We have finished one season in our camper. We ran into problems on 2 trips with the refrigerator not keeping the temperature in the "safe zone". We've had 2 trips to the dealer. The first trip, they were unable to duplicate the problem and all diagnostics checked out. I discovered that the problem is related to running the air conditioner. On trips when we ran the air we had problems. I was able to replicate the problem at home. The problem can be replicated whether the frig is running on electric or gas. Trip number 2 to the dealer was recently and outside temperatures have dropped. They are not able to replicate even in their shop. They've talked to the manufacturer and claim they've never had a problem like this. In talking with the local service technician, he suspects that something with the air conditioner is altering the flow of air across the refrigerator coils and I tend to agree with that. Unfortunately, they have no idea what to do about it.Has anyone else run into refrigerator problems related to holding temperature with this camper?My next step is to talk with the manufacturer directly, but the local service technician indicated that there isn't much they can do unless they can replicate the problem. That may mean waiting until May and I'd like to get this fixed "off season" if possible. Any ideas on how to approach this?

Where the two trips to the same RV park?

We have an AR-One with a Norcold refrigerator and have had a similar problem, but only when the temperature was pushing 100 degrees for a week. Other than that, if I don't adjust the thermostat on the fridge, it can freeze everything. BTW, I don't know how you're getting the temperature, but every time you open the fridge it warms it up and it has a hard time getting the temperature back down. These refrigerators are not the most efficient appliances. I put a wireless transmitter in the fridge and use an indoor/outdoor thermometer to monitor temps.

I assume you have a Norcold refer as that is what they show on the website.1. The Pics show a residential type AC mounted at the top roof line? Is this how yours is mounted? If so, the AC would have NOTHING to do with the refer cooling2. IF the refer has the 2 sidewall vents(upper and Lower), This type install really requires an additional 12 volt exhaust fan blowing OUT the top access vent/door. This gets the hot convection air out faster and will allow cooling better3. The design of the rear cabinet the refer is in is critical on these type 1 door refers. The rear must be sealed and designed so the rear air flows smoothly from bottom out the top. No gaps or areas where the hot air can stop. 4. What were the outside temps when you had the cooling problem? 5. You WERE level? Doug

More info:1. The trips were actually 3 different RV parks. I don't suspect any sort of electrical issue since I was able to recreate the problem running on electric and gas. 2. The first trip was pushing 100 degrees. There was no recovery overnight when the outdoor temperatures dropped. The 2nd trip was in the low 90's. The refrig temp was around 65 degrees and maybe dropped to 60 overnight. I like the idea of the wireless thermometer though.3. On other trips, which we were not running the air conditioning, I have been able to accidentally freeze things in the normal refrig section. I really don't think the problem is with the actual refrigerator. 4. Once the refrigerator became useless, there was minimal opening of the door and just to check the temp. We had one of these types of refrigerators in our pop up and are use to the lesser performance than a normal house refrig.5. It is a Norcold.6. The AC looks to me as you describe. A "window unit" mounted mostly inside. I think the air intake is from the back of the unit which would be the side of the camper. There is some sort of vent above the AC on the roof. From looking at the AC manual, it looks like the exhaust vents are onthe side of the unit. I assume that is funneled out the top. It is mounted above the refrigerator. Inside the camper, there is a countertop mounted on top of the refrigerator, then about 6 inches of space, then the AC unit which uses the rest of the space up to the ceiling.7. The refer does have 2 sidewall vents. The 1st trip when this failed (2 weeks; 1000 miles from home), I called the service technician. He suggested purchasing a small desk fan and mounting it in that space, blowing air up across the fins. It maybe made a 2 degree difference. 8. I was level. That should have been the first question. . .or the first item I mentioned.

After I suspected the AC somehow affecting this, I did some experimenting with this at my house. I did not have the more extreme heat situation causing it to go way beyond the "safe zone", but did notice consistent changes when turning the AC on to off and vice versa even at the cool outside temperatures we were experiencing. These are running on electric, but I saw very similar results running on gas. I kept the refer control dial at the same position(4). Day Time Air Cond Refrig Inside Outside9/9 7:00pm Off-->On 40° 80° 74°9/9 10:30pm On 46° 67° 70°9/10 8:00am On-->Off 42° 61° 62°9/10 6:00pm Off->On 30° 71° 65°9/10 8:00pm On 38° 67° 64°9/10 10:30pm On 40° 63° 65°9/11 8:00am On-->Off 40° 61° 63°9/11 5:00pm Off 30° 73° 69°The technician claimed their service area is at about 70° and did not see the results I saw.

