24 volt MaxxAir or Fantastic Fan?

It just occurred to me that if I had gone 12v I would need a second solar charge controller at $600.

My charge controller is limited to 60 amps.

RoyB wrote:

2oldman wrote:

RoyB wrote:
I can't think of a good reason to have anything that works on 24V DC haha.

Inverter, when you do a lot of high-amp draws.

That would reduce battery current for sure... Don't know if that would off-set the cost for a 24VDC system or not... Obviously I am not into SOLAR YET hehe...

Roy Ken

Roy,

A 24 volt house battery system is not any more expensive than 12 volt for systems of comparable capacity.

I am running 4 - L16 batteries wired in series for a 24v 400a/h bank. If I had elected to go 12v and maintain the same capacity I would need the same 4 - L-16's but they would be wired as 2 parallel strings of 2 in series (2S2P) for a 12v 800a/h bank.

The cost of wiring will be less on the 24v system as you can use smaller wire.

PNW_Steve wrote:
I am hoping to avoid a 24v-12v converter. They draw a bit of power even with no load on the output.

With 1800w of solar and that battery bank? You wouldn't even notice.

2oldman wrote:

PNW_Steve wrote:
I have managed to find solutions to most of my DC loads that will run on 24v and would like to keep it that way :)

Not sure how you've handled the lighting or the refer.. I have a 48v system and use a DC/DC converter for 12v. One and done.

I am hoping to avoid a 24v-12v converter. They draw a bit of power even with no load on the output.

My lighting is LED. I use pairs of 12v lights wired in series.

My refrigerator is a 10.7 cu.ft. apartment refrigerator. I have disabled the auto defrost to conserve power when boondocking. I can turn it back on when we are on shore power.

Yachting world uses a lot of 24v gear.

2oldman wrote:

RoyB wrote:
I can't think of a good reason to have anything that works on 24V DC haha.

Inverter, when you do a lot of high-amp draws.

That would reduce battery current for sure... Don't know if that would off-set the cost for a 24VDC system or not... Obviously I am not into SOLAR YET hehe...

Roy Ken

RoyB wrote:
I can't think of a good reason to have anything that works on 24V DC haha.

Inverter, when you do a lot of high-amp draws.

PNW_Steve wrote:
I have managed to find solutions to most of my DC loads that will run on 24v and would like to keep it that way :)

Not sure how you've handled the lighting or the refer.. I have a 48v system and use a DC/DC converter for 12v. One and done.

I never found decent 24 volt fans for Quicksilver. I found junk priced at 3 times as much as their 12 volt counterparts. :(

Fully enclosed cast aluminum case voltage reducers are pretty stout.

Twist the output wires to greatly reduce EMI

Old fashioned 6052 type headlight bulbs were priced at @35.00 each. I feel for you...

I really have great air flow at night using my roof mounted 12V Fantastic Fan.

My POPUP trailer has 9x12 Tarps over both tent bed ends so I can leave the window flaps OPEN on the inside and the 12V roof fan pulls in cool night air and not have to worry about closing the window flaps during rain periods... The tarps have a lot of paths around the bottom and sides for outside air flow to work... Of course if it gets to raining real hard then I have to close the fantastic fan cover... I can usually adjust the cover opening to not let rain water come into the fan...


Roy's image

I can't think of a good reason to have anything that works on 24V DC haha...

I guess Military Surplus vehicles all work on 24VDC so there is probably a lot of surplus available using 24VDC items...

We camp almost 90% of the time off-grid and my roof mounted air conditioner almost never gets used. I really should remove it and mount some solar panels on my POPUP roof.

ADDED NOTE: OOPS... looks like I was typing up my response to your post and missed your reason for having 24VDC needs... makes perfect sense to me haha...

Roy Ken