3d printers for making stuff for the RV

StirCrazy wrote:

LittleBill wrote:
I am using petg here. that said I do have touch of warp in 3 corners, i turned the bed up a touch. hopefully it stays in place. its over half a roll of filament for it.

is that garolite?

Hairspray cured my warping on big prints.

what are you making a base for a light?

i despise glue and hairspray. I understand a lot of people use it, If it fails i will run a hotter bed. this is the first failed print, in the last 100, (also my largest)

if you look back the post with pictures, there is a link to what its for. its a base for an autoformer.

Garolite?

Yea, it sux getting half way through a large print and it starts lifting. More times than not, my experience is it only gets worse as it goes and I just waste more material hoping I can save it. I get irritated when it breaks loose and starts making spaghetti.

Even petg will warp on something that large.
Turn up bed
Turn down nozzle and fan
Slow the speed
Use a raft (that's my last resort)

A simple enclosure made from whatever's available around the house, even a quilt, will help. Put it under a table or two chairs back to back and cover it with sheets and bed spreads to create a tent if you have to. Put a space heater in there but don't get it too hot. Your driver board and power supply has their limits. Sometimes I open the top of the rear panel to vent some heat out.

LittleBill wrote:
I am using petg here. that said I do have touch of warp in 3 corners, i turned the bed up a touch. hopefully it stays in place. its over half a roll of filament for it.

is that garolite?

Hairspray cured my warping on big prints.

what are you making a base for a light?

I am using petg here. that said I do have touch of warp in 3 corners, i turned the bed up a touch. hopefully it stays in place. its over half a roll of filament for it.

is that garolite?

Use a cardboard box with a small viewing window as an enclosure. I used the box my Prusa came in until I had my enclosure built. I cut a small hole in the front to look into and another small hole on the side to shine a small flashlight into. Placing a 60w lamp inside will help keep the heat up.

This is the enclosure I built

Wish me luck boys, largest I have ever done. max .04 layer height too, .32


what I am modeling against.

I know I will be looking into spare nozzles and likely alternative filaments, both color and type.

I forgot to mention in regards to color if you are modeling, DW uses white or gray PLA and either brush paints it with acrylic or sprays with Krylon outdoor plastic furniture rattle can. I use black.

As far as nozzles, they last a Long Time unless you are using abrasive filament. A 0.6mm nozzle will speed up your print time and make a stronger part once properly dialed in.

I would think once you understand the concept of creating shapes and extruding them into 3D objects in TinkerCAD, either Fusion 360 or Onshape would move you to the next level. Fusion 360 has tons of support and seems to be layed out more user friendly.

90% of the time I approach it as a machinist. Start with a basic shape of material and start cutting away at it.

I've been doing this for 6 years and see no reason to get away from using the SD card. It just works

LittleBill wrote:
look at thinkercad, its web based, for simple part design. What printer did you get? most don't do wifi, unless for more expensive models. Its generally sd card for printing unless you go the usb route with a computer or PI.

Keep it simple for now. I am still using the SD card a year later

I did take a look at thinkercad... So far I'm getting no place fast except with it.

And of the assorted ways to connect to the printer
LAN (Cat-5/6) Wi-Fi. USB or "Sneaker net" (SD card)
The SD card is the one I would choose for this type of printer for assorted reasons so I'm glad you say they have that option.

As to what model.. Not sure I checked some "Best" sites and printers by that company are highly recommended... Hopeing this model is a good one. Will know more when it arrives.

StirCrazy wrote:

LittleBill wrote:
print is done, this thing is exceptionally clean. significantly better looking then the PETG I primarily use, no loss of threading in the hose section either.

It may even look better then the PLA I have used in the past.

some thread marks are from trying a garden hose to check the shrinkage fit.

a touch tighter, but man, it looks exceptional, just wish it didn't cost more then double the PETG.

Ignore the layer shift at the top, we had a power outage, and the printer pretty much can never recover after an outage.

you may recognize the print.

do you use an enclosure? just wondering how it was for fumes and warping and such, I was setting up for ABS but I like the idea of the UV resistance of ASA, thats why I use PETG over PLA. up here it is about 10 bucks a spool more for ASA over PETG so realy not crazy except black for some reason is twice the price.

No, but I am way above the bed temp recommended. they recommend 75-90, people say to use 105F/110, which i did. I may try to lower it in the future. 0 warp on a PEI sheet, no brim/raft. no glue, no nothing.

I have read if the print is bigger then your fist you need an enclosure.

there was a bit of a smell. I was in the room the entire time it was printing, wasn't a big deal to me.

this is a specialty filament for me. So far PETG is doing everything I need. I may need to do some engine stuff in the future, so I wanted to give it a try.

I am finding out I can print PC-CF blends with my printer as well. That stuff makes ASA look cheap. IDK if I'm going to go down that path.