2014 Starcraft AR-One 18FB Refrigerator Problem

13 Replies

Chris_Bryant
Explorer II
Nov 18, 2015
I think some time with a smoke generator might find the problem.
j-d
Explorer II
Nov 18, 2015
As are a few others, I wonder IF:

1. The way the fridge is installed is compromising its air flow over those cooling unit coils on its back

2. It needs a fan because of the side wall vent and lacks one or not working

3. Running the A/C is sucking the cold out through the door gasket, or interfering with air flow in 1. or forcing air "backwards" into the air flow area.
wasatchmtnatvr
Explorer
Nov 18, 2015
Check for 100% separation of refer exterior venting and wall mounted window style air conditioner cavity. Your description puts it above refer. I think it is compromised somehow.
LeifheitB
Explorer
Nov 17, 2015
For the tests I had it set at 4. Once I saw the results I didn't bother varying the thermostat. When we first experienced the problems I tried all different settings.
jfkmk
Explorer
Nov 16, 2015
LeifheitB wrote:

jfkmk(John), are you experiencing a similar problem?

The only time I've really had a problem with the fridge is camping when it's hot out, I'm talking mid 90s and up. Otherwise I typically have to adjust the thermostat. When you conducted your tests, did you have the fridge adjusted as cold as possible?

One thing we do that may help is freeze as much as possible before a trip. We defrost our meals (at least the meat) in the fridge as we go. I think that helps the overall temperature in the fridge as well.
LeifheitB
Explorer
Nov 16, 2015
Jerryjay11, thanks for the thoughts. The camper is still with the dealer and given the outdoor temps are falling in my area and I'm not sure I will be able to recreate the conditions until next spring. I will definitely give this a try if the dealer/manufacture don't come up with a solution.

jfkmk(John), are you experiencing a similar problem?
jerryjay11
Explorer
Nov 14, 2015
Before you judge this is crazy...

Try testing with your windows or door open for one night. There is a good chance that your rig is tightly sealed and the volume of air that a residential window AC can move is thus pulling air from your refrigerator either through the refrigerator door seals or the vacuum break in the doors. You've eliminated power issues and it occurs with the AC running so it can only mean airflow issues. It can also be pulling air from outside the refrigerator, around the sides and into your camper.

I am a retired HVAC technician and have experienced similar in a mobile home when the furnace blower came on the burner flame would dye and smoke entered the home from the furnace. Window AC's just have a lot of air flow volume.

Let me know if this helps.
jfkmk
Explorer
Nov 14, 2015
Our AR-One has the same exact setup. I never removed the rear vents, but now I'm curious. If you do find some solution, please post it, as I'll be following this thread.
Thanks!
John
LeifheitB
Explorer
Nov 14, 2015
After I suspected the AC somehow affecting this, I did some experimenting with this at my house. I did not have the more extreme heat situation causing it to go way beyond the "safe zone", but did notice consistent changes when turning the AC on to off and vice versa even at the cool outside temperatures we were experiencing. These are running on electric, but I saw very similar results running on gas. I kept the refer control dial at the same position(4).

Day Time Air Cond Refrig Inside Outside
9/9 7:00pm Off-->On 40° 80° 74°
9/9 10:30pm On 46° 67° 70°
9/10 8:00am On-->Off 42° 61° 62°
9/10 6:00pm Off->On 30° 71° 65°
9/10 8:00pm On 38° 67° 64°
9/10 10:30pm On 40° 63° 65°
9/11 8:00am On-->Off 40° 61° 63°
9/11 5:00pm Off 30° 73° 69°

The technician claimed their service area is at about 70° and did not see the results I saw.
LeifheitB
Explorer
Nov 14, 2015
More info:
1. The trips were actually 3 different RV parks. I don't suspect any sort of electrical issue since I was able to recreate the problem running on electric and gas.
2. The first trip was pushing 100 degrees. There was no recovery overnight when the outdoor temperatures dropped. The 2nd trip was in the low 90's. The refrig temp was around 65 degrees and maybe dropped to 60 overnight. I like the idea of the wireless thermometer though.
3. On other trips, which we were not running the air conditioning, I have been able to accidentally freeze things in the normal refrig section. I really don't think the problem is with the actual refrigerator.
4. Once the refrigerator became useless, there was minimal opening of the door and just to check the temp. We had one of these types of refrigerators in our pop up and are use to the lesser performance than a normal house refrig.
5. It is a Norcold.
6. The AC looks to me as you describe. A "window unit" mounted mostly inside. I think the air intake is from the back of the unit which would be the side of the camper. There is some sort of vent above the AC on the roof. From looking at the AC manual, it looks like the exhaust vents are onthe side of the unit. I assume that is funneled out the top. It is mounted above the refrigerator. Inside the camper, there is a countertop mounted on top of the refrigerator, then about 6 inches of space, then the AC unit which uses the rest of the space up to the ceiling.
7. The refer does have 2 sidewall vents. The 1st trip when this failed (2 weeks; 1000 miles from home), I called the service technician. He suggested purchasing a small desk fan and mounting it in that space, blowing air up across the fins. It maybe made a 2 degree difference.
8. I was level. That should have been the first question. . .or the first item I mentioned.