1997 Pace Arrow Won't Start

I agree it has to have enough current to pull in the slave relay!

Troubleshooting tip for all...

Dirty cables would not allow a booster relay to give a loud click. They chatter lime a Cuban Marimba Band.

mobilefleet wrote:
They corrode from the inside out.

We have had several cases of this over the last couple years. Enough to consider cable corrosion inside the molded connectors to be a very real suspect.

you might think your battery cables are clean. They corrode from the inside out. At nearly 20 years old, I'd replace your cables, especially from the pos. battery side to the starter, and get a new ground. Bet it'll start up

Battery terminals are very clean. Battery fully charged (checked w/meter).
I'm not sure what this other solenoid would look like. I'll try to follow the cable back from the starter.

Mexicowanderer, googled for the image. When I get back to RV this evening, I will look for this. Thanks!

Are your battery terminals clean and tight? Our 1996 Southwind, P 30 chassis, will do weird things if there is a little corrosion on the terminals. Even if they look clean there can be corrosion.

You always want to start with the simple, basic things before you try to diagnosis the electrical system. And, make sure the battery is charged.

Agreed. From experience the 10 MT solenoid above the starter draws 23 anps. Too much for the key.

Google Constant Duty 12 Volt solenoid For An Image

Normally on the GM starter it is right on the starter, but usually on larger chassis (Motorhomes), they add a slave solenoid so the ignition key fire's the juice, to the slave solenoid, and then to the factory GM Solenoid (On Starter), can be a constant duty solenoid, or a Ford style starter solenoid, on the firewall. With the solenoid on the starter and the extra heat on the larger chassis it would minimize the voltage drop going directly from key switch to GM solenoid. Hope this helps?