Sorry I originally had this posted in travel trailer section then moved it here.I am in the process of gutting out an 18 foot travel trailert, all I have left is the shower and head. I have some electrical questions and looking for advice.I am thinking of going with 50 amp service as well. The trailer currently has a 30 amp cord running to a dead converter. I am thinking I need to add a service box then run the AC out of that on breakers . I am not sure the best way to go here but one option I guess is to go with a converter to power doc and charge batteries, then install an inverter. What I can't figure out is how to get AC to the outlets from the inverter without some sort of switching, don't wanna cause problems with two sources of AC trying to feed outlet at same time.I know on boats they make charger/inverters that handle the switching for you but the camper ones I have seen are too expensive, any suggestions? I'd like to settle on a plan so I can get this ordered.ThanksTim

I have plugged into shore power with my inverter on with no problem.I have a converter/chargwr and inverter is separate.

You need a transfer switch. Or plug the main cord into the inverter and then you are the transfer switch.

Two ways rv's are wired, this is customized for a trailer w/o a generatorShore--Main breaker box === lines from branch breakers to assorted loads.(IE: television, entainerment, Microwave, Water heater, Fridge, Converter, Otlets and air conditioners)and with an inverterShore--Main--Branch breakers to heavy loads (A/C, W/H, Fridge and optionally converter,, and ONE more breaker (big one) to the inverter/charger's AC in terminals)(shore-Main-Branch to inverter)--INVERTER---Sub panel (NOTE)--Smaller loads like TV/entairment center, Microwave, OutletsNOTE that the sub panel may be built into the inverter/converterIf you have a generator and auto transfer switch it is the same as above butGenerator to ATSShore to ATSAts to Main box as above.Inverters come in 2x2xmany for this discussion1a: inline, this type (Described above) auto transfers from Shore to inverter, both charges batteries (When shore present) and uses them (when not) it is what I have and love, very good UPS.2A: Stand alone: you need to provide manual switchign, only uses batteries, you will need independent charger/converter1B: True sine wave2B: MSWLet me give you the list of things that will not work with a true sine wave inverter:All devices needing more power than it can deliver.Now,, on the list of things that eitehr will, or may not work properly on an MSW, that of course, starts the list.And it is a very long list including some coffee pots, electric blanets, clocks and anything with a timer, NIGHT LIGHTS believe it or not.. in shore a long list.on the other hand they may work fine.. but why risk it.

With an 18' trailer, you can probably save the expense of a transfer switch by wiring in an inverter and using a multi-tap strip to run cords the short distance to the appliances. FWIW, I rewired my trailer with 50 amp service when I restored it. It is no more work than installing a 30 amp service. Prices start to rise when using a 50 amp power inlet and a 50 amp cord (they don't give those away).Good luck with your project!

I think on a 18ft. Trailer going for 50 amps is BIG over-kill. More money, more complication, and I can't think of any benefit.Unless you're planning on a large true sine wave inverter to power everything(that you don't want to pay the big bucks for a converter/inverter leads me to think you want to power electronic "stuff"), trying to get AC to all outlets is probably more trouble and expense than necessary.Everything essential is on 12V DC.I installed a heavy (10 gage, fused at the battery) 12 Volt line directly to a cig-lighter outlet near the entertainment center. When we want to watch a flick dry camping, I just plug in my 150 watt pure sine wave inverter and use it to power the TV & DVD. Many electronics will work with a MSW inverter which is even cheaper (my TV will, DVD won't). I have a 12V to double USB converter for small electronics, and 12V chargers for cell phones, and camera batteries.Doug

50 amp service, Inverter vs Converter | Good Sam Community

26 Replies

alaska_av8r
Explorer
Jan 28, 2015
My trailer does not have any panel at all, the cord just came in through the wall to the old converter, there was a mess of wires everywhere with no fuses. The AC is tied into this mess as well with no breaker box either.

bkirk I would love to have an inverter/charger combo as well but they cost more than I paid for the whole trailer, now if this was a newer 30 footer, oh yeah.
bkirkpatrick
Explorer
Jan 28, 2015
Also, that is why I like the inverter/charger combo. I can delegate how much power I actually want charging my batteries. Thus, if I am running my Honda 2000 generator, I can delegate a small amount to the batteries and a larger amount to the 12v applications so the generator is not running like a bat out of hell.
bkirkpatrick
Explorer
Jan 28, 2015
Don't let the pictures get to you. The converter is a separate unit that sits behind the fuse panel. You do not need the entire package as in the link. That is for a trailer that does not have one at all. If you are "gutting" the trailer, then have at it. If you plan on leaving the original panel, don't wast your money/effort on a completely new setup. If you have seen the converter, it is a box that sits behind the 12v panel somewhere. Just pull your old one and replace with the powermax or similar.
alaska_av8r
Explorer
Jan 28, 2015
Is the Boondocker better than this Progressive Dynamics

