220v in 110v system

time2roll wrote:
I can't believe 'accidentally' is the word. More like 'with great effort'.

Done is done. Test everything 120v and replace as needed.

I can think of a good holiday gift this year:
http://www.progressiveindustries.net/rv-power--surge-hardwired

It appears I've been around longer than you folks.

I have seen 220 volt dryer outlets that had a round "Neutral" (not safety ground) Just like the TT-30 and which would accept a TT-30 plug.. Last time was my first year full timing.. Of course by the time I actually SAW the outlet.. I already knew it was 240 volt.. But then as they say I had a clue (I saw the circuit breaker before I found the outlet.. Ganged 60 amp was what they call a CLUE)

Why do people have 240/230/220V dryer plugs on the outside of their houses?

Thank you! I'll start with the batteries, then the converter, and see where it takes me from there.

kmack wrote:
- PD9140A power converter installed in MH
- output voltage from converter (while hooked into house batteries) is showing 8.6V. But that is understandable since batteries are low.

You need a solid 12v system with 13.2+ volts before you continue to diagnose the rest. Many of the controls such as thermostat run on 12 volt power.

Well, my issue isn't with the 30-amp plug attached to my RV, or the 30-amp receptacle it was plugged into. I've already dealt with that.

Any ideas on my issues going forward?

Mandatory dress code for know-it-all Junior Assistant Amateur Electricians.....

Old-Biscuit wrote:

naturist wrote:

Old-Biscuit wrote:

Seeing as 200V Dryer receptacle is different then the 30A plug on RV power cord......HOW DID THEY GET IT PLUGGED IN :H (Jammed it/forced it!)

You will note that it is only necessary to get the two flat blades shoved in far enough to make contact, and you'll see 240 volts across your RV's systems.

Oh I am quite aware of the 'get a bigger hammer' method.

Was just pointing out to OP that in-laws didn't plug in quite 'accidentally'...it took some effort

That special tool/adapter is called a BFH :R

MEX, NEMA only a few years ago formally recognized the TT-30 and had resisted for years.

A perfectly good 30a 120v straight blade and twist-lock had long since been available but somehow RVs had their own 30a plug. I would agree all parks should be mandated to change and require RVs to use an adapter until they update their vehicles.

Fortunately it is only equipment damage when a TT-30 is forced into a 10-30 outlet. At least the 10-30 is being phased out for the common dryer.

The RV plug and socket serves as an excellent example of why the folks who create the National Electric Code and work with the National Electric Manufacturer's Association (NEMA) should be discredited, then fired.

Yep, I'm being cranky again. Because there is absolutely no reason for this charade of "intelligent design". The existing 30-amp service for RV's is in a word s-t-u-p-i-d

A dedicated design has been around for decades. It offers far superior connectivity, resistance to pull-out and deterioration...



A mandatory changeover to this far safer design is not possible. Why? Because to do so, would imply the regulatory body administration is cursed with triple digit intelligence.

GROWL SNAP

Reviving old thread...

Similar situation. See other thread

Basically, 30 amp RV plugged wired to both legs (220V).

TV fried, Micro fried, A/C and fridge were still working immediately after event. Both ran fine for 3 days after, but haven't used RV since then (April 2017).

Pulled RV to the house this past weekend to replace TV and microwave. I have a 110V outlet I plug into at the house that is on a 30 amp panel breaker.

A/c still running fine on first day. Started fridge to make sure it was running, but the panel breaker would trip. So I left the fridge off while replacing appliances.

Monday evening, I left the A/C running just to keep the inside cool (thank you Texas weather...). Tuesday morning, as I was headed to work, I noticed the A/C fan was not running. House panel breaker in garage was not tripped. A/C breaker in MH was tripped. I turned everything off, reset A/C breaker, let it all sit for a couple minutes, then tried to turn the A/C back on. Fan motor was working, but compressor would not start. Turned everything back off, then went to work.

So, what I've determined after getting back home...

- A/C fan motor will run, but compressor will not start, so A/C does not cool.
- Fridge will cool on gas, and will cool on 110V.
- 120V into all MH breakers, all outlets in MH are working when connected to shore power.
- New microwave is working
- new TV is working
- House batteries (2 batts, 6V ea) are dying, but they were starting to go before the incident: 1 is at 4.5V, the other is at 6.3V
- PD9140A power converter installed in MH
- output voltage from converter (while hooked into house batteries) is showing 8.6V. But that is understandable since batteries are low.

I will check status of converter operation once I get home tonight. On the MH breaker panel, I do not see signs of any burnt wires. I'm afraid my A/C is finally dead, even though it was working fine months ago and in recent days.

Question is, in this situation (220V to a 110V system), do things really work fine for awhile, and then start dying randomly? Is there something else I should look for to correct/prevent other issues?

I am mechanically competent and I'm not scared of troubleshooting things. Electricity and I don't always get along, but I really need to get this fixed.

Just looking for advice on all of what I may be facing...