Matt_Colie wrote:
Steam,
I worked for years as a ship's electrician and a lot of what you wrote makes no sense..
Did you actually measure ~220V anyplace? Or is this just an assumption based on what you saw in the panel.
An RV-30 receptacle should have: A Ground, A Neutral, and a Hot terminal. If the breaker it is on has a connection to the neutral, then I would expect it to also have a test and reset buttons because it is a GFCI. Many of the older GFCI were in a double breaker body.
I suspect you have other problems you have not yet located. I suggest that you drop your shore power connection and open the MH AC distribution panel and check every screw for tightness and then do some checking inside there.
The house lights on every RV I have known run from the house battery bank. Again, check fuses and connections there before you do anything else.
I did a lot of this stuff before the depression hit. I have seen a lot of terminals come loose on their own. RVs are worse than boats for this.
Matt
I agree with this reply, but I am wondering if the the OP has 50A service and not 30A. If it was 50A service and he removed half of it, I would think that half of his service would be gone. Don't know anything about his unit. Might help if we did.
The house connection he described sounds like an ungrounded 220V dryer connection, (2 Hots and a Ground). I know that the plugs and receptacles are different, but people do make their own adapters.
I agree that he probably has some DC fuses blown and maybe some AC breakers tripped. JMO