I see the Boondocker has a 3 yr warranty, can't find how much warranty the PD has but I like its layout a bit better.
alaska_av8r
Explorer
Jan 28, 2015
Thanks BFL and Ron, that answers a lot of questions, and I like the idea of a transfer switch....thanks guys.
BFL13
Explorer II
Jan 28, 2015
bkirkpatrick wrote:
BFL13 wrote:
The batteries get what is left out of that 45 after the other loads are taken care of.

Agreed. Thus, you should look at a larger amp converter like the PowerMax 100 Amp Converter Power Max PM3-100 because of the size of your battery bank. Thus, your batteries will get a good charge no matter how many 12v appliances you have on and are on shore power or generator power.

True but it is all in the timing. When the loads are not on, the battery gets more, so eventually it gets charged.

But the OP still needs a DC fuse panel for his DC circuits that the converter will connect to besides having battery lugs either on the fuse panel or the converter so a deck mount may not be for him. He could get the works. (PowerMax has that in a 60a version)

http://www.bestconverter.com/Boondocker-4-Stage-Power-Center-60-Amp-BPC4-60_p_552.html#.VMg6gWd0xjo

Either that or just wire each DC circuit to the batteries via a fuse for each on its positive wire and then use a deck mount converter as the combo charger and float charger on the batteries.

With the redo of the 1981 TC we just got, I am not having a converter. It now does have a 2000w inverter, two T-1275s, and can be whole house 120v on the inverter for MW, toaster, kettle, etc, while the 12v stuff is right off the batteries. I'll recharge the batteries as required with a battery charger, and Float after that at home with my Float charger. Too easy.
bkirkpatrick
Explorer
Jan 28, 2015
BFL13 wrote:
The batteries get what is left out of that 45 after the other loads are taken care of.

Agreed. Thus, you should look at a larger amp converter like the PowerMax 100 Amp Converter Power Max PM3-100 because of the size of your battery bank. Thus, your batteries will get a good charge no matter how many 12v appliances you have on and are on shore power or generator power.
Ron3rd
Explorer III
Jan 27, 2015
alaska_av8r wrote:
Thanks for the replies. Westend I read your restore thread it was a great help. Golden thanks for the link!

I have a micro, coffee pot, light, a/c (window unit) and that's about it. I think I'll stay with 30 amp service if you folks think that will be sufficient, I know on my boat when the a/c unit compressed cycles on it is apps a 20 amp draw initially, I just did not want to be tripping breakers if the campers a/c was on and I used another item.

I am planning on a 45 amp converter and will run inverter to a dedicated outlet or two. I will have a portable generator available for those times I'm away from shore power. I think that will be the simplest way to handle it unless I am missing something.

Stick with 30 amp, 50 amp is commonly seen on big rigs with 2 ACs. You can also plug your 30 amp shore cord into the inverter, a number of us have it set up that way, or go with the automatic transfer switch.
BFL13
Explorer II
Jan 27, 2015
You might be happier with a converter to be your main charger and your float charger, sounds like. It can also run the DC 12v stuff with no batteries at all.

Yes the 45a is what a 45amper can do in total. The batteries get what is left out of that 45 after the other loads are taken care of.

It just a money and convenience thing. A float charger is maybe $30 and a bigger charger is maybe $70. Or you can get a converter for say $130 or so that does both jobs.

If you already have a battery charger lying around, then you can just use that and get more value from it. Whatever works! :)
alaska_av8r
Explorer
Jan 27, 2015
Bkirk now I am confused, if a converter has a 45 amp rating, wouldn't that also be the load it could support? I.E. If I didn't have batteries in the trailer, couldn't it support a 45 amp load?

BFL I don't want to worry about having to hook up a charger at home or at any other time, so wouldn't a converter take care of that. The camper will likely sit at deer camp hooked to shore power for quite a while, few months. Then be stored until turkey season where it will be more mobile.

The generator does not have DC charging capacity, so I would have to have a battery charger anyway or converter.

This is what I am looking at converter

tim

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50 amp service, Inverter vs Converter

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