll wrote:
What generator runs dual cams and 8,000+ rpm? Does Ferrari make generators?

I might enjoy listening to a Ferrari generator if it sounded like their cars, lol.