30A or 40A controller?

jrnymn7 wrote:
I'm not sure I'm all that keen on having to rely on MSview and my laptop to monitor and adjust my solar system. A remote display seems much simpler and possibly more practical.

Once set you may not need to look for a couple years at least.
Just watch your voltmeter that all is operating as you expect.

List of program options: All voltages set to 2 decimal places.

Absorption voltage
Float voltage (or disable float)
Float-low battery threshhold
Float-cancel threshhold
Time before float
Time before float-low battery
Time to exit float
Equalize voltage (or disable equalize)
Days between equalize
Equalize duration
Equalize timeout

Temperature compensation (v/degree)
Battery voltage disconnect
Battery voltage reconnect
Max regulation voltage limit
Max temp. comp. limit
Min temp. comp. limit

Some load control settings and load timer control settings.

LED indicator transition voltage settings.



What else could be needed? This you can set and about forget.

Dollar for dollar, I think the Tracer BN series is a good value. Not knocking Morningstar... they're the real deal, for sure. But for my little 280w system, I think the Tracer 30a is a good choice. And I can still add another 100w of portable to it, next fall.

??? On that note, is there any real issue with panel specs not matching near perfectly??? My initial thought is NO, seeing as panel voltages fluctuate throughout the day, anyway... especially in partly shaded scenarios.

jrnymn7 wrote:
I'm not sure I'm all that keen on having to rely on MSview and my laptop to monitor and adjust my solar system. A remote display seems much simpler and possibly more practical.

I found this to be somewhat true. I have a Victron that does the monitoring.

As someone else noted, the better part of having programmable setpoints is that once they are tailored to the correct values, there's no need to mess with them and all of the values are possible. The page you linked to above (pg45) of the manual depicts setpoints established by the jumpers on the controller. When using MSView and the wire interface, the jumpers are changed to allow variability. It's possible to set voltages, durations, and events like equalization within MSView.

Someday, I may be wealthy enough to have individual and a Master touch pad for all of the distribution system. Until then, I look at the Victron, sometimes press a button, and slog through my tedious days of RV'ing.:B Sometimes, just for relaxation, I flip a switch and watch the analog meter.

I think this is the remote display for the SS-15L ?

RM-1 Remote

It's a hundred bucks more than the Tracer's remote, and it doesn't appear to have set-point adjustment capabilities.

RM-1 Manual

I will have both for my TS-MPPT-60. Once set up the remote display will be the easy way to check but the laptop will provide tracking and log keeping too.

I'm not sure I'm all that keen on having to rely on MSview and my laptop to monitor and adjust my solar system. A remote display seems much simpler and possibly more practical.

A 230w on the SS-15 is now considered over paneling, not clipping. lol It is probably the least expensive way to get all of the features while running a 230w panel. With MSView you wouldn't need a remote display.

The Eco-worthy 20a wouldn't clip but has limitations in Voc and features. That said it is still the least expensive functional MPPT controller out there. (well tested too)

A while back someone here was using the last series of tracer MPPT controllers, a 20a version I believe. The accuracy of the remote display was the only issue I remember.

There are other non main stream options but as I learned more, I learned to look deeper and deeper into their specs. I usually found some oddity like it required 40v, didn't have the features or just something that took it out of the running. The more controller options there are, the more you need to understand to choose wisely. Back when I started there was the SS-15 for $200 and the Rogue 30a for $325, a year later the Eco-w 20a for $102 came out. Those options have changed.

BFL,

The SS-15 is rated at 75v max.

Some guys have the 15L with a 230w panel. It clips the amps at 15 so that is max. The Eco-Worthy 20 amper will allow more than 15 amps from that same 230w panel (when conditions are right) so you can get 16 or 17 at times.

That won't change your whole life for the better, but it is there. OTOH the Eco-W is limited in Voc input so it is borderline whether it could run two 12s in series. I wouldn't risk it, but it is reported some are getting away with it. I don't know if the 15L could run two 12s in series. (I am on limited data for looking things up right now)

Download free MSview on your computer to know what programming is available.
Just run through the program and see if it will work the way you like before you spend money.